Flail Mower Floating hitch on flail mower?

[montejw]

I just bought an old Mott flail mower. It has a 3 pt hitch attachment that has been modified and is rigid like on a box blade. Should there be a floating type of attachment for the top link? Does the 3 pt hitch put down pressure on the mower? It follows the ground for the most part. If I had a floating top link attachment I think the blades would go up and down with respect to the ground as the tractor went over rolling sort of bumps. There aren't any skid rails on the mower. The only thing to keep the height right is the roller and lower arms of the 3 pt hitch.

Monte

 

[RHughes]

Monte,
It would be good to see a picture. I don't think I've ever seen a flail mower with a floating toplink. The floating toplink on rotary mowers is designed to relieve the torque and stress that would otherwise be placed on the hitch when the *back* of the mower goes up and down. This is because a rotary mower is a lot longer and sticks out much further.

You are correct in that the height adjustment on Mott/Alamo mowers (and probably others) is made by moving the back roller up and down. My Alamo also has replaceable skid shoes on the side panels; Check and see that some previous owner didn't remove the ones on your machine or just let them wear out and not replace them.

Regards!

 

[greg_g]

Well, I use flexible top link brackets extensively. But they're all on implements that have ground contact (wheels). If your flail mower is simply suspended by the TPH, I don't see any pressing need for a flexible toplink bracket

//greg//

 

[montejw]

Well, I use flexible top link brackets extensively. But they're all on implements that have ground contact (wheels). If your flail mower is simply suspended by the TPH, I don't see any pressing need for a flexible toplink bracket

//greg//

Not totally suspended, it sits on the back roller, just like a brush mower sits on the rear wheel. Only difference is the flail mower is a lot shorter than the brush mower. The roller is the full width of the mower.

Monte

 

[greg_g]

Not totally suspended, it sits on the back roller, just like a brush mower sits on the rear wheel. Only difference is the flail mower is a lot shorter than the brush mower. The roller is the full width of the mower.

Monte

Hmmm, I thought that was just intended as an anti-scalp roller. I didn't know it was suppose to actually ride on it. I'm thinking you might wanna set the thing so that roller is an inch or two above solid ground while mowing. But I've never actually seen this specific flail mower, so I am standing by to be corrected.

//greg//

 

[montejw]

Hmmm, I thought that was just intended as an anti-scalp roller. I didn't know it was suppose to actually ride on it. I'm thinking you might wanna set the thing so that roller is an inch or two above solid ground while mowing. But I've never actually seen this specific flail mower, so I am standing by to be corrected.

//greg//

Not sure that would work, suspending it. It would go up and down as the tractor went over bumps and not follow the ground itself. I just drop the 3pt hitch all the way down and let the mower ride the ground. By tilting it with the toplink I can set the depth of cut. Not sure that's the 'proper' way, but it worked the one time I've used it.

Monte

 

[greg_g]

Well, keep a very very close eye on the roller brackets AND the roller face. Unless it's designed specifically to take 100% of the shock load of that mower, you'll likely bend the brackets and crack/break/lose the roller.

Then again, I keyed on the fact that you used the word "roller" in the singular. If you've got the design where a series of several rollers are side by side on a common shaft that extends the entire width of the mower - that's a different story. I understand those to the the type where you actually adjust cutting height with the roller bar - so it should in fact be designed to take the shock load.

//greg//

 

[montejw]

Well, keep a very very close eye on the roller brackets AND the roller face. Unless it's designed specifically to take 100% of the shock load of that mower, you'll likely bend the brackets and crack/break/lose the roller.

Then again, I keyed on the fact that you used the word "roller" in the singular. If you've got the design where a series of several rollers are side by side on a common shaft that extends the entire width of the mower - that's a different story. I understand those to the the type where you actually adjust cutting height with the roller bar - so it should in fact be designed to take the shock load.

//greg//

One roller, full width, about 3"-4" in diameter, it's heavy, a big bearing on each end each with a grease fitting, heavy cast fitting with (2) 1/2" bolts each end holding them to the mower. Seems like it's sized to take the weight to me. But I don't have an owner's manual.

Monte

 

[greg_g]

If the roller bar has holes or slots or some visible mechanism designed to regulate cutting height, then you can be reasonably confident that it will handle the weight. If it doesn't have one, I'd recommend getting a floating toplink bracket. That way you can keep the toplink attached without the issues you described initially.

Here's a link ( Land Pride Flail*Mowers ) to some flail mower manuals. I know they're not specific to your Mott, but it may help you with some perspective. And note that the operator's manuals state their FMs have a " 3-point hitch system on this mower has been designed for front to back flotation when mowing on uneven terrain. "

If your Mott has that, you won't even need the floating toplink bracket.

//greg//

 

[montejw]

If the roller bar has holes or slots or some visible mechanism designed to regulate cutting height, then you can be reasonably confident that it will handle the weight. If it doesn't have one, I'd recommend getting a floating toplink bracket. That way you can keep the toplink attached without the issues you described initially.

Here's a link ( Land Pride Flail*Mowers ) to some flail mower manuals. I know they're not specific to your Mott, but it may help you with some perspective. And note that the operator's manuals state their FMs have a " 3-point hitch system on this mower has been designed for front to back flotation when mowing on uneven terrain. "

If your Mott has that, you won't even need the floating toplink bracket.

//greg//

There is a way to adjust the roller height. The 3pt hitch on the mower has been modified slightly, it's a rigid hitch like on a back blade, no floating mechanism. I guess my main concern is with the tractor 3pt hitch, mine doesn't have a float position. So I'm guessing that if the tractor rear wheels go into a slight depression it (the 3 pt hitch) can put down pressure on the mower. I could easily fabricate a floating link for the toplink on the mower hitch, but then as the rear wheels go up and down before the mower hits the same depressions and bumps, the depth of cut is going to change because the front of the mower is going up and down.

I'll look at the manuals you link to, see if I can find a generic operating setup.

Edit: I should say that the 3pt hitch on the mower has been modified, but I don't know what it used to be. Now at least it is just like on a back blade, 3 points, no float mechanism, rigid.

Thanks,
Monte