Front loading - before pulling the trigger

[cgraham]

I'm about to close on one of the last LB1914s at $9995.

It's nice to front-load with positive feedback to balance possible buyer's remorse. I'm sure I'm going to wonder if I did the right thing, being unexperienced in this field, and I'll only find out for sure when I work with it.

This machine is to be used to rebuild and maintain my 1/2 mi driveway: it is well suited to that although its size will make progress slow - it's OK, I have time. I must also reinforce a bridge underpinnng badly damaged by a flood - I think it is small enough to get the hoe under there to dump loads of rock. It will have to negotiate much more difficult terrain there. Fortunately, I have a big winch on my truck for traction, extraction and and power assist

I have months of work to do. I figure I will save enough to cover depreciation and then some. Also, I need the exercise

Frankly, economy is a major issue for me, and I felt that snapping up the $9995 + 400 discount clearance is better than looking for an unlikely, used, slightly larger tractor. Especially as I need to get started. This way I get a 4 year warranty and don't have to worry about misuse.

Of course one soon learns that $9995 is just the beginning: after adding a backhoe and foamed tires and a few odds and ends, plus transport from out-of-state, the cost creeps up quickly: I'm looking at $18K without even trying - gulp.

But I doubt I could get anything better for this price, except for a luck-out slightly used deal with known history.

I wsh that I could have ought nearby and developed a relationship with a dealer. But I'm saving $4K by going out of state: no discounted machines here.

I know more tractor is almost always better - but this purchase is a stretch. Any last thoughts out there (no it's not economical to rent or get a contractor in).

What do you think? I hope I'm going to be happy after I put down the deposit, but I will probably squirm for the 3 weeks until I can take delivery and prove the machine (or not)

C

 

[HickoryDean]

C, I don't have a backhoe for my LB1914, but I considered it at time of purchase. The only thing I recall was an undercarriage reinforcement issue; plus the labor involved in attaching & disconnecting the back hoe.
The undercarriage issue is now foggy to me. The reinforcement was a good thing but it seemed to block something or perhaps not permit future addition of a belly mower.
Since I would need the bush hog almost weekly, the prospect of removing and re-attaching the back hoe frequently seemed more appropriate for someone under my age.
Like you stated however, in order to have a more ideal situation, you would need to shell out at least another $10,000...and that is a real-world consideration for those of us who are still hoping to win that PowerBall.
Dean

 

[cgraham]

Hckory - no grass where live in the desert - and no brush to cut.

I think this backhoe is a bit more difficult to install because of the pair of underbody struts that run all the way forwards. I share your concern about age and effort. The only time I forseeably would remove the hoe would be to install a blade on the 3PH; I'll use the bucket whenever possible for such work.

I don't know if one can get good enough with the blade to never need the bucket.

 

[depratt_equip]

The subframe BH's are very easy to get on and off.... only about 5-10mintues. The 3pt stays on the tractor. It is easier to get on and off than a 3pt BH.

 

[IslandTractor]

I don't want to rain on your parade and have nothing bad to say about the 1914. However, as you are eventually going to invest in about 18K or so of tractor and accessories, I think you should at least be clear that you don't want to pay just a few percent more to get Kioti's more modern CK20. The 1914 seems like a very nice tractor but the CK20 does better in most comparison points.

 

[cgraham]

Thanks for all the helpful comments.

I think the CK20 is more than "just a few percentage points" fot an equivalent set up (Loader, hoe, foam in industrials, maybe a blade) for $18K. And if I got that, there would be a MORE capable one for just a few additional percentage points. And so on.

I'd like to know the comparable CK price. I know I'm saving $4K on the discounted LB, after $1000 to travel way out-of-state to get it. If anyone has a CK for "a few percentage points" more I'd like to hear abut it.

The LB 1914 is more than I can afford, and is an unplanned expense. It sure beats a shovel and carrying rocks. I didn't have Katrina (this is NM, LOL), but the flood we did have (plus long-deferred road rebuilding) and a rapidly dwindling supply of discounted LB 1911s suddenly forced a decision upon me. I might not have done enough research, (about 5 intensive days), but the LB seemed be the most affordable option.

I do not have a clear idea of the specific advantages of the CK (I'd like to know - I looked at the K series instead. One thing to bear in mind is that I don't have to do much in the way of trenching or heavy work. It's a lot of mostly loose dirt and rock movement, and refilling, leveling and reshaping on the driveway. Time is on my side.

I don't like having to change seats to use the hoe and to reposition on the LB, or or the cramped hoe seating position. I'll probably work half days, so I can live with it. I don't know if the CK improves on that arrangement.

Any way, I don't want to be defensive - I asked for comments, plus and minus, and I'm grateful for them. I don't see any show stoppers.

I expect to sign tomorrow, unless someone drops a bomb, or a real deal shows up out of the blue.

Please keep the comments coming - I'm learning from them.

Thanks, C

 

[IslandTractor]

I understand your points and did not want to argue against the LB, just that you should double check on the CK before committing. I haven't compared the two directly in a while but generally the CK is a more modern design, has HST option and a curved loader with greater capacity. They use the identical BH so that is not an issue.

I am sure the LB will be more than up to the tasks you have planned.

I have not recently priced the CK TLB. I would imagine it would cost you exactly the difference between the LB and CK each with FEL as they use the same BH. So, my guess is that the difference would be $2000-3000 which ain't peanuts.

 

[cgraham]

LittleIsland: I appreciate the pont you are making: I guess for me it's all about cost, quality, sufficient perforance and resale. I don't care about 'more modern and HST'. 10-20% more cost is not worth 10-20% more performance to me. I'll just go a lttle slower.

Resale on the LB will be lower, but so is cost. I can't know the resale on the LB or CK, so I can't base a choice on that issue, important though it is. "less modern" may hurt me some.

I have to leave immediately for a few days (taking computer), but I won't have time to check CK prices anyway.

Thanks, C

 

[TomKioti]

cgraham,

Forget it if your a man of more than medium stature. I sat on one and I can't imagine spending all day on one but i'm 6'3" 285lbs. Yes i'm swole. On the other side I was quite comfortable on the CK20. I was actually more comfortable on the CK20 than the CK30.... go figure.

Good luck in your selection!

Tomkioti

 

[Bob_Skurka]

Of course one soon learns that $9995 is just the beginning: after adding a backhoe and foamed tires and a few odds and ends, plus transport from out-of-state, the cost creeps up quickly: I'm looking at $18K without even trying - gulp.
. . .
But I'm saving $4K by going out of state: no discounted machines here.

C

It sounds to me like you have given it all alot of thought, rationalized the needs, wants and reality of the buget. But I have a word of caution to all out of state buyers. TAX. Don't forget that when you buy out of state you may not be charged "SALES" tax by the selling dealer. You will still be responsible for paying "USE" tax to your home state (unless you live in New Hampshire).

Many out of state dealers mislead consumers into believe that there is NO tax due.

In fact the dealer who ships the tractor out of state is not required to collect the SALES tax, however the buyer is required to pay that tax in the form of a USE tax. SALES tax and USE tax are part of the tax code of virtually every state law, when SALES tax is not required to be collected, then the tax obligation is converted to USE tax and the burden falls on the buyer. Failure to pay is tax evasion, can result in not only paying the tax but also interest and penalties.

DISCLAIMER: I am not a tax accountant, however I have been used as an expert industry witness and testified via deposition in Federal court cases. I've also testified in several state legislatures on the effects of excise taxes and interstate tax differentials and the effects they have on businesses and the patterns followed by consumers.
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[cgraham]

TomKiti, I'm almost a midget at 5'10.5 and 190# ; It IS a little tight on the hoe, though

I'll live with it.

Thanks for making the point: it is an important one. I did drive a LB around to get the "feel" = OK.

Bob, thanks for pointing out the USE TAX: I was quite unaware of it (but never mislead). NM charges a 3% Ag rate on in-state purchases. so I imagine that's what I'll pay.

How do you in general pay it? State tax return - other method? YOu don't have to register a tractor as far as I know.

Much obliged!

It's amazing the useful information my query initiated!

I am feeling reassured about my choice.

C