Chains Fitting rear chains?

[Royboy]

My rear chains are on as tight as I can get them and yet have a lot of floppy play in them. They don't hit the fenders, at least not at the slow speeds I have driven. It seems I may have to remove a cross link to snug them up some. How can I tell for sure and if I need to remove one and what is the best way to do this short of buying the chain repair tool from Tirechain.com?
Thanks!

 

[mustangsallysdad]

My rear chains are on as tight as I can get them and yet have a lot of floppy play in them. They don't hit the fenders, at least not at the slow speeds I have driven. It seems I may have to remove a cross link to snug them up some. How can I tell for sure and if I need to remove one and what is the best way to do this short of buying the chain repair tool from Tirechain.com?
Thanks!

I've used bolt cutters in the past...worked great...last time I took out cross links I actually had to take out 1 more than I needed and reconnected with a "hammer link" to get the connection made and end up with the desired length.

 

[RoyJackson]

First..I'm a novice with chains myself...
However, the threads on TBN discussing chains recommend some slop (you should be able to get your fist between the tire and chain when the chain is lifted from the tire).
So, before you cut...do some more research of fitting chains to tractor tires. Try using "fitting chains to tractor tires" as a search phrase.

 

[tommu56]

If you want to open up cross chain connector to side chain I put them side their side over a pipe nipple and tap a chisel down to open them up and slip them off side chain to close a big pair of channel locks will do.

The side links bolt cutters, cut off tool, hack saw are my preferance in that order.

tom

 

[varmint]

I just fitted a pair of euro style "net" chains to my tractor's turfs. In consultation with tirechain.com guys, I removed some of the side links with a bolt cutter (not hardened) but removing some of the cross links, which were hardened, required a small abrasive wheel cutter. The attaching links were malleable, so no problem. The Tirechain guys, and others with experience, told me that you want them tight, both for the tire's sake and for the long life of the chain. They work better, too. Some have recommend softening the tire pressure, installing the chains, and pumping the tires back up, but I have been discouraged from that. My style chains have no need for additional tensioners, and they quickly adjust.
I attached the foto so you can see what "net" chains look like. they are supposed to be very good for on road use. I like 'em.

 

[beenthere]

Sorry varmint, but that looks like a mess. No offense, but I can't imagine that those chains are close to being the right size for your tires.

A lot of chain sets are sold that fall into the "few sizes fit all tires" category. Much less inventory doing it that way, but are supplied way oversize for some tires.
A key is the length of the cross chains. They should only reach across the surface of the tire and down the side as far as you want them to go. If they don't need to be shortened, then fit/cut the inside side-chain to the length that leaves a good circle (no dips). Then fit/cut the outside side-chain to the hand-tight length leaving two links free for mounting the chain next time. Should need no tighteners if the chains are fitted to the tires.

 

[mustangsallysdad]

Sorry varmint, but that looks like a mess. No offense, but I can't imagine that those chains are close to being the right size for your tires.

A lot of chain sets are sold that fall into the "few sizes fit all tires" category. Much less inventory doing it that way, but are supplied way oversize for some tires.
A key is the length of the cross chains. They should only reach across the surface of the tire and down the side as far as you want them to go. If they don't need to be shortened, then fit/cut the inside side-chain to the length that leaves a good circle (no dips). Then fit/cut the outside side-chain to the hand-tight length leaving two links free for mounting the chain next time. Should need no tighteners if the chains are fitted to the tires.

I don't know about them being a mess...but I think I saw that type of chain being used on EVERYTHING in England quite awhile ago (trucks, cabs and passenger cars)...and they're not cheap, either (we're talking several hundreds). By the way...did you know that their steering wheels are on the wrong side over there? Ha Ha

 

[sal64]

put bungies through weel hub

 

[beenthere]

put bungies through weel hub

Why?
A bungie has no strength to hold the chains from anything but flopping around because they are not fit properly. (the way I see it )

 

[Chilly807]

First..I'm a novice with chains myself...
However, the threads on TBN discussing chains recommend some slop (you should be able to get your fist between the tire and chain when the chain is lifted from the tire).
So, before you cut...do some more research of fitting chains to tractor tires. Try using "fitting chains to tractor tires" as a search phrase.

Roy`s right, at least according to some chain manufacturers. Mine says exactly that, and they work great. According to Norse (net style) the chain should actually rotate around the tire 30-50 cm for every kilometer you drive. Mine do.

Here`s a good link..

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/owning-operating/161040-tractor-tire-chain-spring-tensioners.html

Chilly