Ford 3000 overheating.

[Patf10]

So i have a 72 ford 3000 that has been having an overheating issue for some time now. We purchased the tractor used of course, and shortly after the water pump went. We replaced that and noticed that the rad was all plugged up. So i took that to the shop and had it boiled out. Still overheats even after that. Found that someone had put a spacer in the vacuum advance and it wasnt working correctly, still wasnt the issue. So im at a loss, i dont think its running to lean. I have noticed when you turn the idle down the temp drops almost immediately i figure that has something to do with the voltage dropping from the generator at lower rpms? The only other thing would be, if the rad was all plugged up with corrosion could the inside of the block be the same? what works well for flushing a block?

 

[Jackfr]

have you checked/replaced the thermostat

 

[MMagis]

Have you changed the cap?

 

[Patf10]

cap, wires, ect look good. Thermostat is not the issue. It doesnt overheat real fast, it takes a while sometimes maybe an hour or so. So im leaning toward the plugged passages especially the way the rad looked. I replaced the waterpump but do not recall what it looked like inside there.

 

[Soundguy]

flow test the radiato with a garden hose.

cap on, hose with rag around it to inlet, and outlet open. should flow a 1/2" garden hose full out.

low rpm/genny I doubt is the issue.. battery voltage ain't gonna drop past 12.3v even running the ignition. that machine uses a 4dlt battery. a big haus...

soundguy

 

[Jbrink64]

Is it truly overheating? Check it with a good thermometer? You mention the temp drops when idling...the gauge is a bi-metallic type-needs constant voltage, either 7 or 10 volts, can't remember which one. Anyway, on the back of the instrument cover, there is a voltage regulator to supply the correct voltage to the fuel and temp gauges. If the temp gauge gets full battery voltage, it reads hot.