I'm new to owning, but experienced at operatorating. I have a ford 641 with some hydraulic issues. Not looking to get too involved yet, just looking for some starting points or how anyone with similar problems resolved them. If the tractor is cold, the 3pt works great(with grader blade attached), lifts all the way and stays up. As the tractor warms it gets some creep, but also will not lift the 3pt all the way. Sometimes halfway, sometimes a quarter of the way and on occasions all the way, but creeps back down fast. This tractor also has a front grader blade on it. This will always lift fully, yet creeps down as well. The oil is full, yet has a little water in it, getting a little milky. I just inherented the tractor and changing fluids and a shop manual are top of the list when finances allow it. Second, there is a miss to the motor and the plug nearest the radiator looks to foul after the little I have ran it. (new plugs and wires just before I received it) I'm thinking valve job? It's darn near impossible to start if its below 40 degrees outside. 6v system. I plan to do a compression test when after I track down a gauge, how much is good and how close is good enough? I feel pretty confident working on anything mechanical. (industrial machine repairmen by trade) Thanks for any input in advance.
The three point hitch problem sounds like a leak, possibly in the lift cylinder. You most likely have some water in the transhyraulic oil (common sump?) due top a lack of use. If the fluid is the color of "coffee with cream" then you should replace it ASAP as well as any filter.
What does the fouling on the plug look like? If it is a dry sooty fluffy fouling, it's from a rich mixture,. Since it's only occuring on one plug, you may have an air leak around the carb metering section (throttle shaft, intake manifold connect flange, rusted or cracked exhaust manifold, leaking manifold gasket)causing the other cylinders to run lean.
If it's an oily wet fouling, that'scause by a loss of oil control in the rings or a worn valve guide. Do you have much smoke when it's running? If so, does it only smoke at low rpms and then clear up at high rpms under load ? If so, it's the valve guides. If it smokes under load only, then it's due to lack of oil control in the rings. Sometimes you can clear that up by working the snot out of it with a plow or disk. Some folks add MMO or ATF to the bad cylinder and let it sit for a few days to "unstick" the rings or clean the couing out of them.
As far as hard starting, check the spark. It should be FAT AND BLUISH-WHITE, the color of lightning. Any spindly blue, reddish or yellowish spark is not good. If you have poor spark, check the points for corrrosion, oil and pitting. Make sure they are set correctly.Once you have a good spark, then check the initial timing and make sure it's correct.
Make sure any fuel line filters are clear and the sediment bowl is not clogged . If you have a carb with a plug inthe bottom of the fuel bowl, make sure the tank valve is on, remove the plug and hold a container under it . the fuel should CONTINUOUSLY gush out like a cow peein' on a flat rock. If it dribbles or is intermittent find out why. A plugged fuel vent in the gas cap, lugged fuel filter in the sediment bowl oand/or in the fuel inlet line to the carb,a kinked fuel line, crap and corruption around the tank strainer, etc Could be the float is "hung" so rap the crb with a block of wood and see if that helps. if none of these help improve fuel flow then maybe there is crud in the fuel bowl of the carb not allowing the floats to drop. The carb has to come off for that.
