Finish v Brad Nailer

[MikePA]

Could someone describe a situation where you'd use one over the other? There are finish nailers that can shoot 3/4" to 2.5" 16 gauge nails while the brad nailer use about the same length nails, only 18 gauge. Just curious why someone would need both.

 

[Robert_in_NY]

depending on what trim you are using. We use both when we trim a door. we use 1"-1.5" brads on the inside of the trim that is being nailed to the door itself and 2.5" finish nails on the outside of the trim that has to go thru the trim as well as the drywall or plaster and lath. The heavier gauge keeps the nail from bending as easily while the lighter gauge brads keep from spliting the wood along the doors and windows. Hope this helps some.

 

[Robert_in_NY]

Forgot to add the head size is different as well so the finish nails hold a little more then the brads but leave a bigger hole.

 

[MikePA]

Thanks, Robert, that clears it up. /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

BTW, what kind of hoses do you prefer, rubber or polyurethane?

 

[Robert_in_NY]

I like rubber as it does not hold form. Having said that all the hoses we have are poly. Why? Because they are a lot cheaper and hoses take a beating on jobsites. Down at the machine shop we do work for they have all rubber hoses which is nice as they just lay flat and don't stay coiled when you try to move them around. If all we did was inside work then we would switch to rubber but it is easier to just have one style of hose to work with then to constantly switch back and forth. Roofing is the hardest on the hoses as the hose just hangs and puts a lot of stress on the connectors.

 

[Henro]

Mike,

You may already be aware of this, but there are some combo brad nailer/stablers.

The problem with them is that because they must drive both, the "hammer" that drives the the brad/stable is wide and leaves a slot impression, rather than a point impression, when a brad is driven.

I am happier having one of each. That slot indention in the wood would bother me each time I drove a brad I think...

 

[fivestring]

Mike, there are 16 ga. brad nailers, also.

 

[GaryM]

If you're looking to purcahse either one, find one that has adjustable drive depth. My cheap Craftsman units don't and I need to adjust air pressure to adjust drive depth. Not the best solution.

 

[MikePA]

<font color="blue"> find one that has adjustable drive depth </font>
My Porter-Cable finish nailer and framing nailer have this feature, so it was on my list for a brad nailer...assuming I end up getting one.

 

[centex]

I use both a 15 gauge finish nailer and an 18 gauge brad nailer. The 15 gauge nails are a good bit bigger than the brads. I usually use the smaller brads along with glue where it is not practical to use clamps.

 

[MikePA]

Anyone have experience with the battery powered brad nailer like this one from Porter Cable, which can also be connected to a compressor?

 

[shvl73]

Good idea, however I can't think this model will catch on. An 18ga brad gun that weighs in at almost the weight of a framing nailer. I would think a standard brad nailer with a small diameter, lightweight hose coupled to a small, quiet, inexpensive compressor would be a better purchase. With some of the cheaper imports, the whole package could be purchased for less than that unit. My Harbor Freight brad gun works great, with the cheap oil-less compressor, is really portable & works well for the type of job a brad gun is made for.

 

[GaryM]

Senco makes a battery powered brad nailer. When you squeeze the trigger a moter winds up a flywheel. Then the flywheel transfers it's energy to a hammer of some sort that drives the brad. The whole process takes about 1.5 seconds. Much lighter than the Porter Cable unit. They also have a finish nailer http://www.senco.com/products/af/index.asp