Ford 2N only runs with choke pulled all the way out

[2old2have5sons]

I have a Ford 2N - Over the past several months I had been having more and more problems starting the tractor and keeping it running, so I replaced the plugs (Autolite 437) and replaced the sediment filter, so now I can start the tractor and it will run, but only if I have the choke pulled all the way out. If I try to push the choke knob in, the engine dies. Any suggestions?
Thanks

 

[Rock knocker]

Time for a carburetor rebuild. There are many books on the market and videos on the net regarding this, and parts are readily available. You have to remember that this machine was aimed at fix it yourself farmers seventy years ago, who were replacing a draft horse, so it is pretty easy to do by anyone higher in the intellectual food chain than said horse.

 

[Egon]

For a quick check open and close the carb. Jets a few times with tractor running. Just remember the original setting.

 

[DJ54]

Before going to the expense of a carb. rebuild kit, try this. (Click on the link below to show the exploded view of your carb.)

Shut the fuel off at the carb. Remove the fuel line at the carb., then open the fuel valve, and make sure you have good flow to there. If you are good to there, remove the brass elbow fitting ( #16 in the exploded view) where the fuel line attaches to the carb. This should have a fine mesh screen on it when you get it out. A can of spray carb. cleaner will clean this up, spraying from the outside, and flush back through, to the open end. Hold it up to the light, and make sure the screen is clean. If you have a compressor, a spritz of air back through the screen for a final cleanup. Re-install the elbow, connect the fuel line, turn on the gas, and try it then. If it still needs the choke to run, you need to go a little deeper.

You'll need to remove the carb. from the manifold. Remove the bowl, being careful not to damage the gasket, and be very careful not to bump the float, and knock it out of adjustment There will more than likely be some sediment, and crud in the bottom. If the gasket was not damaged, or distorted when you take it apart, it should seal back up OK. More carb. cleaner to flush that out. Remove the jets ( Items #20 & #22), and spray through those ports. Hold it away from your face, or wear safety goggles,as it can spray back in your face. Remove the discharge nozzle ( #9). A 1/4" drive deep well socket to fit the hex fitting ( maybe 7/16"..??), or a hollow nut driver may be needed to take that out. Be careful not to lose the tiny fiber washer that may come out with it. Look towards the bottom of that nozzle for two tiny cross drilled holes in that tube. Hold it up to the light, and make sure they are open. If not, pluck a wire from a wire brush, or use a strand of wire from a piece of automotive type braided copper wire as a cleaner. Spray with carb. cleaner to make sure it they are open.

Spray carb. cleaner through all of the open ports you can see. Reassemble, and try it then. The main jet should be set at 1-1/2 turns out from the bottom, and the idle jet at 3/4 turn out from the bottom. Just run them in easy until you feel them seat, then turn back out. This will be close enough to get it running. You can tweek/fine tune them when you get it running.

Official New Holland Online Parts Store and Online Parts Catalog for New Holland and Ford Tractors.

 

[CobyRupert]

Recently had similar problem on my 4 wheeler. Was ready to pull carb. Was sure it was gunked idle jet. Noticed it ran hot?
Discovered it was an air leak between carb and intake.

 

[2old2have5sons]

UPDATE - One of my sons reminded me that over the past year, we have added gas to the tank, but have never run it dry, so we figured we still had at least some older gas in the tank. So, we drained all of the gas out of the tank and put 4 gallons of 100% gas (no ethanol) in the tank. We cranked it and it seemed to run better. We still had to choke it to start it, but we could push the choke part way in once it was running, but not all the way. So, I thought, since we've had some success here, let's just run it a while, so we took turns driving around for about an hour. Sometime around 45 minutes of driving, it coughed up some smoke close to where the exhaust manifold bolts to the exhaust pipe. We noticed there were some small rust holes close to the union. We are thinking that some insects got in through the rust holes and built a nest. I won't know until I unbolt the connection and check it out. But, once it cleared whatever the blockage was, the tractor ran great, not perfect, but way better than before.
So, for now, I think we had a few problems which made it hard to troubleshoot. I do think the carb needs to be cleaned and/or rebuilt at some point, but I think some stale gas along with some kind of exhaust blockage were the main problems. Thanks to all who responded, it was a big help...hope my problem and solution helps someone else also...

 

[Garycw]

What usually works for me is take carb apart.complete clean, check float operation & adjust if necessary. Also clean fuel bowl & screen too. Re assemble and adjust jet all the way in, then back out 1 1/2 turns. On air mix too. Start & do a fine tune adjustment and you're good to go.

 

[2old2have5sons]

Just to make sure I understand, to adjust the jet all the way in, then back out 1 1/2 turns, are you talking about the main adjuster (big knob on the right side as you're facing the carb), or the idle adjustment screw to the left of it? Thanks...

 

[Stimw]

The only thing you need from a carb kit is the gaskets because these carbs are so simple. If you can get it apart without damaging the gaskets you shouldn't need a kit.
Another area to check out is the fitting on the bottom of the gas tank. It is also a reserve tank fitting.
In regular position the fuel comes from the top of the fitting leaving a couple gallons in the bottom of the tank.
When you open the reserve the fitting lets fuel come from the bottom of the tank using up the reserve.
I have had to clean these fittings because they get crud in them from age.

 

[Garycw]

Just to make sure I understand, to adjust the jet all the way in, then back out 1 1/2 turns, are you talking about the main adjuster (big knob on the right side as you're facing the carb), or the idle adjustment screw to the left of it? Thanks...

I'm not exactly sure without seeing it. This is how I do the carbs on the 801's. I would think they're similar. Most of the time my issue it the float valve sticking. Once the pin that holds the bracket in the float came out in one side. Like was mentioned. They're simple, just take apart completely, clean with carb spray and re assemble. Careful not to strip bowl threads where fuel line connects.