Ford 3000 Clutch Adjustment

[JReid]

Hi,
I decided after reading everything I could find on clutch adjustment twice, I would post to see if anybody could help me with a small problem.

The tractor is a Ford 3000, from October 2, 1968. It has 6800 hours, and most likely has been worked on before as there are sleeves in the block. I just had the clutch rebuilt and got it put back onto the flywheel, and the tractor put back together. Now the problem is that when I push down on the clutch, it falls down to about an inch off the platform. The clutch rod from the pedal to the lever is 27.5" and is adjusted as short as possible, but still doesn't have much of a push until it hits the platform. The lever connected to the rod running through the bell housing is straight down when it goes click, touching the fingers on the clutch assembly. This lever looks like it has been broken off before and welded back on, so it's possible that it's not in the correct position. I tried my own "made-up" rod just to see if the clutch actually worked, and it does just the pedal doesn't have enough bite to get it to work.

How can I adjust the clutch so that it will work? I still have it torn apart waiting for parts for the engine, so it's easy to pull it back apart to adjust the clutch assembly itself. The only thing I can think of is to cut the clutch rod off about an inch and re-thread it so that it will be short enough.

If anybody can help it will be greatly appreciated! I've had this thing split 5 times now just to make sure it's right. I can supply as many pictures as you need, just let me know.

Thanks
-Jon

 

[jones6780]

Pictures would help. Need to see the lever positions with pedal up and down.

Russell

 

[3nickles]

are you sure the clutch doesn't disengage when it "falls"? that tougher push you feel at the bottom could just be your second stage,(pto clutch) in which case all is well.

 

[Jerry/MT]

Hi,
I decided after reading everything I could find on clutch adjustment twice, I would post to see if anybody could help me with a small problem.

The tractor is a Ford 3000, from October 2, 1968. It has 6800 hours, and most likely has been worked on before as there are sleeves in the block. I just had the clutch rebuilt and got it put back onto the flywheel, and the tractor put back together. Now the problem is that when I push down on the clutch, it falls down to about an inch off the platform. The clutch rod from the pedal to the lever is 27.5" and is adjusted as short as possible, but still doesn't have much of a push until it hits the platform. The lever connected to the rod running through the bell housing is straight down when it goes click, touching the fingers on the clutch assembly. This lever looks like it has been broken off before and welded back on, so it's possible that it's not in the correct position. I tried my own "made-up" rod just to see if the clutch actually worked, and it does just the pedal doesn't have enough bite to get it to work.

How can I adjust the clutch so that it will work? I still have it torn apart waiting for parts for the engine, so it's easy to pull it back apart to adjust the clutch assembly itself. The only thing I can think of is to cut the clutch rod off about an inch and re-thread it so that it will be short enough.

If anybody can help it will be greatly appreciated! I've had this thing split 5 times now just to make sure it's right. I can supply as many pictures as you need, just let me know.

Thanks
-Jon

That's most likely a two stage clutch. Do you have a manual to tell you how to adjust it? If not you ought to get one.

 

[JReid]

Yes I'm sure the clutch doesn't disengage when it falls. The neutral safety switch went bad so I have the shifter cover off and can see the gears turn when I turn the crankshaft and the pedal is down. ( I have the pistons out, the head off etc.) However, when I tried my own rod, the gears stopped turning with the pedal halfway down and then the PTO all the way down, like it's supposed to.

It is a two stage clutch, and I have the manual. It says the finger adjustment screws are supposed to be 2.110" and that's what they are. It then says to adjust the linkage until the correct free play is set (1.5"). Well my rod is adjusted as short as it can be set and it's still too long.

I looked on the New Holland parts page and saw that they make a rod that is 26". I may see if I can get one of those and see if it fixes the problem. then if I ever need to adjust it out, I can always put the old rod back on.

Pictures of the lever are coming, will post them tomorrow.

Thanks
-Jon

 

[JReid]

Ok, I figured out what's wrong with the clutch. I talked to the New Holland guy and he said that the place I took the clutch too turned the flywheel down too far for the way the clutch was adjusted. He told me to adjust the finger adjustment screws out as far as possible, but keep them even. Then adjust the PTO set screws with the .05" gap and if it still needed a shorter rod to make one myself and wait until the clutch wears a little bit and then try the original one.

I pulled the tractor back apart now for the 7th time and made the adjustments and then put it back together. Now I have about 2" of free play which I will adjust a little with some bends in the rod. However, I clamped the pedal down and turned the crankshaft and the PTO shaft still turns. So, I tried to turn the pto shaft by hand but it's too stiff. I put a pipe wrench on it and it turns freely with a little leverage, although I hear some rubbing from the clutch. The last 2 inches of the clutch pedal do stop the pto, so when I get the motor back together, I'm going to hook up to the bushhog, and stop and start the pto several times to break in the new surface of the pressure plate. I might even ride the clutch through some heavy grass to help it wear some.

I got to looking at pictures of the ford 3000 on google and other sites and have determined that the clutch lever on the side of the transmission is real close to the correct position. The only problem was when the last owner had a new clutch put in it, they probably turned the flywheel also and that's why the distance is getting shorter and shorter. I'm going to leave a note in the manual for it, "Do Not Have the flywheel resurfaced!"

BTW, the guy that's working on my fuel pump and injectors said that the pump was packed with mud as well as the injectors, and was surprised that it even ran!

Thanks for the help!
-Jon