I just received a Ford 3000 diesel from my grandfather who passed. I believe it痴 early 70痴 model. Runs great but the rear lift doesn稚 work. Checked fluid at both fill plugs and it appears full. I moved every lever there was but nothing is happening. I was told that the last few times the tractor was used which was probably six months to a year ago that the lift arms were very slow and took a long time to activate. I was also told to check the filter to make sure it was not clogged but I知 not sure where it is or how to access it. What something that I could do if I purchased a manual or should I take the tractor to a repair shop? Thanks for any advice
ovrszd
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Welcome to TBN.
Glad to hear you inherited the tractor. I highly value things like that.
If you don't get any good responses on this thread you might try reposting it in the "New Holland owner/operator" section. In the title mention the lift problem.
There are some very experienced members here on TBN that will thru process of elimination figure out what's wrong with the lift. RickB is one of those guys.
I would want to eliminate all of the simple issues before doing any disassembly.
The lift mechanism is self contained in the rear axle top cover which the seat bolts to. That entire system is relatively easy to remove if you are mechanically inclined. The actuators and the cylinder are all there.
Hopefully someone will chime in with suggestions.
Glad to hear you inherited the tractor. I highly value things like that.
If you don't get any good responses on this thread you might try reposting it in the "New Holland owner/operator" section. In the title mention the lift problem.
There are some very experienced members here on TBN that will thru process of elimination figure out what's wrong with the lift. RickB is one of those guys.
I would want to eliminate all of the simple issues before doing any disassembly.
The lift mechanism is self contained in the rear axle top cover which the seat bolts to. That entire system is relatively easy to remove if you are mechanically inclined. The actuators and the cylinder are all there.
Hopefully someone will chime in with suggestions.
RickB
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The hydraulic filters on your tractor are internal and difficult to service. The first thing I would do after you have verified the oil level is correct (which you have done) would be to bleed the pump. Your pump is located at the left rear of the engine. At the rear of the pump there is a 1/4 inch pipe plug, usually with a female hex to accept an Allen wrench. Remove the plug and crank the engine for no more than half a minute with the fuel shutoff OFF so the tractor does not start. If you get nothing but air or a mix of oil and air, the shaft seal on the pump and suction line seals are suspect. If the air clears up and you get bubble free oil, reinstall the plug, start the tractor and check the hitch operation. If the pump does not prime you can repeat the process and/or start the tractor but be prepared to shut it off immediately when oil starts pumping from where the plug belongs. Post back if you need to.
kirkawilson
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This might help: Ford 3 service/rockshaft remove/suction filter - YouTube
Ok, bled the pump and only oil came out. I removed the seat and housing so I could get to the hydraulic filter. The fluid was milky and a little sludge from water I guess. I cleaned it with kerosene and drained. It appears someone knocked a hole in the filter screen at some point. I put new o ring and gaskets on everything that I could remove easily and put it all back together and filled with fluid but the lift arms still don’t move. I did notice that the lever that switches hydraulics from lift arms to auxiliary hydraulic lines does not work properly. On other tractors when you move the lever it normally springs back, on this tractor it feels like it is partially stuck I don’t know if this would have anything to do with the lift arms not working or not. Any advice?
i7win7
Veteran Member
Om my F4000, I have a lever that switches between positional control and draft control of 3pt (next to pvc pipe). Above that is a flow diverter to select FEL or 3pt. Diverter is my biggest complaint when scooping up rock to rebuild drive (3pt won't drop or bucket won't curl - diverter in wrong position) Nether of these controls "return to center" never intended to.
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Texasmark
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Ditto on #7's reply. I see that your remote lever is in the remote position.....part of the shiny shaft is showing....this needs to be pushed forward.
Just to the left of the tip of the pvc pipe is a round knob. This is the flow volume control. It has to some number of turns CCW for fluid to work...opens allowing variable flow. The other thing is the lever adjacent to the end of the PVC pipe. Different from mine but see if it will pull up to a vertical position. If so, with what I already said, after what you did, the 3 pt lever should raise. Come back if it doesn't.
Just to the left of the tip of the pvc pipe is a round knob. This is the flow volume control. It has to some number of turns CCW for fluid to work...opens allowing variable flow. The other thing is the lever adjacent to the end of the PVC pipe. Different from mine but see if it will pull up to a vertical position. If so, with what I already said, after what you did, the 3 pt lever should raise. Come back if it doesn't.
joeu235
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Funny, my mom called me today about her Ford 3000 3 point not working.
I went over this evening and it was in draft control.
Anyone know why it has to be in draft control mode to be able to move the remote hydraulics lever?
I went over this evening and it was in draft control.
Anyone know why it has to be in draft control mode to be able to move the remote hydraulics lever?
Texasmark
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Draft is counter pressure on the 3 pt and the intent is to have a sensitive 3rd member. As obstructions vary and are encountered in plowing, the 3rd member-top link senses that as increased pressure toward the tractor. This pushes on a valve inside the hydraulic section that relieves pressure on the 3 pt allowing it to raise slightly till the pressure stabilizes...or something of the sort.
The draft control works in conjunction with the "position" (manual lifting) control in the 3 pt operation. Basically for the 3 pt to function independently, the draft has to be out of the circuit. Older Ford tractors have a selector lever (like yours) and 2 lift levers, one draft for varying the amount of draft interaction, and one for position. In position control position, only the position lever functions. In draft, both work as described above.
Since I only see one lever and the selector lever, I suppose in draft function the single lever has to do both jobs...lift the implement at full up but vary the degree of resistance to plowing pressure applied when the 3 pt is lowered.
The draft control works in conjunction with the "position" (manual lifting) control in the 3 pt operation. Basically for the 3 pt to function independently, the draft has to be out of the circuit. Older Ford tractors have a selector lever (like yours) and 2 lift levers, one draft for varying the amount of draft interaction, and one for position. In position control position, only the position lever functions. In draft, both work as described above.
Since I only see one lever and the selector lever, I suppose in draft function the single lever has to do both jobs...lift the implement at full up but vary the degree of resistance to plowing pressure applied when the 3 pt is lowered.
i7win7
Veteran Member
I find you terminology confusing 3pt hydraulics and remote hydraulics are different things to me. My picture in post #6 the 3pt mode selector is in positional control, flipping lever up the 3pt is either up or down no in between (lever selecting amount of draft). Lever on top is a flow diverter and selects sending oil to 3pt or remote devices (FEL for me)
If the large 3pt lever isn't working in positional control, it may have internal issues. Being a popular tractor, I'm sure youtube videos exist on 3pt repair and adjustment.