Ford 1700 and 770 FEL - Help?

[cmow1700]

Just found this site - looks awesome.

I'm an owner of a Ford 1700 with a 770 loader. I recently had it into the dealer to have the clutch replaced. Just got a chance to try it out, and it came back from the dealer with a couple of issues that weren't there before.

First, it does not appear that my 4WD is engaging. I have a very hilly property that I bushhog, and I need this feature - the rear differential lock saved me the first time I tried mowing, though. Is there anything easy I can look at to figure out what may be wrong, and take care of it myself instead of having to drag it back to the dealer??

Also, one of my hydraulic cylinders on the loader (for tipping the bucket) has now developed a pretty good leak - I think it may have been very slowly leaking before. I'm assuming that I may just need a new seal - I've never had any experience with hydraulic cylinders - is that something a do-it-yourselfer can tackle?

Any advice would be appreciated...

 

[Hooked_on_HP]

Does the lever for the 4wd move? When they split the tractor they had to remove the front driveshaft.It is possible the didn't get the coupler one one end on properly when they reassembled it. I would contact the dealer. The seal on the loader cyl. is not that hard of a project. If there are nicks or pit marks from rust on the shaft new seals wont last.
Bill

 

[JC-jetro]

Bill,

I don't think it is necessary to remove transmission input shaft to do a clutch replacement. Did you mean drive shaft going to front wheels? The 4wd Engorgement lever is on top of transmission under in front of the operator seat. Why would the dealer want to dork with it?

To OP, did the 4 WD mechanism worked prior to repair? Would it jump out of 4WD? what happens when you try to engage 4wd?

I'm wondering if the splines on the drive shaft is actually meshing with the coupler.

JC,


Bill, I re read your post... You said what I was thinking as well. somehow the drive shaft is not coupled right and not spinning or only is spinning transmission side.

 

[JC-jetro]

Just found this site - looks awesome.



First, it does not appear that my 4WD is engaging. yourselfer can tackle?

Any advice would be appreciated...

One more thing. With the engine off, 4WD lever engaged, front axle jacked up and are you then able to turn the front wheels freely with a bit of effort. If so that might indicated that front wheel drive shaft somehow is not spline d properly to front differential. There is a protective metal tube that can be removes at least partially to expose the inner drive shaft. I take a look in there too.

JC,

 

[cmow1700]

The 4WD lever does move. It worked before, and never jumped out of 4WD, I guess I would say that nothing really happens when I flip the lever. I just noticed when I was going up a hill that the front wheels were not assisting when I lost traction. I tried the lever in the "off" position, too thinking that they might have installed something backwards. Is there anything I can look at externally? Would it have to be split again to look internally? They really killed me on labor cost the first time and I don't want to sink a whole lot of money in it if I can do something myself.

Any ideas on the hydraulic cylinder?

I haven't had much experience as a mechanic, but I'm not real scared if I have some direction - I've fixed a few things on it in the past couple of years just based on the I&T manual.

Thanks for your help.

 

[jimmysisson]

cmow, if your 4wd worked before the dealer trip and doesn't since - it's plainly something the dealer did (or didn't). The dealer is responsible for the change in status, assuming you noticed and reported it to him right away. Not sure why you think you have to fix it, except you're not crazy about his pricing?
Jim

 

[ROUSTABOUT]

You can fix the cylinder yourself. To me, the little ones are harder to fix than the big ones. I would much rather fix a flat on a rear tractor tire, than the front tire of a lawn mower. Seriously, though, take the cylinder off, get the fluid out of it. Unscrew the tube end, where the rod goes through, into the barrel of the cylinder. Some are held with a wire clip, that you have to "spin" out. On some cylinders, things have changed so you may need to take your parts and see if you can get replacement soft parts, or you may need to order the complete gland. Just ran into that on a Ford backhoe. Just watch how you take everything apart and replace in the same order and direction. The little teflon ring is hard, and has to be squeezed up like a pretzell to be installed. That one is usually the hardest. When you take the piston off, don't take any plastic/rubber off of it until you see what parts you can get for it. Some, you can only order a new piston. I usually have everything drenched in oil when re assembling. I stand the barrel up on the floor, if it is a cylinder I can handle, and start the piston into the barrel, rotating it like a womans waist does in a hula hoop, pressing downward at the same time. Things usually go well and it goes back together. Be sure to measure distance between pins so when you put it back together, you will be close to where it was when you took it out. Sometimes saves some trouble if you are by yourself. I just blew a line on my crane a few minutes ago, so I am going out to take it off and get a new one made, will check back later, good luck.