Ford 8N wont start

[tdagner]

Hi all, I am new to this forum and need some help. I have a Ford 8n, side distributor, 6V system that will not crank. I do not have a clue what it wrong with, but assume it is the timing. I have tried timing the tractor by putting the timing mark on 4 degrees BTDC, seeing where the rotor is pointing and putting that wire on the #1 plug. That is what I have been told is the correct way to do it. I then place the rest of the plug wires, in counterclockwise order, 1-2-4-3. I Have new plugs, new wires, new condensor, new coil, new cap, and new rotor.

I am getting fire at the plugs, and the tractor has gas in the carb.

It will crank when pulled off, but will not crank with the starter. I just had the starter rebuilt and put it back on today. and it turns over very good.

This thing has always been hard to start, but has ran fine once it starts up. A few months ago it just decided that it wasnt going to start anymore and it has been a constant project ever since. I get annoyed at it and put it off until I calm down enough to try again. I have never had this much trouble getting something started in my life, and I have worked on a lot of different engines.

What am I doing wrong? Anyone have any bright ideas on how to fix it? this is driving me nuts.

 

[Soundguy]

First. 'crank' means to turn over.

if you are getting spark.. then it IS turning over... just not starting.

if you an pull start it and it runs fine then it is timed at least close and fire order is correct, if it runs good.

if it won't start with a rebuilt starter.. do chek the cables, ends and battery.

if good thick cables, non coroded ends, and a hot battery with good ground strap to metal.. not paint.. then it's time for the dreaded compression chek.

post back

 

[tdagner]

Sorry. It is turning over, not starting. Cables ends and batteries are all good and clean. Like I said it turns over well. I guess I need to do a compression check on it. I will get to it later this week. I do not compression is the problem though. I had it running 2 weeks ago(after pulling it off) and plowed a field. It had plenty of power.

I will try pulling it off tomorrow and then fine tuning the dizzy when it is running. I will go buy a timing light tomorrow also, since my old antique one finally crapped out on me

 

[Soundguy]

i have seen n's with 70 psi comp across the board still drag a plow.. but be near impossible to crank start

 

[Jerry/MT]

What color is your spark. It should FAT AND BLUISH-WHITE, the color of lightning. If it yellowish, bluish red, or any other color but FAT AND BLUISH-WHITE you need to find out why. The usual culprits are worn, oil, dirty, or maladjusted points, worn distributor shaft bushings etc.

When you time it you have to have the timing mark atset with the #1 cylinder on the compression stroke. Since it runs once you start it. The timing mabe close enough. Is the advance working? Does it run under load after you get it started?

 

[tdagner]

yeah, it runs under load when it starts. The spark is nice and blue(hot).

How do I check to see if the dizzy shaft is worn? I have read a few things about that, but no instruction on how to check it?

 

[Soundguy]

yeah, it runs under load when it starts. The spark is nice and blue(hot).

How do I check to see if the dizzy shaft is worn? I have read a few things about that, but no instruction on how to check it?

side play

 

[tdagner]

I dont quite understand what you mean by side play. However I found this just a little bit ago. I set the flywheel timing mark at 4 degress BTDC and took note of the position of the rotor button. The first picture is where it was the first time.

I then spun the flywheel all the way around again and reset it on 4 degrees BTDC. The rotor button was at a completely different place. about 90 degreess CCW of the first time. The second photo that I have attached is the picture of that.

what is causing this? How do I pull the dizzy to see if something is wring with the shaft that goes into the engine? Is it as simple as loosening the set screw and pulling?

There seems to be 2 different sets of timing marks. I marked one with a permanent marker, then turned the flywheel. Why would there be 2 sets of timing marks?

I also wanted to add that at both of the TDC marks the #1 piston is at TDC, BUT the rotor is at 2 different places.

 

[Soundguy]

i've heard of 2 different sets of timing marks..

lastly.. check to see the rotor fits tight on the shaft.. if not it will have lots of slop .. there will be a spring clip under there.

side play is inthe shaft the rotor rides on / controls the cam the rubbing block rides on.. etc...