front wheel problem

[Marc L.]

Good day to all,

I noticed recently that the front left wheel started to tilt from the top. I have not noticed any wobble in the wheel during operation. I will tighten the wheel bolts tonight but They look tight.

There might be a little play when I try to push on the top of the wheel. Any idea of what it is?

When I figured out how to put a picture I will as it will be easier to see.

Thanks in advance.

Marc

 

[greg_g]

Sometimes it's simply due to parking on an uneven surface. Do you have a concrete slab on which to park and take another look? If not, turn the tractor around so it faces the other direction. See if the same wheel tilts out the same amount.

If yes, jack up the front end so the problem wheel is off the ground. See if it still feels "loose".

//greg//

 

[Marc L.]

Thanks Greg,

yes it is parked on a concrete slab (the garage without walls) and the wheel looks tilted and the other is straight.

there is a picture of the wheel,




Marc

 

[Diamondpilot]

Looks fine to me. This brings up a good point and that is to check the nuts and bolts at your normal 50hr service. I would go over every nut and bolt you can find with a wrench.

Chris

 

[greg_g]

yes it is parked on a concrete slab (the garage without walls) and the wheel looks tilted and the other is straight.

The toe-in looks a bit excessive. If I'm not mistaken, Jinma says toe-in should be at least 4mm but no more than 10mm. I'd correct to Jinma spec, then see if it changes the perspective on that tire.

//greg//

 

[Soundguy]

Jack that front wheel off the ground.. it's possible that you have spindle/hub/bearing wear.. or that the bearing is loose.. etc.

soundguy

 

[Marc L.]

I lifted the wheel off the groungd today and yes, there is quite a play in the wheel (about an inch) when I try to move it. I am going to look at this this weekend I guess.

Marc

 

[Soundguy]

Hopefully the hub and spindle survived and just the bearings are gone.. or the gastelated nut backed off.

good luck... I'd plan on a couple bearings.. perhaps cones, and a grease seal, and then check out the spindle. As long as the cups in the hub are replaceable.. the hub will likely be ok..

soundguy

 

[RonMar]

I lifted the wheel off the groungd today and yes, there is quite a play in the wheel (about an inch) when I try to move it. I am going to look at this this weekend I guess.

Marc

An inch sounds like a lot. How does that compare to the other front wheel?

 

[greg_g]

Hopefully the hub and spindle survived and just the bearings are gone.. or the gastelated nut backed off.

good luck... I'd plan on a couple bearings.. perhaps cones, and a grease seal, and then check out the spindle. As long as the cups in the hub are replaceable.. the hub will likely be ok..

soundguy

No spindle or castle nut in this configuration Chris. Wheel rim bolts to axle #33 which goes through bearings #37 and #41. Goes through several grease seals on the way, but no bushings. In my experience however, it's the accompanying grinding noise that will often point to a bad bearing.

Onward and inward though, there is a bushing (#31) and another bearing (#32) where the shaft housing (#25) mates with the outer housing (#42). That shaft housing then bolts to the axle housing (#47). One or more of the bolts that holds them together could be loose.

But there is a good amount of movement in this front drive setup. There's a chance Marc will find both front wheels move about the same. If so, it's back to adjusting the toe-in.

//greg//

 

[Soundguy]

You can see i'm used to 2wd machines!.. Hadn't even thought about it being a 4wd for some reason!

It has what I like to call an inverted hub design, intergral with the axle shaft.

An inch of movement still sounds pretty lax.. I find it hard to believe that seals will hold up to that much shaft play up/down/side/side. Or if you refer it in/out, then I'd thinkt here will be problems in bearing trough edges.. .. etc.

soundguy

 

[RonMar]

Well with it being a 4X4 there are quite a few bearing surfaces that could contribute to the movement. If perhaps it has been denied lubrication, it could be a combination of parts totaling for the whole movement which is not yet bad enough to cause a noticible grinding sound.

 

[Soundguy]

IMHO.. even if the bearings have not let go completely and making the gravel in a mayo-jar sound.. it still needs to be attended to.. etc.

soundguy

 

[Marc L.]

Thanks t all for the advices,

as for the right wheel, it does not move when I push on it, I think it is fine but just for curiosity, I might look at it too this weekend just to compare both sides.

For the grinding noise, my hearing is not the best (just ask my wife...) and the engine running would cover the noise of the bearing grinding. I will just make sure NAPA or Carquest have a couple of bearing on hands before I pull anything out.

I will let you know what I find.

Marc

 

[3RRL]

Marc,
I recently rebuilt the front drives on my Kama. They are of similar design as your Jinma. You can reference the thread Kama Front Drive Repair to see photos and documentation.
When I had a "grinding noise" it turned out to be worn and broken off gear teeth. Bearings can then be affected by any loose material and can go bad as well. Your 1" of play could be from a number of things such as has been touched on as loose bolts which hold the front drive unit together. I'd be sure to check all of them to be tight. If any of those are loose you should have an oil leak except for the 4 top bolts that hold the bearing retainer for the vertical shaft. Any of the other bolts regarding the front drive, including the axle housing bolts if loose, will produce an oil leak.

You did not mention in which direction the play is either. If it is from top to bottom, it could be bearings and loose bolts. Same for front to back of course, but it could also be that the tie rod end is not seated properly in the cone shaped receptacle. Some of us have had to add a washer to allow the cone (taper) to seat properly into the housing taper where the tie rod end is fastened by the castle nut. So you might want to check that as well.

 

[Marc L.]

Thanks Rob, I will look at your link.

I was going to look at it this weekend but the weather is not on my side at the moment. I will look at it as soon as it is dryer outside.

As far as the play, it is up/down as well as side to side. I quickly look at the bolts, the look tight in place and I never had any indication of leak on the drive. As far as grinding noise is concern, I can't hear a thing down there. Like I said, I will probably open both sides this way, I will have something to compare as well making sure everything is right on the other side.

Maybe I should not drive it like I stole it...

Marc

 

[SPIKER]

there is a short stub axle with 2 bearings one inner and one outter. that has a gear between them that is more than likely one of the bearings is gone. I sheared that axle off on mine in a repair last year and there are pics posted here someplace and at johnstractor site.

mark

 

[Marc L.]

I am done finally.

It was the "outer" bearing that was on its way. Got that replace. In addition, the tie rod end had to be thighten also and the linkage was readjusted (toe-in was off by 3/8 inch).

There was not a lot of oil in there also. I filled the transmission until oil start comming there and thighten-up everything and it is good as new (until it breaks again...)

Thanks to all for the help

Marc

 

[orace]

Seems as if I have the same excessive play. definitely the bearing on the front stub axle as well as those on the vertical shaft. No problem so far with disassembling the vertical shaft, but I have been unable to remove the stub shaft (item 33 on thumbnail above). Mine does not look exactly like this: I have an oring on the cover rather than a gasket and can not get it far enough out to see any snap ring on that side. Repeated prying of the cover only locks the bevel gear into the back of the housing.
Does anybody know the secret for removal?