farmall super C no start

[lochbs0094]

Hello all,
I have a farmall super C that has been in the family and on the farm since it was bought new all those years ago, theres many family members and neighbors that claim they drove it around the world twice which makes me want to keep her running just to keep a part of the heritage alive and remind me how far the farm has come from those days and to remind me of my grandfather and his father before him. It started t run funny and then just died, so I changed the points and condenser and the plugs and wires. That didnt help any so I rebuilt the carb, still nothing, spray ether into it, not a good idea I know but it was just a test. Then i changed the coil pack, still not much of a good running situation, after that I noticed that glow comming from the positive side of the coil so im wondering if the new coil didnt go bad, it has spark thru the tester but its weak, not a bright blue. Any input would be nice, I want to get it running for next spring, just to take it out and rake hay like the past generations did.
thanks

 

[Ed of all trades]

I am not an expert on super c's but I was thinking that it had a magneto not a coil. Has someone bypassed the magneto and put a coil on it? or am I wrong about the magneto? Hope it works out well.

 

[Soundguy]

i know you can have a battery ignition on a C.. so I asusme a super C as well.


to the OP.. are you 6v or 12v.

what coil do you have?

if 12v.. do you have a resistor int he wire to the coil.

what's this 'glow' yo speak of?

what did you gap points and plugs at?

ether in conservative amounts won't hurt a gasser engine..

 

[lochbs0094]

We it was set up for 12v so therefore we have the coil and resister o it. There is a glow from the post of the coil, points are set to .018 I think. Like I said earlier it gets spark its just weak

 

[Soundguy]

define 'glow from the post of the coil'

and define WHAT type of coil and resistor you have.

resistors have an ohm value. so do the primary of ignition coils....

plug gap?

you have to provide us some basic info before we can help you

 

[lochbs0094]

Soundguy I will have to get back to you on the type of resistor and coil I have, Im 3 hours away from the farm at college. What I mean by glow is that the post away from the motor where the power comes from the resistor actually has a glow from the center of it and smoke will come from it as soon as you pull the switch to send power to it. I wonder if the coil wasnt bought defective, and the resistor is identical to the one that I removed after it cracked. The coil should also be for a 12 volt system, another suggestion I have received was to pull a coil off a 80's ford since thats defiantly designed for 12 volt power. cant remember what the plugs were gapped to but what I think everyone is over looking is that there is a weak spark thru the spark plug checker that plugs into the ignition wires and then onto the spark plug so if there's not enough power going into the plug gap isnt the biggest issue right now. I will admit that the plugs likely arent gapped to the correct gap however. I will also admit that I have little knowledge on electrical systems, im more of a diesel guy. So if you can give some idea how to find this information this weekend I can check the coil and see what I can give to everyone. I do appreciate the help, might learn a thing or two as well

 

[Clint S]

If you have a 12 volt coil you do not need a resistor before it , IF it is not labeled for one. Just one before the lights if they have not been converted. Any smoke or sparking is not right, check all the wiring for grounding issues. If you need a resistor NAPA ICR13 resistor will work fine for a 12 volt system and 6 volt coil. 12 volt Coil should be labeled 12 volt without need for external resistor NAPA IC14 works well.

Big question is are you still positive ground???

Do a search here Yesterday's Tractors :: View Forum - Farmall & International Harvester (IHC) for info. I have a 200 which is just the next year super C and have a manual
Here is a 12 volt wiring for a SC
http://cdn.mikewills.me/charliesrepair/diagrams/A-B-Cw-Delco12vcoil.pdf

 

[DJ54]

Unless you happened to not mention it, I see you did not replace the dist. cap. Do have a look inside at the lugs. They will get a buildup on them from ionization. The aluminum lugs seems to be worse at it than the brass, but the brass one's will too. You can scrape this off with your knife blade, many times, and be good to go. I've had the same cap on my one Super C for over 20 years. Seems every couple of years I have to do this. She'll start blubbering, and that's the first thing I check. It's either that, or the plugs need cleaning.

When you get the other issues worked out. Points setting is .020, and plug gap .025.

 

[lochbs0094]

Alright well since we always had a resistor on it I was unclear since its a 12 volt system. I wonder if I didnt make that mistake and have a 12 volt coil on it now when before it was a 6. Maybe the lower voltage screwed up the new coil plus it would make sense that there would only be a weak spark, right? After everything else failed I did bypass the coil now that I think back on it (this was the beginnig of the spring that I was worrying about this tractor, after that it was onto fieldwork and repairs on more crucial equipment) but that didnt help any, could have been low voltage damaged it maybe. And it is a negative ground system not positive

 

[Clint S]

Yes 6 volts to a 12 volt coil would be an issue. I would just get a 12 volt coil and get rid of the resister . As DJ pointed out check under the cap I clean mine x 2 a year sometimes due to crud. How can/did you "bypass" the coil? You need it to supply current to the cap to start and run