Ford 1600 Alternator

[Texas Blues]

For those interested, I repaired my 1600 alternator. I replaced the diode array, it was completely shorted. I took a couple of reference photos for those who may find them useful. These pics are of the new diode array slid down into the alternator, it was easy to remove. In pic no.1, unsolder the three wires indicated (do not cut them, you will need all the lenght you can get). In pic no.2, remove the two nuts indicated (one nut is already off in the picture) and then move the unsoldered wires out of the way of the seperator plate indicated by the last arrow. The right side of the plate holds two wires in place and the left side holds one wire. Just flex the wires towards the outside edge of the alt far enough for them to be out of the way. Dont mix them up, they need to go back where they came from in the right order. Once the wires are unsoldered and the nuts removed, the diode array slides out of the alternator. Sorry, I should have taken pictures with it out, but I didnt. The seperator plate just comes off of the old array, and you swap it over to the new array. Slide the new array and sep plate down in the alternator, and work the 3 wires back in place in thier proper place in the seperator plate. Install the two nuts. Bend the wires back in place over the new array connectors and solder them down(in pic 1 the wires havent been soldered yet). Thats pretty much it, it was real easy. The part number I used on the new diode array was IHR1000HD-1. I found one at a local alternator/starter repair shop. It was only $14.92. Turned out to be a very inexpensive repair. One last thing, this alternator is the same as the one on my 1700 (which doesnt charge either) so I will be fixing that one soon. Hope this helps someone out there. TB

 

[JC-jetro]

For those interested, I repaired my 1600 alternator. I replaced the diode array, it was completely shorted. I took a couple of reference photos for those who may find them useful. These pics are of the new diode array slid down into the alternator, it was easy to remove. In pic no.1, unsolder the three wires indicated (do not cut them, you will need all the lenght you can get). In pic no.2, remove the two nuts indicated (one nut is already off in the picture) and then move the unsoldered wires out of the way of the seperator plate indicated by the last arrow. The right side of the plate holds two wires in place and the left side holds one wire. Just flex the wires towards the outside edge of the alt far enough for them to be out of the way. Dont mix them up, they need to go back where they came from in the right order. Once the wires are unsoldered and the nuts removed, the diode array slides out of the alternator. Sorry, I should have taken pictures with it out, but I didnt. The seperator plate just comes off of the old array, and you swap it over to the new array. Slide the new array and sep plate down in the alternator, and work the 3 wires back in place in thier proper place in the seperator plate. Install the two nuts. Bend the wires back in place over the new array connectors and solder them down(in pic 1 the wires havent been soldered yet). Thats pretty much it, it was real easy. The part number I used on the new diode array was IHR1000HD-1. I found one at a local alternator/starter repair shop. It was only $14.92. Turned out to be a very inexpensive repair. One last thing, this alternator is the same as the one on my 1700 (which doesnt charge either) so I will be fixing that one soon. Hope this helps someone out there. TB

Hey TB, Good Information buddy, I have done several alt repairs specially on GM cars, (Diode Trio under $5) with even less trouble, don't even need to solder the diode set. So you're sure the alternators are the same between 1700 and 1600? if so I just might buy a diode set for future use. My experience is 8 out of 10 the issue with an alternator is the rectifying bridge.

Thanks,
JC,

 

[Texas Blues]

Yea JC, there were two different types of alternators for the 1600 according to the parts list, depending on the year. I believe mine is the newer version. The 1700 only shows one type alt in the parts list, the same as the one in my 1600. The older type in the 1600 looks like it has a different diode array in it. Anyhow, the part numbers for the diode is the same for my 1700 as it is for my 1600. I suppose the alt itself could be shaped slightly different, but takes the same diode number (SBA185446047) which I think changed to 83920314. I also changed the rear bearing in it, sorry but didnt take any photos of that part of the process. The center race was cracked and had a bad flat spot. Thanks, TB