ford 4000 questions

   / ford 4000 questions #1  

shawn1201

New member
Joined
May 9, 2011
Messages
10
Location
luling, Louisiana
Tractor
ford 4000
First of all I would like to say that I am new to the site and have found it very useful the last 2 weeks. I have learned a great deal already from many different post here. Ok, about the tractor now. I recently purchased a ford 4000 with a 6' shredder for $3800.00. 3 cyl diesel, 8 speed, independent Pto, tires are good, paint good, sheet metal good. Overall tractor seems to be in good condition as I can tell. Shreader is in good condition. Tractor was purchased from a gentlemen who owned it for 11 years. Tractor seems to be in good condition, from what he told me it was reconditioned when he purchased it with fresh paint and he had no problems with it in 11 years. Hours unknown due to tach not working and gauge cluster not working. Not sure what was done to the tractor in the past. I used the tractor for about 2 hours bush hoging and all seemed fine before purchasing. I changed all the hoses ( Rad and air), cleaned air filter and replaced oil in the sump, new oil and filter, new gauge cluster, new fuel tank sending unit, new generator and regulator, replaced wiring harness, Belt , new tie rod end, replaced fuel shut off valve and filters, installed thermostart in the intake and new ignition switch, and replaced the fuel run-off hoses and also the power sterring filter. So now I have 4200 into the tractor/shredder. I prolly didnt have to replace all those things but figured since I was going through it I might as well to be on the safe side. The only thing left I want to do is change the fluids, trans and hydro. That will be all I will do unless something breaks or needs attention. First question is that a reasonable price (4200 total with my parts) for the tractor/shredder ? Is it normal to smoke (blueish) on intial start-up for a minute and clear ( I know the tractor is not new ), Tractor runs good and no smoke while working it. Should I replace/rebuild the fuel injectors ? Can I use Mobile SHC 630 sythetic Gear and bearing oil for the tranny and hydr fluids? I can get it very,very cheap. And is there anything else that I am missing to do on the tractor? I dont see anything else screaming for attention as I look over the tractor. Look forward for your input. Thanks
 
   / ford 4000 questions #2  
Yes it is normal to get some smoke on initial start up, the tractor is older and as it warms up tolerances change and it just runs better.

As for the second part Ford (NH) is pretty specific on the oil spec in the manual. Make sure any oil you use meets or exceeds the spec. Normal gear oil is too thick to run as hydraulic oil and synthetics can be worse as they have less viscosity shift with increased temperature. Also the Oil used in the hydraulics has extra anti foaming agents. I would go with what new holland specs unless the oil you can get very very cheap exceeds the spec.

Just my thoughts
 
   / ford 4000 questions #3  
I'd put UTF oil meeting the M2C134 spec into the trans and diffy/hyd sump of your 4000.

UTF can be had on the cheap at places like walmart and tractor supply, plus car quest, napa.. etc.

I've seen as low as 25-35$ per 5g pail...

4200$ is a good deal for a good 4000 with 6' mower.

I just picked up a slightly newer cousin, a 4600, 8spd diesel, with a mostly clapped out 6' hd, but beat up hog. By the time i changed the oils, did some welding on the mower, fixed the 3pt and power steering, repalced the grill and an oil sender and some dash lamps, belt, hoses, and some paint, I probably have about 4400$ in her.. and that's still about 1600-2000$ less than the average 4xxx model around here.

make sure you used a C rated oil in the crankcase.

soundguy
 
   / ford 4000 questions #4  
First of all I would like to say that I am new to the site and have found it very useful the last 2 weeks. I have learned a great deal already from many different post here. Ok, about the tractor now. I recently purchased a ford 4000 with a 6' shredder for $3800.00. 3 cyl diesel, 8 speed, independent Pto, tires are good, paint good, sheet metal good. Overall tractor seems to be in good condition as I can tell. Shreader is in good condition. Tractor was purchased from a gentlemen who owned it for 11 years. Tractor seems to be in good condition, from what he told me it was reconditioned when he purchased it with fresh paint and he had no problems with it in 11 years. Hours unknown due to tach not working and gauge cluster not working. Not sure what was done to the tractor in the past. I used the tractor for about 2 hours bush hoging and all seemed fine before purchasing. I changed all the hoses ( Rad and air), cleaned air filter and replaced oil in the sump, new oil and filter, new gauge cluster, new fuel tank sending unit, new generator and regulator, replaced wiring harness, Belt , new tie rod end, replaced fuel shut off valve and filters, installed thermostart in the intake and new ignition switch, and replaced the fuel run-off hoses and also the power sterring filter. So now I have 4200 into the tractor/shredder. I prolly didnt have to replace all those things but figured since I was going through it I might as well to be on the safe side. The only thing left I want to do is change the fluids, trans and hydro. That will be all I will do unless something breaks or needs attention. First question is that a reasonable price (4200 total with my parts) for the tractor/shredder ? Is it normal to smoke (blueish) on intial start-up for a minute and clear ( I know the tractor is not new ), Tractor runs good and no smoke while working it. Should I replace/rebuild the fuel injectors ? Can I use Mobile SHC 630 sythetic Gear and bearing oil for the tranny and hydr fluids? I can get it very,very cheap. And is there anything else that I am missing to do on the tractor? I dont see anything else screaming for attention as I look over the tractor. Look forward for your input. Thanks

The bluish smoke at start up is probably due to some oil getting past the valve guides and dripping on to the intake valve. As long as you don't use copious quantities of oil while operating I'd consider it nothing to worry about. The fuel injectors aren't causing that problem.
get your self an owners manual (they're cheap on ebay) and alll the specs are in there. I'm not that familiar with the older 4000 series but I'm almost certain they take Ford Spec M2C134C or M2C 134D transhydraulic fluid so if that's the case, just buy what meets the spec. Don't use straight gear oils because your rear axle is the reservior for the hydraulic system and I believe your tranny uses the same oil even though they are separate systems. If this isn't correct, someone who owns a 4000 series will correct me.

The tractor you are describing was good buy at $3800 with a mower and the $400 you've put into so far is money well spent. The only other advice i would give you is that if you plan to work on this tractor, get a factory shop manual and a parts manual. look on ebay again and you can find them pretty cheap. They will pay for themselves the first time you do a repair and you can learn a lot about how the systems are designed to work so that it will help with troubleshooting.
Congrats on the tractor and enjoy your seat time!
 
Last edited:
   / ford 4000 questions
  • Thread Starter
#5  
Thanks guys for the input thus far. After doing a little research myself i have decided not to use the 630 oil and will use the oil soundguy suggest. I have been reading his post and seems to be very tremdeous knowledge. As far as the tractor using oil I have only used it for 2 hours since buying it and i checked it before and after and no use of oil. Im not overly concerned about it to be honest. I know the tractor is not new. Once again thanks for yall advice and any other suggestions would be great.. I have purchased the ford manual already and the oweners manual off of ebay. That was my first purchase after I bought the tractor. I plan on buying the I/t manual as well. Will the I/t manual have a detailed parts break down and parts numbers as well??? Is there any other manuals yall suggest also too. Also how difficult is it to change the hyd filters?? Does this even need to be done or just a fluid change is good enough? Thanks again guys..

Shawn
 
   / ford 4000 questions #6  
the lil puff of smoke at startup is a non issue.


i use the generic utf in all my machines... everything from the old N's up thru the newish thousand series I have. never had a lube issue with it.

soundguy
 
   / ford 4000 questions
  • Thread Starter
#7  
Soundguy, Thanks again for your input, I will try to change the fluids this weekend if I dont have to work. I will check on getting the utf oil tomorrow along with a fresh battery as the one I have is weak and wont take a good charge. After that I will use the tractor as needed and take care anything else that pops up other than normal maintenance. Thanks
 
   / ford 4000 questions #8  
the 4xxx models are strong tractors.. I have a 4600 and love it. almost as powerfull as my 5000, but way more nimble.

ps.. on that 4000 assuming independent pto, the rear end oil check plug is suposed to be on the pump cover on the right side. aft of your right foot.

I remember searching there for mine on my 4600 when i was informed that it was moved back and up a lil bit on the 4600 :) which is why I couldn't find it originally.. :)

hint.. if it is an inverted plug.. be carefull.. and when you get it out.. if it is worn.. replace so you don't have an issue next time.. either inverted or suare head.. just something new and good you can get out easilly. My inverted plug stripped on the allen wrench JUST as it turned out.. I got lucky.. it came out but was ruined in the process.

I put a new square plug in it's place for easy removal next time... don't ovewrtighten it especially if it is in the aluminum pump cover..e tc..

soundguy
 
   / ford 4000 questions
  • Thread Starter
#9  
soundguy, yes it is independent pto and yes the plug is located on the right foot side. It is external square type. If needed I will replace. Thanks for the advice. Also is it neccesary to change the filters for the hyd. system? Dont know when or if they where ever replaced/cleaned. Hyd works good and have no issues that i have noticed thus far. Is it a hard task ? and last question , does the I&t manual have a complete parts breakdown and parts number. I have the owners manual and ford service manual already. Thanks a bunch...... Shawn
 
   / ford 4000 questions #10  
the I&T ain't bad.. it's cehap enouigh that I like to have them even if I hav ethe oem service manual.

you can always get parts lists for free with expanded drawings at the NH parts site.

as for the suction strainer.. unde rthe lift cover. I would not classify it as an EASY fix.. :) if it's not having a problem.. Id be tempted to overlook it for now.

I'm just as glad my 4600 has an external filter :)

if you have a square plug you should be good to go.. plus it likely won't be as tight into aluminum as my inverted one was into cast iron :)

if the oil coming out of the hyds / diffy looks bad ( dirty, chunky, or emulsified with water ).. this is what I would do.. go buy some cheap accell 303 utf fluid.. usually it's the cheapest UTF you can find. dump in a few gallons, plus a gallon or two of diesel, a quart of atf and a couple pints of 91% rubbing alcohol.. run her around the driveway then drain.. then refill with your utf oil.

soundguy

soundguy
 

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