Ford 1710 Injection pump malfunction

nadaclue · May 25, 2018

I fear my injection pump has gone south. I have good fuel flow to the banjo fitting inlet, but with all injector lines off, it barely spits fuel from the outlet ports. I've tried to remove the pump following the steps in the service manual without success.
Problem1: I'm instructed to align gear and coupling marks after removing the gear coverplate in front of engine. I see no gears, I see the coupler nut on the shaft and three bolts on the coupler, but no gears.
Problem 2: I decided to remove the pump entirely, by removing shaft coupler nut, and two nuts on the pump casing, but the keyed shaft refuses to back out of the gear. (and I've used plenty of persuasion).
Is there something I can do before to diagnose the problem before I remove the pump completely? If I must remove the pump for service, any hints on how to remove? Must the gears be aligned for removal, or is this just to facilitate correct timing when pump is reinstalled? I'd hate to damage something by using too much brute force. It"s a kikidiesel pump if that matters.

thepumpguysc · May 26, 2018

The front gear & pump drive shaft are a tapered fit.. requiring a "puller" to separate..
There are 4 bolts holding the pump onto the engine.. 2 in front you can see & 2 behind the pump.. same location but on the "back side"..
The timing is set-up "before removal" for ease of reinstallation..
You'll never get it right if you pull the pump off 1st.!!!!!
Bolt it all back up.!!
Remove the side cover on the pump.. The screws are VERY TIGHT & SOFT.. you need a hand impact driver & a hammer to remove them..
The control rack in the pump is probably stuck.. There are MANY threads about it.. I KNOW cuz I've solved 90% of them..

nadaclue · May 27, 2018

Wow, that's good to know there are 2 bolts on the back side of the pump. Service manual doesn't mention them. I've not taken it out, so timing still OK. I'll open up inspection panel and check out rack action. Thanks!

nadaclue · May 28, 2018

Rack moves freely, springs move up/down with cam. Push rods inside spring body rotate when I manually actuate rack. Took off delivery caps and held finger on delivery valves. It appears one of them has no up/down action. How do I dissemble spring/push rod mechanism to inspect?

thepumpguysc · May 29, 2018

Its very common for the valves in the delivery valve to get stuck..
Seeing you have it off already.. clamp it in a vise.. remove the delivery valve holders one at a time..
Remove the spring & Inspect the center valve, making sure it can go up & down freely..
If the rack moves & the PLUNGERS go up & down{no push rods} & the delivery valves are free.. Theres no reason other than the plungers are worn out, that it shouldn't pump..
BTW> the DV holders must be torqued to 30-35 FTlbs..
Inorder to get the plungers out, the governor has to be disassembled, the tappets have to be compressed, the camshaft removed & they come out from the bottom..
I DONT recommend you try this.!!! There are a lot of small parts & shims in the governor.. & if lost.. VERY VERY hard to replace..
& IF you do find "something" wrong w/ the pump.. where are you gonna order parts from??

nadaclue · May 30, 2018

My plan is to shuffle delivery valves to other ports and see if the problem follows a particular valve. I'm also going to hand rotate ( as soon as I figure out rotation direction) and measure with a micrometer the up/down movement of the delivery valves. I understand the plungers actuate the valves, but what pressurizes the fuel for delivery? In picture, what is circled adjustment for?

thepumpguysc · May 30, 2018

Dude.. your way over your head..
That circled area is just a bleed screw.. you shoulda opened THAT to get the air out between the tank & the inj. pump.. THEN loosened the lines AT the injectors & spin the engine till fuel squirted out.. tightened & started the engine..
Whatever your trying to prove w/ a micrometer?? no such test.. is pointless..
Remove the holder, on top.. remove the spring.. the delivery valve is made up of 2 pieces.. the outer body & the valve that moves up & down..
The VALVE should move freely in the body.. The "valve" is held down by the spring & the body is held down by the holder..
The delivery valves ARE MATCHED.. don't take the valves from 1 & try to put it in the other..

nadaclue · Jun 4, 2018

I'm going to send the pump out to a diesel repair center. You right, I'm out of my element. That's what you get when an electrical engineer attempts mechanical repair. Thanks for the help.