Ford 3000 Body Panel Removal

scouse lee · Feb 27, 2011

Hi, I have a 1970 3000 and at the moment there are 2 jobs I'm trying to do. The 1st is to replace the hydraulic oil filters as the hydraulics are extremely slow at the moment,(in fact they don't work at all really). I have taken the seat off, drained the oil & loosened most of the bolts, I have a new filter ready to go in and will clean the other one as suggested elsewhere. Before I go further should I replace all the 'o' rings while I'm at it & is there anything else I need to replace or if other stuff, seals etc., look ok will I get away with leaving them for now,(funds are tight). I will probably have more questions as I go along with this one. The other thing I've done is fitted new headlights but they are still not working so I've bought a new switch and intend to have a good look at the wiring/fuses etc., problem is I want to take the engine hood panel off but I'm having a few problems, I've undone all the bolts/screws I can find, removed light switch & ignition switch but I can't get the stop pull lever off, does the red top come off? I've also removed the cap & nut from the steering wheel but it's still not coming off. obviously the panel has to come upwards to clear the steering column,(although there may be trouble there as well as I have an old Lambourn cab on and the bolts are well rusted so if that has to come off I may have to get the angry grinder out). Sorry for the long winded post fellas but as I've posted elsewhere I haven't got a workshop manual, I'm looking but don't know which I should get. Can anyone recommend this one Ford Shop Service Manual: Models 2000/3000/4000 I & T Shop Service Manuals: Amazon.co.uk: Intertec Publishing Corporation: Books:thumbsup:

gregsons · Feb 27, 2011

As far as the steering wheel i was able to take by 3 arm puller and it came right off. I think I may have taken one arm off it to make it a 2 arm and that made it a little easier. There was a bolt/ nut on the back / firewall when putting back together that was the worst. as far as a cab i can help.

Soundguy · Feb 27, 2011

stop cable is hooked to the injection pump with a set / pinch screw on the linkage. disconnect that and then you don't need to remove the cable lock nut from the back of the dash cowling.

put a bolt in the steeirng tube to protect it when you use a puller.. expect to eat up the steering wheel hub too.

penetrant oil is your friend by the way.

hod panel comes off super easy from the nose and dash cowling. front nose clip ain't bad either once you get air cleaner out of the way. dash is a PITA...

the top cover hyd oring/gasket kit is about 15$ and has all the orings and gasket you will need fo rthe cover and option port. has the 3pt lift seal and backup washer usualy too.

my 3000 is a 4-68 model...

soundguy

scouse lee · Feb 28, 2011

Cheers Soundguy, so basically I need a puller for the steering wheel,(ok I've never used one nor would I know what one looks like or where to get one lol), and the dash panel is going to be fun then

Soundguy · Feb 28, 2011

i'd go with a 3 jaw puller.. that and penetrant oil.. and remember to put a bolt into the hollow steering tube to protect it from mushrooming from the puller.

soundguy

kf4uda · Feb 28, 2011

Here is an example of a 3 jaw puller.

3-Jaw Puller 150 mm: Amazon.co.uk: DIY & Tools

DJ54 · Feb 28, 2011

I was sitting in the seat of my 2000, when I removed the nut from the steering wheel. As usual, I got hold of the wheel, underneath to kinda' steady myself getting up, pulling up slightly, as I usually do..., to go get a puller out of the tool box. I almost went over backwards, with the wheel in my hands, it came off that easy... Probably one in a million incident, but glad it did..!!

Some would probably consider me **** when it comes to chasing threads on nuts & bolts, and applying Never-Seize. My buddy used to say, "Let the next guy worry about it..." But I figure the next guy might be me, so it's worth the time spent to me...

Never-Seize is cheap... Never-Seize is my friend.... :thumbsup: