Front-End Loader Frame mount plow with FEL

[Builder]

In a perfect world, I'd really rather have my snowplow frame mounted.

Before I finish mounting my plow on my tractor FEL, I wondered if it could have a frame mounted plow and could the frame mount interfere with the FEL when the plow is dismounted?

Anyone have this set-up?

 

[amigauser]

In a perfect world, I'd really rather have my snowplow frame mounted.

Before I finish mounting my plow on my tractor FEL, I wondered if it could have a frame mounted plow and could the frame mount interfere with the FEL when the plow is dismounted?

Anyone have this set-up?

I had the Kubota quick hitch (front frame mount) and 72" power angle blade on the B3030 that I traded. At least with the Kubota setup the front quick hitch could not co-exist with the FEL mounted. That was one real drawback to it as the loader can come in handy in the winter to move snow and it was a bit of a pain taking the quick hitch assembly off to mount the loader and then doing the reverse when done.

If your tractor has enough clearance between the front of the frame and and the FEL mounts it should be possible to rig up some type of quick hitch.

 

[Builder]

I guess it would be kind of a pain to plow with the loader arms hanging in your view. Even with the bucket removed, they'd block one's vision.

 

[B3200]

I originally wanted a front mount plow on the b3200 I have comming but they said it would interfere with the fel, so I went with a power angle loader mount unit (curtis) I originally asked for a 72" blade but he talked me into a 60" blade, He said he was worried about too much sideways stress on the loader armes when the blade was angled and the tractor getting pushed sideways. Time will tell, I can allways put wings on the blade.

 

[srs]

power angle loader mount unit (curtis) I originally asked for a 72" blade but he talked me into a 60" blade

He said he was worried about too much sideways stress on the loader arms when the blade was angled and the tractor getting pushed sideways.

I have the power angle loader mounted unit that is 84" wide on my B3030. We haven't had any snow yet this year in Maryland so I too will see if this is too wide for my tractor. I always have the option of cutting mine down. I almost bought the 72" model ($100 less) but figured the 84" would be ok. H'mmm??????

 

[PILOON]

In a perfect world, I'd really rather have my snowplow frame mounted.

Before I finish mounting my plow on my tractor FEL, I wondered if it could have a frame mounted plow and could the frame mount interfere with the FEL when the plow is dismounted?

Anyone have this set-up?

YEP, that's what I did!

I made a subframe that transfers the loads to my FEL frame.
I remouve the FEL bucket (just 4 pins and about 5 mins of work) and attach my plow frame (2 pins).
Rather than plumb hydraulics I simply dropped a chain from the FEL cross bar to an appropriate location on my plow frame.
Makes for a short coupled plow setup which is easy to manouver.
Furthurmore I made the plow angle to the right manually (simple pin and folding extension device). Again very fast to do, takes mere seconds.

The big trick was to create a 'straight line push' ie, the arms join the plow at the same height as on the sub frame. This way I can plow in high gear flat out and maintain steering up to the point that the plow is spilling snow over the top of the blade.

If my bucket is required I can always re-pin it on in less than 5 mins (if I can find the bucket under the snow).
In reality I never use the bucket as with plow straight across I can actually bulldoze more snow than with the bucket. Also with bucket I'd usually get stuck due to width being narrower than wheels but since the blade is wider I can roll snow ahead and create mountains.

The set up is so satisfactory That I would not change anything! (not even add hydraulic options, and I have spare valves, cyls on hand)
The whole setup cost me about $200. to fabricate 'out of pocket'

If I can find my posting I'll add a link.

This should do it:
http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/build-yourself/66045-snow-plow-my-mt180d.html

 

[zzvyb6]

I use a frame mounted snow plow and the JD Quick Aattach loader FRAME. Pictures are posted on here somewhere. Loader is off the tractor in 30 seconds. I then use the hydraulics for snow plow lift and angle. I had to raise the front weight bar a few inches to clear the plow retraction spring mechanism but that was a simple welding job. The snow plow attachment points mimic those of the pickup truck pins (the plow is an old truck plow). If you need the loader back, its off in about 5 minutes (2 bolts, a cylinder pin and 4 hose disconnects. The frame mounted plows take more abuse because the loader frame is too weak for a high angle snow attack with heavy wet drifts. I don't feel that loader frames accomodate high side loads. You need to run at a pretty good clip to toss the snow off the road, too. Anybody that runs a plow at a crawl is waisting energy. I always run in high range and 2nd or 3rd gear. I also did not want to twist the loader frame arms because a sprung frame ruins bucket leveling deals. I ought to add that left right brake steer ability with a plow is great for maneuvering the machinery in tight spaces.

 

[Builder]

I use a frame mounted snow plow and the JD Quick Aattach loader FRAME. Pictures are posted on here somewhere. Loader is off the tractor in 30 seconds. I then use the hydraulics for snow plow lift and angle. I had to raise the front weight bar a few inches to clear the plow retraction spring mechanism but that was a simple welding job. The snow plow attachment points mimic those of the pickup truck pins (the plow is an old truck plow). If you need the loader back, its off in about 5 minutes (2 bolts, a cylinder pin and 4 hose disconnects. The frame mounted plows take more abuse because the loader frame is too weak for a high angle snow attack with heavy wet drifts. I don't feel that loader frames accomodate high side loads. You need to run at a pretty good clip to toss the snow off the road, too. Anybody that runs a plow at a crawl is waisting energy. I always run in high range and 2nd or 3rd gear. I also did not want to twist the loader frame arms because a sprung frame ruins bucket leveling deals. I ought to add that left right brake steer ability with a plow is great for maneuvering the machinery in tight spaces.

I think my only issue is that I'd really have to buy a Challenger or Meyers plow frame kit and install it before I would know if it interferes with the FEL. That's a pretty big risk to take.

I already have 3rd function remote on the loader joystick to angle the plow. I guess I could use the up/down loader joystick function from the FEL to raise/lower the plow just like you did.

When you frame mounted your plow, did you just decide to take the risk and put all the parts on, or did your Deere dealer know the plow frame would work with your FEL?

 

[dirtworksequip]

Builder, are you wanting to be able to change between FEL and Front blade quickly and easily or are you looking to somehow mount a frame mounted blade without removing your FEL?

Sincerely, Dirt

 

[zzvyb6]

I found an old Meyers plow ($100), I brought it home, I took the loader off, threw on the mid-mount mower deck brackets, fixtured it up for decent clearances, ran heavy guage square tube out to the plow points, dropped a shortened cylinder down to the lift point, hooked it up and went plowing.

I used a table saw with a metal cutting blade to slice the cylinder tube and ram-rod down to size and long car brake lines to reduce the flow to the angle cylinders. The truck cylinders are used to 1000 psi, my JD is 2000+ so the angle swing was kinda fast at first. Also, having plow with downforce is very useful for cracking ice and packed snow on the driveway. Been in use for 10+ years and never disappointed me, my neighbors or the road commision.

My dealer never was a part of this. (Didn't ask for permission from Mom, either). Meetings are for people who have poor self-esteem.