Ford 3000 won't crank to start

[rwridle]

My Ford 3000 stalled while cutting thick brush. During the restart it cranked slowly. I charged the battery and it would not turn over to start. Verified the battery is good and ended up replacing the starter at the advice of local Ford dealer. Now it won't turn over. Voltage regulator checks out fine and
I cleaned the contact points. I will post a link to a video of the problem. I think there is something wrong with the starter, and would appreaciate any advice or experience with the same problem.

 

[Texasmark]

You didn't say diesel or gas. If you were mowing at PTO rpms you had a lot of kinetic energy built up in the rotating blade. Whacking something hard could have sent a shock wave all the way through your gear train to and through your engine. If you have any gears locked in place with a Woodruff Key, you could have sheared, or partially sheared it, changing the engine/injector/spark timing.
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I'd try to restart it with the clutch depressed to disconnect everything from the engine.
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Get a voltmeter and put it across the starter, one lead on the 12v input lead (⅜" copper stud) and the other lead on the STARTER HOUSING. Crank the engine and see if you have 10v while cranking. If not one of two things: Starter offering too much load to the power supply system, or you have a bad electrical connection somewhere between the battery and the starter stud/case.....one good place to check is this:

The battery - lead is probably grounded to the tractor frame on the right side. If it is, move it over to the starter and put it under one of the starter mounting bolts having shined up the area and the lug before mounting. Check the + lead at the starter ⅜" stud and ensure it's clean (inside) and tight.

Next problem could be worn brushes in the starter. Some starters have a metal band (dust cover) around them whereby you can remove it and see the condition of the brushes. Commutator could be glazed over requiring burhishing to shine it up and improve conductivity.

If all that's ok then something in the engine has changed. I'd pull the injectors/spark plugs and see how it rolls over. If not too good then something is binding. If good then you need to check timing.

Wow, this just goes on and on. Get that done and if you still aren't there come back and we will go some more.

 

[jaxs]

The secquence of events don't make sense(esp what you say about regulator). Explain how you tested regulator on a tractor that won't even crank,much less start and run. After hearing how you managed to check regulator,we can talk about getting tractor running.

 

[rwridle]

Thanks for the replies! Tractor is diesel. I cleaned the regulator as part of checking it out to ensure it was not burned or damaged. The inside of the regulator was clean, and the points opened and closed freely. The wear looked normal. I ruled out the regulator.

I think either the starter is stuck in the flywheel or there is some thing with the PTO and or gears binding.

I also will pull the injectors at the cylinders and try to turn it over. This is my first time troubleshooting a diesel.

Also: It rolls freely with the clutch depressed or in neutral. I tried to jump start it by pulling it behind my truck with my cousin. It would not start.

 

[rwridle]

A couple of pictures of the new starter and how it is wired.

 

[rwridle]

Video of what it is doing

Ford 3000 will not crank - YouTube

 

[Matt_Jr]

I watched the video. I could hear the way it's banging in gear. First thing I would do is try and turn the crank by hand. The Bendix sounds like it's being thrown out and hitting the flywheel with a good amount of force, but no cranking. Do you have an amp probe? Is the battery cable getting hot while cranking? What do YOU think caused it to stall? You think the load was too great? Did it stall abruptly from hitting something? What is the oil level and condition?.. and coolant level.? Was it running hot when it stopped running? What's your battery voltage at? Are you trying to crank it over with the PTO engaged? Need just a bit more information before coming to an accurate diagnosis, but I truly hope we get you back up and running.

 

[rwridle]

I watched the video. I could hear the way it's banging in gear. First thing I would do is try and turn the crank by hand. The Bendix sounds like it's being thrown out and hitting the flywheel with a good amount of force, but no cranking. Do you have an amp probe? Is the battery cable getting hot while cranking? What do YOU think caused it to stall? You think the load was too great? Did it stall abruptly from hitting something? What is the oil level and condition?.. and coolant level.? Was it running hot when it stopped running? What's your battery voltage at? Are you trying to crank it over with the PTO engaged? Need just a bit more information before coming to an accurate diagnosis, but I truly hope we get you back up and running.

It stalled slowly in thick grass after a normal start. The tractor was just getting warmed up. Oil level was actually a little overfilled, but I had run it 7 hours the weekend before with no problem. I corrected the oil level. Battery cable does not get hot while cranking. PTO is not engaged, nothing is attached to the PTO. I will measure battery voltage and report this afternoon. Thanks!

 

[sd455dan]

It stalled slowly in thick grass after a normal start. The tractor was just getting warmed up. Oil level was actually a little overfilled, but I had run it 7 hours the weekend before with no problem. I corrected the oil level. Battery cable does not get hot while cranking. PTO is not engaged, nothing is attached to the PTO. I will measure battery voltage and report this afternoon. Thanks!

Yeah - test the battery - a Load test would be more definitive than a simple voltage test

If you can get a socket on the crankshaft damper bolt make sure the crankshaft is not locked.

If the engine is not stuck I would do some current checks of the main starter cable with an inductive dc amp meter while cranking.

By saying there is no heat generated while attempting to crank it sounds like a bad main cable or termination That also includes the - cable and it's termination. This assumes the battery has passed it's tests and engine is not stuck.

 

[radios1]

the voltage at the starter when cranking will tell you what's going on..