Ford 4000 Repair Questions

[GWheat]

I’ve been tearing apart the 4000 I was given. I was just going to repair it and drive it from there but decided to paint it so I’m disassembling it. Couple thing have happened or discovered in this process. First off I was taking the temp sender out and it broke off in the block. Any suggestions to getting it out? Second I took the starter out and discovered that the housing is full or what looks like lithium grease full of metal particles. Wondering what could be grinding? I’m sure it’s not normal to find the inside to look like this? Should I split her wide open?
Third question what does this spring connect to? It’s on the throttle linkage.
Fourth question, what can I do to clean up my valves? As you can tell from the picture they’re pretty dirty. Especially cylinder 4.
Fifth question is what do y’all use for power steering lines as replacements? I’d like to keep to solid lines but I will go to the flex lines if I have to but like solid. Was just curious if there’s a cheaper alternative than the $40 replacement line seeing as all my power steering lines must be replaced.
Last question is I’ve heard that you don’t want to move the distributor. But I can’t get my side cover off without removing the distributor. If I remove the distributor my timing will be effected right? What’s the cause and effect of removing it? And can it easily be resolved.
Thanks for the input.

 

[jaxs]

Congrats on your "new" tractor. When talking about your tractor going forward,refer to it as 4000 3 cylinder or 4000 4 cylinder because they are totally different in almost every respect. Although people often say the "took it apart"before repainting,don't take that literally. They don't go near the extent you already have,just remove hood,fenders and possibly wheels to alow better access. As for your questions:
1. You are on your own. 2.That's normal nasties from slight oil leakage from crank seal and transmission seal with wear dust off clutch and flywheel mix in. It's in ever old tractor and does no harm. Gawd no,do not split your tractor unless you are a glutton for work. If that didn't deter you,maybe this will. 9 chances out of ten,the dust is asbestos and what doesn't wind up in your lungs will spread about the shop to be inhaled later. 3. Pick up a shop manual (Tractor Supply sells IT Manuals which are pretty good). It will show where the spring connects and a bunch of other stuff you should know. 4. Totally unnecessary when and if head is removed for valve job. Again,you will see the carbon inside any engine with hours on it. The increased amount on cyl 4 is from oil leaking past valve seal. Not a problem unless plug foul's often,then a total engine rebuild is usually called for. 5. Solid lines develop cracks from vibration. You might save a few dollars if you find an auto parts store that build's hydraulic hose and they re-use old ends. 6. Yes,it's easy to get it out of time. The manual suggested earlier will help with distributor questions. Why do you need the side cover off? Put it back togeather and do as you origionally planed. I admire your eagerness but you should slow down before you wind up in over your head. Try rebuilding one item(like hyd pump,starter,carb) at the time then after getting your feet wet,wade in if you injoy getting dirt under your nails. Good luck with it and don't wait until there's a question,drop by and swap lies occasionally.

 

[RickB]

Questions about “cylinder #4” should alleviate concerns about identifying a 3 or 4 cylinder 4000. Additionally the photo of the flywheel and ring gear as viewed through the starter mount hole show the starter to the left of the crankshaft. Another ‘tell’ that the OP has a 4 cylinder 4000.

 

[strum456]

The spring hooks onto an ear on the bottom side of your battery box. You could use a scribe to mark the position of the distributor before moving it.

 

[jaxs]

Questions about “cylinder #4” should alleviate concerns about identifying a 3 or 4 cylinder 4000. Additionally the photo of the flywheel and ring gear as viewed through the starter mount hole show the starter to the left of the crankshaft. Another ‘tell’ that the OP has a 4 cylinder 4000.

You are correct but if you are trying to snipe,it doesn't matter for this discussion. That's why I didn't ask but suggested to op "going forward",which I belive can prevent confusing parts men on the phone and resulting in wrong parts.

 

[GWheat]

Congrats on your "new" tractor. When talking about your tractor going forward,refer to it as 4000 3 cylinder or 4000 4 cylinder because they are totally different in almost every respect. Although people often say the "took it apart"before repainting,don't take that literally. They don't go near the extent you already have,just remove hood,fenders and possibly wheels to alow better access. As for your questions:
1. You are on your own. 2.That's normal nasties from slight oil leakage from crank seal and transmission seal with wear dust off clutch and flywheel mix in. It's in ever old tractor and does no harm. Gawd no,do not split your tractor unless you are a glutton for work. If that didn't deter you,maybe this will. 9 chances out of ten,the dust is asbestos and what doesn't wind up in your lungs will spread about the shop to be inhaled later. 3. Pick up a shop manual (Tractor Supply sells IT Manuals which are pretty good). It will show where the spring connects and a bunch of other stuff you should know. 4. Totally unnecessary when and if head is removed for valve job. Again,you will see the carbon inside any engine with hours on it. The increased amount on cyl 4 is from oil leaking past valve seal. Not a problem unless plug foul's often,then a total engine rebuild is usually called for. 5. Solid lines develop cracks from vibration. You might save a few dollars if you find an auto parts store that build's hydraulic hose and they re-use old ends. 6. Yes,it's easy to get it out of time. The manual suggested earlier will help with distributor questions. Why do you need the side cover off? Put it back togeather and do as you origionally planed. I admire your eagerness but you should slow down before you wind up in over your head. Try rebuilding one item(like hyd pump,starter,carb) at the time then after getting your feet wet,wade in if you injoy getting dirt under your nails. Good luck with it and don't wait until there's a question,drop by and swap lies occasionally.

Already rebuilt the carb on it. Just decided to take the repairs a step further. Although this is an old tractor and I’m sure it won’t drive as well as the Kubota, the additional horses will be appreciated. I also have the IT manuals as well as the operating manuals.
Also got the temp sender out. Just needed some penetrant and a tap from a screw driver.

 

[jaxs]

It's good to hear you are moving right along. It is a very desiriable tractor,easy to work on,abundant parts available at reasonable price and built to last. The single most usful feature on this model that isn't on most earlier one's that look the same is live pto. As you can see in my signature,I have a 801 which is the predecessor. It would easily be worth $1k to me if it had live pto. The reason I suggest getting it running before doing more than necessary is so you can tell what need's to be done and do everything at same time,esp lift,clutch,transmission and engine internals.

 

[GWheat]

Well unfortunately it doesn’t have a live pto. Just a 4 speed manual. Although it does have the added value of a Sherman combination transmission and power steering. But, not really looking at value; this was my grandfathers tractor. Just plan on doing it some justice and overhauling it. I know it runs, but unfortunately the last time it did was around 8-10 years ago. The rest of the time it sat under a pole barn. But, from everything I’ve opened up and looked into it looks fantastic. Still has fluid in all 3 compartments, engine oil is still full, no rust in the transmission housing, differential housing and hydraulic housing.
So overall I’m very pleased with his old tractor.