Float Valve added to Hydraulics on Dump Trailer

[irsmun]

I have a new dump trailer and something has become blindingly apparent. It won't work without a good charged battery, and a good charged battery doesn't last long.

I'm working to solve the battery issues so we never run into that problem but I think a hydraulic mod would also help if it can be done. The cylinders are double acting and so the trailer is power up/ power down only. This is a problem for two reasons. One, it uses more battery to lower it (and its slow), and two, if the battery does go out before it is lowered, the trailer is stuck there until you can power it down all the way.

My question is, can I add a float type valve in line with a release button that will allow it to act the way a single acting cylinder would and let gravity lower the bed? I would actually prefer to mod it this way for regular use not just in an emergency to save on time and battery.

 

[Leejohn]

Yes I use one of these HYDRA FORCE 12 VDC N.C. SOLENOID VALVE

 

[Leejohn]

BTY you tee the pressure line and run the out from valve to tank. You might have to take the down hose loose from the pump, then you well have a single acting cylinder. Don't forget a vent on the down side port at the cyl.

 

[irsmun]

Awesome. You will have to excuse my ignorance but I'm a visual guy.

You got picture or drawing? I think I understand but before I go pulling hoses and installing I like to know the plan.

 

[lt190b]

irsmun, what are you doing to solve the battery issue?

 

[davedj1]

Most newer trucks have a hot wire from the battery in the truck to the 7 way plug at the rear, I have my dump trailer wired so the battery charges from the truck when it's plugged in. I know I'm not maxing my trailer out every time I dump it but I can get quite a few dumps off just the battery. I have a good deep cycle marine battery. I also disconnect the battery if the trailer is to sit more than a week. I just added power down to mine so hopefully it will be faster in the winter than gravity down. I also run ATF for fluid year round.

 

[Cord]

Yes, I made a simular mod to a past dump trailer. For that one, I mounted a bulkhead type valve to the box so I could actuate it without reaching in. A T installed between the pump and cylinder supplied the valve and then another line returned back to the tank. It worked great.

 

[muddstopper]

I added a set of these Anderson Power Products Connector, Wire/Cable 6319 | Zoro.com to the back of my truck. I found that the hot wire in the trailer plug wouldnt keep up with chargeing if I had to make several dumps in a short time span. I now just plug the trailer battery into the anderson connectors and it will keep the battery at full charge and if the truck is running, I can tell a big difference in speed. My dump cyl is also a double acting cyl, but I used a vickers solenoid valve, similar to the hydraforce, that dumps back to tank for lowering.

 

[jenkinsph]

As mentioned you can plumb in a bypass valve to lower the dump bed with gravity. Just make sure that when the bypass valve is not being used that the cylinder reverts back to double acting if the front of the bed does not have a latch. On PJ dump beds and others the cylinder holds the dump bed in place while trailering. The double acting cylinder is needed to hold the bed down in place.

 

[LD1]

Assuming this is a 12v pump and 12v solenoids???? For the solenoid that lowers the trailer.....unhook the pump lead. That way the battery is only energizing the coil to open the valve, but not run the pump.