The heck with the service manual..... It cannot be followed because it just doesn't make sense and is truly UNCLEAR. If you have removed your injector pump and screwed up the timing ... THIS IS WHAT YOU HAVE TO DO.
Remove the valve cover. Remove the lower radiator hose. Remove the timing gear cover. Remove the rubber plug from the flywheel window, it is located on the starboard side of the tractor down low. If the flywheel were a clock it would be at the 7 O'clock position looking aft.
Since none of my timing marks on the idler gear OR the injector pump gear lined up ever.... (my engine was rebuilt by people that did not care)... This is what I did.
Remove the timing gear with a wheel puller...take care not to drop the key off the injector pump shaft down into the oil pan like I did. Now you can rotate the engine independent of the injector pump. Bar the engine over...it is designed to rotate counter clockwise when viewed from the operators seat.
I sat on the ground and used a screwdriver to bar it over one tooth at a time. I did this so much that I cheated a couple of times and used the starter to bypass a bunch of teeth. When you get onto the compression stroke for number 1 cylinder (closest to radiator) Start looking in the flywheel window with a flashlight, as you pry one tooth at the time you will come to the timing marks....the first one you will see is 30 degrees Before Top Dead Center, then it will count down by 2's 30, 28, 26, 24 etc..... Stop when you are at 25. There is no pointer to tell you exactly where 25 is..... but you can guestimate based on where the wheel sits in the window. You want 25 degrees before top dead center to be visible.
Now: Double check to make sure that you are on the Compression stroke. This is the only reason that you pulled the valve cover. Look at the valve rocker for cylinder number one> Both valves should be closed - the rockers should be loose and have a slight bit of teeter totter movement if you try to rock them by hand. Cylinder number 2 should have the intake valve open and the exhaust valve closed. Cylinder number 3 will have the exhaust valve open and the intake valve closed. If this is the case...then you are in fact on the correct stroke and you are 25 degrees before top dead center on cylinder one.
Remove the injector line off of injector number one. Put the 22mm nut back on the injector pump shaft but leave the gear off. (I used 2 thinner nuts so that I could jam them together...it made this easier, but not critical) - with your 22mm wrench rotate your injector pump toward the engine....clockwise facing aft... however you want to call it...this is it's normal rotation. It will roll easy and then pop with a spring loaded feel - look at the injector pipe that you removed off number 1 injector.....as you are rotating the pump, also work the hand primer. You will hear fuel whooshing through the return line (pay no attn to that) but eventually as you roll into the right position - you will be peeing fuel out of the number one injector line. As you continue to roll the pump, the peeing will stop (and move to cylinder 3, and then cylinder 2, and back to cylinder 1) You may want to remove those injector lines and watch it do this for funsies.... until you get the hang of what is going on here... But the real deal here is that you want the injector pump to pee fuel to the number 1 injector STARTING at 25 degrees. So after you are done rolling the injector pump around and watching fuel squirt out of your number one....you will have figured out right where you need to stop rotating the pump....just before the juice starts to squirt out of number one...... in my case, the keyway for the injector pump shaft was pointed directly inline with the number one injector line where it marries to the pump itself. I am complaining that the farmtrac instructions were unclear so let me be a little more illustrative here. As I look at the injector pump shaft... the keyway for the woodruff key is at the 9 o clock position. If you look at the back side of the injector pump... the injector line for cylinder 1 is at the 3 o'clock position. Same Same. Yours may be different.... I cannot help but think that it is done this way on purpose.
I hope this is benefitting somebody....because it took me a heck of a long time to get this right.
Leave the shaft oriented just to where it's about to pee. Reinstall the gear. You may have to crack loose the 3 bolts on the gear to be able to mesh it with the idler gear AND the keyway simultaneously. If so just do it. Be careful not to drop the woodruff key into the oil pan (Like I did). You will note that the punch marks on the idler gear and the pump gear are nowhere near where they could possibly mesh. OR yours may mesh..... If it looks like yours could mesh...then by all means line them up like that. Mine however were off by a country mile. Tighten everything up. Button up the valve cover...leave the timing cover off and leave the radiator hose off. Fire it up and see what you get there.... It is a beautiful sound to hear your 3 cylinder farmtrac come to life after it was dead for a month and you were afraid that you would have to haul it to the scrapyard.
Note to the fellow that wrote farmtrac's FIP timing instructions: No you don't need a "swan neck pipe", NO you do not have to remove the delivery valve holder, spring and peg and you do not have to have the fuel shut off solenoid powered up. All of these things make sense but are unnecessary. Lastly: How the heck do you expect a man to stick a dang dial indicator into the end of the injector pump and calculate 1mm of plunger lift? Are you kidding me? For starter MICO SPL tool number.... whatever that was... does not exist on planet earth (if it does google cannot find it)... and a standard gage will not fit in between the starter and the pump. So...JUST TELL US.... Do spill timing procedure at 25 degrees BTDC and be done with it!
Remove the valve cover. Remove the lower radiator hose. Remove the timing gear cover. Remove the rubber plug from the flywheel window, it is located on the starboard side of the tractor down low. If the flywheel were a clock it would be at the 7 O'clock position looking aft.
Since none of my timing marks on the idler gear OR the injector pump gear lined up ever.... (my engine was rebuilt by people that did not care)... This is what I did.
Remove the timing gear with a wheel puller...take care not to drop the key off the injector pump shaft down into the oil pan like I did. Now you can rotate the engine independent of the injector pump. Bar the engine over...it is designed to rotate counter clockwise when viewed from the operators seat.
I sat on the ground and used a screwdriver to bar it over one tooth at a time. I did this so much that I cheated a couple of times and used the starter to bypass a bunch of teeth. When you get onto the compression stroke for number 1 cylinder (closest to radiator) Start looking in the flywheel window with a flashlight, as you pry one tooth at the time you will come to the timing marks....the first one you will see is 30 degrees Before Top Dead Center, then it will count down by 2's 30, 28, 26, 24 etc..... Stop when you are at 25. There is no pointer to tell you exactly where 25 is..... but you can guestimate based on where the wheel sits in the window. You want 25 degrees before top dead center to be visible.
Now: Double check to make sure that you are on the Compression stroke. This is the only reason that you pulled the valve cover. Look at the valve rocker for cylinder number one> Both valves should be closed - the rockers should be loose and have a slight bit of teeter totter movement if you try to rock them by hand. Cylinder number 2 should have the intake valve open and the exhaust valve closed. Cylinder number 3 will have the exhaust valve open and the intake valve closed. If this is the case...then you are in fact on the correct stroke and you are 25 degrees before top dead center on cylinder one.
Remove the injector line off of injector number one. Put the 22mm nut back on the injector pump shaft but leave the gear off. (I used 2 thinner nuts so that I could jam them together...it made this easier, but not critical) - with your 22mm wrench rotate your injector pump toward the engine....clockwise facing aft... however you want to call it...this is it's normal rotation. It will roll easy and then pop with a spring loaded feel - look at the injector pipe that you removed off number 1 injector.....as you are rotating the pump, also work the hand primer. You will hear fuel whooshing through the return line (pay no attn to that) but eventually as you roll into the right position - you will be peeing fuel out of the number one injector line. As you continue to roll the pump, the peeing will stop (and move to cylinder 3, and then cylinder 2, and back to cylinder 1) You may want to remove those injector lines and watch it do this for funsies.... until you get the hang of what is going on here... But the real deal here is that you want the injector pump to pee fuel to the number 1 injector STARTING at 25 degrees. So after you are done rolling the injector pump around and watching fuel squirt out of your number one....you will have figured out right where you need to stop rotating the pump....just before the juice starts to squirt out of number one...... in my case, the keyway for the injector pump shaft was pointed directly inline with the number one injector line where it marries to the pump itself. I am complaining that the farmtrac instructions were unclear so let me be a little more illustrative here. As I look at the injector pump shaft... the keyway for the woodruff key is at the 9 o clock position. If you look at the back side of the injector pump... the injector line for cylinder 1 is at the 3 o'clock position. Same Same. Yours may be different.... I cannot help but think that it is done this way on purpose.
I hope this is benefitting somebody....because it took me a heck of a long time to get this right.
Leave the shaft oriented just to where it's about to pee. Reinstall the gear. You may have to crack loose the 3 bolts on the gear to be able to mesh it with the idler gear AND the keyway simultaneously. If so just do it. Be careful not to drop the woodruff key into the oil pan (Like I did). You will note that the punch marks on the idler gear and the pump gear are nowhere near where they could possibly mesh. OR yours may mesh..... If it looks like yours could mesh...then by all means line them up like that. Mine however were off by a country mile. Tighten everything up. Button up the valve cover...leave the timing cover off and leave the radiator hose off. Fire it up and see what you get there.... It is a beautiful sound to hear your 3 cylinder farmtrac come to life after it was dead for a month and you were afraid that you would have to haul it to the scrapyard.
Note to the fellow that wrote farmtrac's FIP timing instructions: No you don't need a "swan neck pipe", NO you do not have to remove the delivery valve holder, spring and peg and you do not have to have the fuel shut off solenoid powered up. All of these things make sense but are unnecessary. Lastly: How the heck do you expect a man to stick a dang dial indicator into the end of the injector pump and calculate 1mm of plunger lift? Are you kidding me? For starter MICO SPL tool number.... whatever that was... does not exist on planet earth (if it does google cannot find it)... and a standard gage will not fit in between the starter and the pump. So...JUST TELL US.... Do spill timing procedure at 25 degrees BTDC and be done with it!