Framing Nailer Artifacts Removal Help Please

[BSVLY]

We are finishing up a big remodel of our home. Re-nailed the original siding (really loose after 17 years), added 1" thick rigid foam sheathing, house wrap, and new 1/2 thick ship lap siding and new trim. In order to get a good purchase through all the new material into the 2X6 studs, my carpenter had to use long framing nails. These are collated in plastic sleeves. These leave a plastic collar around most of the nail heads and it is hard to get these off. Very tuff plastic and not brittle yet. Tried pulling them with pliars and scraping. Nothing seems to work without damaging the finish on the siding.

Question: Anyone have a tip on how to remove the remnant plastic strip collers cleanly without damaging the siding? There must be a thousand nails to clean up before I can putty and paint?

Anybody have a solution? Sure do appreciate any tips on this.

Thank you,

Rich

 

[dusty3030]

I'd use a propane torch, at an angle.
Don't point it straight at the nail but perpendicular to it to try and just kiss the plastic to burn it / make it hard.

 

[BSVLY]

I'd use a propane torch, at an angle.
Don't point it straight at the nail but perpendicular to it to try and just kiss the plastic to burn it / make it hard.

Nat a bad suggestion thanks. Heat may be the answer. Have to try some heat..Thanks

 

[Rock knocker]

So your "carpenter" used a framing gun and nail to put on siding?

 

[BeezFun]

I'd call your carpenter back and have him do it. What you have is called flagging, and it's one of the disadvantages of plastic collation, which carpenters use because they store better than paper collation and they're usually cheaper. You can get nails with paper collation so you won't have that problem, so there's really no excuse for doing this and he should own the problem of removing the plastic. Not sure about using a torch because I don't know how that heat on the wood will affect it's ability to take paint. Might try countersinking them by hand. If the carpenter won't provide a solution, hire all the local teenagers and pay them a dime a nail, that's only $100.

 

[BSVLY]

So your "carpenter" used a framing gun and nail to put on siding?

Yes-He had a siding nailer and the longest nails they have for it are not long enough to penetrate the two layers of siding, the 1 inch foam. So he had to use the ring shank galv. framing nails for the length. He wanted a 1 inch purchase into the studs. He said he would buy a new siding gun if he found one that had the capacity for the longer nails. But he did what he did. I am remote. 4 hours from a big box store.

 

[BSVLY]

I'd call your carpenter back and have him do it. What you have is called flagging, and it's one of the disadvantages of plastic collation, which carpenters use because they store better than paper collation and they're usually cheaper. You can get nails with paper collation so you won't have that problem, so there's really no excuse for doing this and he should own the problem of removing the plastic. Not sure about using a torch because I don't know how that heat on the wood will affect it's ability to take paint. Might try countersinking them by hand. If the carpenter won't provide a solution, hire all the local teenagers and pay them a dime a nail, that's only $100.

I hear ya. It is on me unfortunately and read the best solution below..

 

[BSVLY]

Thanks all: Here is what works and I'll say it works very well with a minimal of effort. I took an 18" length of thin walled brass tubing 11/32 in diameter (OD) and made a removal tool. This diameter is barely larger than the heads of the nails. I beveled the end using a bench grinder to make what looks like a plug cutter or hollow hole punch. It is very easy now to twist and cut the flagging around each nail head. Sometimes it takes a few shots, but getting good at popping the plastic out and working towards the nail head means no collateral damage to the siding. Happy with the process now. Did 1/5th of the house in about an hour. So by the end of the day I should have it.

Luckily, the weather is not bad (around 85 and dry) and I'm retired and driving no schedule on the paint job other than getting it done before it freezes. and bugs move inside. Yep-it is a PITA...but want to do it right..

Thanks again all for the input.

 

[dusty3030]

Thanks all: Here is what works and I'll say it works very well with a minimal of effort. I took an 18" length of thin walled brass tubing 11/32 in diameter (OD) and made a removal tool. This diameter is barely larger than the heads of the nails. I beveled the end using a bench grinder to make what looks like a plug cutter or hollow hole punch. It is very easy now to twist and cut the flagging around each nail head. Sometimes it takes a few shots, but getting good at popping the plastic out and working towards the nail head means no collateral damage to the siding. Happy with the process now. Did 1/5th of the house in about an hour. So by the end of the day I should have it.

Luckily, the weather is not bad (around 85 and dry) and I'm retired and driving no schedule on the paint job other than getting it done before it freezes. and bugs move inside. Yep-it is a PITA...but want to do it right..

Thanks again all for the input.

Good idea!

 

[BSVLY]

Follow-up: Got R done by sundown. All 200 linear feet of wall.

Also, to set the proud nails, I used the round end of a ball pean hammer to seat the nail and smacked it with a 20 OZ masonry hammer with flat face. This works very well and way better than a nail set or punch.Now we are priming all the nail heads by brush (the wife does this) and then I'll putty, caulk and paint. Should be done...well...it is going to take a while. Using SW Super paint for the sideing and also the trim. Hoping for an paint job that will last 8 years...