First time plowing

FrankNOhio · May 9, 2012

First time farmer and for the past year(s) I've been walking the property, studying the land's characteristics (run-off, soil sampling, tree shade, etc) About finished clearing brush and timber for crops. Since there isn't a flat part on the 40 acre parcel, we've decided and are in preparation for some rows of lavender, blueberries and the start of a vineyard. My Boomer 40 has been invaluable for all this work.

There's a nice rolling pasture that's supposedly been fallow for decades. I'm looking to plow, then till it, for the lavender rows. I won't be planting any of the above until next year as I amend the soil as needed for each of the crops later this fall. I'm just wanting to get acclimated to the plow and kinda mark out the areas to be cultivated.

I've cut the grass/weeds and walked the areas over and over looking for stones, stumps and anything that could cause a problem. Far enough away from all water and utility lines. I've pulled up pretty much all that I found (discovered an overgrown and buried stash of bricks 8 inches below the surface extending down about 12 feet! At least I've got bricks to use for something...first thing I pull out of the ground is a crop of bricks, :laughing

.

Just wondering if there are any tips for a first time plow if/when I should hit something that I did not catch like a big stone or hidden boulder. That's my biggest worry.

Any advise is appreciated.

JC-jetro · May 9, 2012

You can use a potato plow/sub-soiler just to disturb and scratch the garden site 12" deep or so. That could expose things you did not find in the first go around. May be tilling would be a better option then than using a one or two bottom plow.

Jc,

DAY · May 9, 2012

Go to:
How To Video Demos - Implements & Attachments
And pick out a video on just about anything!
You can watch them in the privacy of your own home, and avoid embarrassment!:laughing: (spoken by someone who attempted moldboard plowing years ago- without the benefit of instruction!)

vtsnowedin · May 9, 2012

FrankNOhio said:
First time farmer and for the past year(s) I've been walking the property, studying the land's characteristics (run-off, soil sampling, tree shade, etc) About finished clearing brush and timber for crops. Since there isn't a flat part on the 40 acre parcel, we've decided and are in preparation for some rows of lavender, blueberries and the start of a vineyard. My Boomer 40 has been invaluable for all this work.

There's a nice rolling pasture that's supposedly been fallow for decades. I'm looking to plow, then till it, for the lavender rows. I won't be planting any of the above until next year as I amend the soil as needed for each of the crops later this fall. I'm just wanting to get acclimated to the plow and kinda mark out the areas to be cultivated.

I've cut the grass/weeds and walked the areas over and over looking for stones, stumps and anything that could cause a problem. Far enough away from all water and utility lines. I've pulled up pretty much all that I found (discovered an overgrown and buried stash of bricks 8 inches below the surface extending down about 12 feet! At least I've got bricks to use for something...first thing I pull out of the ground is a crop of bricks, :laughing.

Just wondering if there are any tips for a first time plow if/when I should hit something that I did not catch like a big stone or hidden boulder. That's my biggest worry.

Any advise is appreciated.

Compare to many on TBN I am a newbie at plowing myself but for what it is worth.:
Any chance that the property used to have a brickyard where they made bricks? If so you have clay subsoil that you don't want to plow up to the surface as it does not support good growth.
Your in Ohio which compared to VT doesn't have a rock init so most of my experience won't help you. I spent a lot of time catching on rocks ,spinning wheels and trying to break things on the 3PH and the plow.
Proper set up of your plows is crucial. After the first pass the tractor runs tilted with the right side tires in the dead furrow with the left side tires up on the old ground. To get the plow shares to run level with the ground you have to adjust up the right side lift arm to make up the eight inch difference. You can't do this in advance as they need to be level with the tractor to make the first pass.
Use the top link adjustment to get the plows pointed level with the ground ,not points tipped down catching on rocks and sucking deeper or points tilted up trying to float up out of the ground. You can get that one pretty close when you hitch on on the shop floor but it needs to be right with the plows down at your plowing depth not when it is up level with the bottom of the rear tires.
When your plowing up old ground with grass sod you need coulters to slice through the sod before the plowshares start to lift and turn it. Some debate about proper adjustment and cutting depth but for starters start with them set 3/4" to the left of the cutting face of the plow share and four inches deep to cut through most of the roots in the sod. If the sliced off furrow rolls up cleanly and completely over to bury all the grass upside down your there. Adjust as needed.
Plow as close to the contour lines of the land as is practical to minimise soil erosion. Never plow straight down a slope as you will just build a series of ditches for throwing away your topsoil to the nearest river. Leave at least eight foot wide grass strips along the bottom of the slope to catch any soil that does wash down before it gets to the ditch or stream that the field drains into.
If its flat enough (I never had this) plow to roll the ground away from the river. Otherwise roll it down hill letting gravity help you ,not fight you. You can take the sod from the first furrow with your FEL and use it to fill in the dead furrow at the top of the field making up for the amount you moved the topsoil on the field towards the river.
There that should get the conversation started.

Fossil Farm · May 9, 2012

If you have time, you may want to check at the library or the local soil and water conservation district office. They may have the old aerial photos from many years back to see what was in the pasture area you plan on plowing. May help give you a heads up of what used to be there. If there are bricks, I guess it was never strip mined for coal, or at least not very recently. Depending on the county, some libraries or offices have aerial photos back to the 1940's or so. good luck.

FrankNOhio · May 9, 2012

Fossil, that's an interesting idea. I did use Google Earth's 'back in time' function, but it only goes back about 10 -15 years in this area. From what the previous owner told me and from the 'archeological' poking around I've done on the property, it's been a homestead from way back (unearthed a couple of old and buried stone walls; various fence lines; and what seems to have been a backwoods 'chop shop'). Until the owner built this house on it, it had been a hunting plot.

Vtswowedin, the bricks seem to have been the result of a demolition of what must have been one of the old homestead homes that had been here. The bricks are mixed old 'Nelsonville' and 'Athens Block' bricks, both of which are no longer being produced now. May be able to auction them off on ebay to help pay for any mistakes I make plowing, hehe.

By the way, the soil is indeed mostly clay. Grass growth varies from front to back of property, but as mentioned, there isn't a flat line anywhere. I did figure on plowing the contours as someone had mentioned.

I am a bit curious about JC-jetro's comment about tilling. Did you mean to say try tilling instead of plowing at first? I do have a Land Pride rototiller I figured on using after plowing. But if tilling first would help 'navigate' the ground first, ... interesting.

And as for the sub soiler, I had considered getting a sub soiler from Tractor Supply, but hadn't thought to run it where I'd planned to plow. Guess it would also help in the drainage as well.

I really appreciate the time and words here. I'll think on all this and let you know what damage I do.

Thanks much.
Frank

DAY · May 10, 2012

You can look at aerial photos of "your" place, taken in various years. What I thought was a old building on my property, was not there in 1955!
NETR Online • Historic Aerials

JC-jetro · May 10, 2012

FrankNOhio said:
op'). Until the owner built this house on it, it had been a hunting plot.

I am a bit curious about JC-jetro's comment about tilling. Did you mean to say try tilling instead of plowing at first? I do have a Land Pride rototiller I figured on using after plowing. But if tilling first would help 'navigate' the ground first, ... interesting.

And as for the sub soiler, I had considered getting a sub soiler from Tractor Supply, but hadn't thought to run it where I'd planned to plow. Guess it would also help in the drainage as well.

I really appreciate the time and words here. I'll think on all this and let you know what damage I do.

Thanks much.
Frank

Frank,

I did mean tilling after plowing. The reason I suggested potato plow was even if you hit a the rock with it for most part it will bring the rock up safely to one side of the plow to be picked up. I though all you wanted to do was plowing only and that might not get you the best soil condition for growing. Look at the link below. My garden site was pretty good and did not have much rock.

JC,

l
http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/projects/99323-my-tomato-garden.html

FrankNOhio · May 10, 2012

JC, I understand and will consider getting a sub soiler. Like you mentioned in your linked page, after all the time and implements bought, the first crop will be the most expensive blueberries I'd ever had eaten.

You bed looks good. Where'd you get the earth fabric? Online or local?

Thanks very much for your guidance here.
F.

JC-jetro · May 10, 2012

FrankNOhio said:
JC, I understand and will consider getting a sub soiler. Like you mentioned in your linked page, after all the time and implements bought, the first crop will be the most expensive blueberries I'd ever had eaten.

You bed looks good. Where'd you get the earth fabric? Online or local?

Thanks very much for your guidance here.
F.

I picked up that potato plow from TSC for $120 and it can be used for several different things such as making rows shallow trenches. Yo can also attach different sweeps to go deep and narrow also. Earth Fabric is very good but is very cost prohibitive. I was able to use it for two years. On one of my jobs, the contractor was from out of town, and they ended up with a half of roll of stuff at the end of the job. They were getting ready to pitch it as I intercepted the merchandize

. I told them leave it be and gave half to one of our construction techs ( a Gardner) and myself. It's great but you triple the cost of of your blue berries right away.

Weed control must be absolutely the toughest challenge for a Gardner specially going organic like myself.

JC<