Ford 1700 Hydraulic Problem

[teachag]

The water pump went out on my Ford 1700 and while I had it in the shop, I decided to change all of the fluids and filters. I drained the hydraulic fluid/gear oil and it was a little dirty but not bad. I replaced the hydraulic filter because it was damaged and refilled it with the New Holland fluid that the dealer told me had replaced Ford 134 fluid.

I fired the tractor up and got no movement on the hydraulics. I thought it might be a pump prime issue so first I tried filling the supply/low pressure line with a syringe. Still nothing so I cracked the banjo bolt at the pump on the supply and pressurized the case with compressed air through the breather. Fluid came out the supply line. I closed the banjo and started the tractor again. Still nothing. I tried cracking the high pressure line banjo bolt and pressurized the case again. Oil came out on that side as well. I tried starting it and pressurizing the case. The 3pt still would not move. I disconnected the draft arms to get all of the weight off and tried it (no air pressure this time) and the arms came up slowly. If they are up, I can put my weight on them and they will stay but if I push down on them when I am trying to raise them they will stop.

I am baffled. There were no hydraulic problems before I changed the fluid and filter. Does anyone have any ideas? Thanks in advance.

 

[Btown]

By filter you mean the metal strainer. Are u getting fluid past the new strainer?

 

[teachag]

By filter you mean the metal strainer. Are u getting fluid past the new strainer?

Yes and yes. I pressurized the case with air and cracked the banjo bolt on the pump end of the suction line and it pushed fluid out. Though it could be semi restricted and flowing slow? Another thought my brother-in-law had was that I could have loosened up some crud that jammed the relief valve part way open which would explain low pressure.

 

[JC-jetro]

You might remove the relief valve nuts with the valve ans spring put a bucket under and side ways to catch any drippage and see if you can induce flow. if no flow then flood the discharge line with oil and try again. might put palm your hand on the discharge and close and open the discharge to pulsate the flow and that might start the flow. I have also taken the bottom of the diffy oil drain off and nothing cam out, took a piece of wire and made a hook and pulled what it looked like a rat from the bottom. After I took the banjo and screen off I vacuumed with a shop vac the bottom of diify and had two quarts of what looked like a cheese curd. I then put all back and with new oil and it took just 15 second for the pump to self prime. pump inlet is lower than diffy intake so it is self priming if you have adequate oil in diffy/transmission.

JC,

 

[trmechapt]

the fluid should flow out the banjo bolt freely. if it doesn't the strainer is stopped up. it is on the flange that the banjo bolt is threaded to. The new fluid cleaned the sealer that the factory put on the casting during assembly.(my theory) When I was at the dealership we had to clean quite a few tractors out after we changed the oil.