FEL tilt Cylinder leak on a 60hr machine. LS-G3033

Omineca · Mar 20, 2014

First things first, i don't know anything about Hydraulics.

My FEL Tilt Cylinder (Left side when facing the front) just started leaking. I had just done a Hydraulic Filter change @ 50hrs. I just got done using it for about 3 small loads of snow removal and parked it.

It's leaking right at the dust cap? Right where the rod goes into the cylinder, about a drop every 10min or so. I only noticed because it looks like the bucket was sprayed with fluid, there are fluid drops/spots on the bucket about halfway to the other side, 68" bucket. Also the puddle of fluid on the ground after it had sat for a few hours.

Are there additional tests I can do to trouble shoot the source of the problem? I don't know Hydraulics but I can rebuild a small block no problem.

Is this something i should talk to the dealer about? or is this something that's normal maintenance for a tractor, like changing the oil. I know i have about 60 hours on it but i think it sat outside for about a year before i bought it. I checked the cylinder rods for imperfections and there are small pits near the bottom, full tilt upward. What would i do to test the rods to see if they are bent? I think that could cause leaking also? I haven't been hard on the machine at all, I cant afford to be.

By the way, the dealer is 2 1/2 hours away and the cost of fuel would pay for a new cylinder or seals. Oh and also, how do I measure the Cylinder if I want to replace it in the future?

Thanks very much guys.

oldnslo · Mar 20, 2014

60 hrs is way to soon for a cylinder to fail unless it was assembled incorrectly or the seals where damaged by a pitted rod or a bent rod.

How big are the pits in the cylinder rod? Are they in the same area that the oil is leaking out past the seal? It may take two people to do this but while curling the bucket back watch for leaks. Once the cylinder bottoms out it may spray out so be prepared and do NOT try and cover this with your hand.

to check for a bent rod extend the cylinder fully and place a straight edge along it.

Cylinders are usually not that difficult to rebuild but I would want to determine the cause of failure before just replacing the seals and hope it works.

If the rod is pitted then the dealer should either replace the cylinder rod or probably just replace the complete cylinder. I doubt it would be worth his time to tear your cylinder apart to replace the rod and seals.

Omineca · Mar 20, 2014

The pits are small, maybe from gravel and they are all at the very bottom end of the rod (closest to the bucket), I would only hit them when close to full up curl. I did ask my wife to help me a bit and she said that it dripped a couple times when i curled it up. It didnt spray at that time either so i wondered if it was a "load" thing, maybe it leaked more under load.

Oh and it leaks in any position i leave it in, on the smooth part of the rod or pitted part, ill try and take a pic when the sun comes up here in another 30min or so.

oldnslo · Mar 20, 2014

With a full load of dirt in the bucket and driving across rough ground could cause some pressure spikes but this still should not cause the cylinder to leak.

If the pits are small and not going in past the seal area which could be inside the cylinder around an inch, I would start to suspect the seal was compromised during assembly.

Have you tried calling the dealer to se what they say? Might just give you replacement cylinder or the send you the seal kit if you are willing and have the tools to do the work. You will need some way to hold the cylinder rod with out damaging it in order to remove the piston so that you can access the rod seal.

Omineca · Mar 20, 2014

I'll try and call him today, I couldn't get a hold of him yesterday. It just so happens that we are adding a new dog to our family this weekend and we are picking her up a few miles past the dealer (3 hour drive) so that would work out well if he is willing to warranty it and has stock of the kit or cylinder.