Farm Pro 2425 Clutch

[Ed_B]

Well I think I did it. Trashed the clutch on my 2425. I was brushing a food plot for deer and tried to push over a small tree. There was no noise indicating a major failure. I put the tractor in reverse and it just wouldn't move.

Tried all the obvious. Checked the Hi/Lo levers 4WD levers, etc.

I don't feel anything when I depress the clutch, like a throw out bearing being bad. When I depress the clutch and engage/ disengage the PTO, it's like have no clutch at all, the PTO gears grind.

I can shift gears, with no grinding. When I release the clutch, no movement is detectable, like the clutch is slipping. There is no smell like burned clutch. There is a rattling noise when the tractor is in gear with the clutch released. No noise when it is in neutral.

Before I start taking things apart and calling Tommy, any ideas?

 

[greg_g]

Remove one or both of the clutch inspection plates on the side(s) of the bellhousing and look inside. There should be three clutch levers (fingers) almost touching the face of the throwout bearing. One probably isn't. If you're lucky, it's a just a broken roll pin - the one that holds the lever axis pin in place. Hopefully no critical parts fell into the bottom of the bellhousing. If not, it's a simple enough job to put everything back together through the inspection ports. If so, you're looking at breaking the tractor in two.

//greg//

 

[Ed_B]

Thanks Greg.

Is losing a finger a common problem? I worked on lots of clutches in my Marine Corps days. Saw them exploded, burned etc., I don't ever recall a finger coming off though. Of course, that was a long time ago.

You think I can fish around in the bottom of the bell housing with a flexible magnet to retrieve parts? I looked at the clutch adjustment that Spiker did on John S's site. Things look pretty tight in there.

Like I said in the post there was no noise, it was like something just let loose, I didn't hear anything rattling around in there. I will keep you posted.

Ed.

 

[greg_g]

Is losing a finger a common problem?

Unlike what you commonly encountered in the MC, this is a two stage clutch. PTO first, driveline second. Only takes one out of tolerance finger to make that PTO engagement noise. The drive line will still engage/disengage (for a while). Don't know if I'd categorize it as common, but I'm pretty sure this is the clutchpack that several owners have reported broken roll pins or axis pins. Some of them have been lucky to be able to remedy the issue through the inspection ports with replacement pins. If/when parts actually drop though, makes one wish for a bottom inspection port too !! A parts magnet may work in some situations, I don't remember if that axis pin is stainless or not.

//greg//

 

[Affordable]

Ed,could be a broken roll pin in the clutch engagment fork,remove the inspection covers to see if the fingers are moving the clutch any when depressed,if they are you may have to do the clutch,either way you would have to split the tractor to replace the roll pin if thats the problem.Just let me know if we can help with anything,we have what ever parts you may need

Tommy
Affordable Tractor Sales

 

[Ed_B]

Hey Greg and Tommy:

Got to the clutch inspection hole through the FEL mount. Nothing unusual no oil, no signs of anything broken, no burnt clutch, looks brand new. Three fingers. TO bearing and fork doing their jobs. Still not moving. Engaging PTO w/ tractor running and clutch depressed still grinds like I have no clutch at all. When I rev the tractor with the clutch in the PTO keeps right up (I still have the mower attached).

I think I read a post about the PTO disc sticking to the pressure plate. Maybe?

I am going to pull the top off the tranny and creeper tommorow see if everything looks o.k. in there. I was thinkig maybe the main shaft could have busted, but that doesn't explain the PTO main/drive dilemma.

Ideas are welcome.

Thanks for everything so far.

 

[greg_g]

I think I read a post about the PTO disc sticking to the pressure plate. Maybe?

Maybe after a prolonged idle period in damp conditions. But not likely on one that was actively working when the problem occurred. Something broke, it's just a matter of finding out what. Won't hurt I guess to lift the housing covers for a quick look. But the gear oil level inside the housing probably won't let you see much. Be prepared to cut new gaskets though, I seriously doubt you'll be wanting to reuse the OE gaskets. Oh, and it's not a good idea to run the engine with the covers off. Messy!

Clearance between the fingers and the throwout bearing should be between 1 and 2 centimeters. With the tractor NOT running, can you try to move each finger individually to make sure one of them isn't flopping around? Use the compression release, then use a big screwdriver as a lever to rotate the clutchpack so you can test all three fingers. Does the clutch fork actually move fore and aft proportionate to the distance the clutch pedal travels?

My two Jinmas had that annoying noise with the clutch engaged, it was louder in high range. Can't find it in the archives, but Chip Uren has mentioned a couple of times that noise is due to some O-ring problem - but I don't remember any more specifics. At any rate, I don't think it's related to your current issue.

//greg//

 

[Affordable]

I agree with Greg something broke, If the clutch fingers are moving,makes me believe clutch,if the PTO disc was stuck,you should still have tractor movement on the second stage of the clutch. Don;t worry about the gaskets yet,we have replacments lets get the problem solved first.

Tommy
Affordable Tractor Sales

 

[bluechip]

So we have a main disk that will not engage, and a PTO disk that will nto fully disengage. There have been a couple postings in the past of the main disk hub breaking loose, that would explain the lack of burnt clutch smell and lack of motion. the failure of the PTO to release coudl be a separate problem or maybe some of the main linings may have come off the disk and wedged together, keeping pressure on the PTO disk, it does not take much to make it rotate enough to cause grinding when engaged or attempt to engage. I have not heard of a tranmsission input shaft breaking, but suppose it is possible. if something has to be broken, better the main disk, much easier to fix although splitting the tractor seems a big job, it is not too bad if you have a couple floor jacks and or an overhead hoist of some type. you will need a couple wedges to stabilize the front axle pivot, or build a cradle for the engine and roll the rear end away (after disconnecting anything that crosses the point where the engine and bell housing join.

 

[Ed_B]

OK. I'll break her in two. I had to order an ATV jack $59.00 not too bad, I guess. I have a floor jack, lots of wood and a couple of jack stands and plenty of help.

I THINK either Bluechip or Tommy had posts on the procedure, what do I wedge in the front to keep the it from rotating on the axles? The CV joints?

I will try to do a step by step for the Forum, with pics. I'll get back when ATV jack comes.

Thanks for the help all you guys. . .

 

[Ranch_Hand_Supp]

Ed B,

Here is a link showing a 254LE... same as Farmpro 2425 [series] split for a clutch repair. this will give you a idea. The first 3 pic's.

That ATV jack may just keep the front half from rocking and give you some up and down adjustments aswell [you want have to wedge with wood]? I made a cradle for the shop.

Click below,
http://www.ranchhandsupply.com/techstuffus/254le354leclutch.html

Ronald
Ranch Hand Supply

 

[bluechip]

We just use a couple cold chisels, one on each side between the stops for the pivot of the axle, one floor jack under the oil pan the other under the tranmsission, but the ATV jack iw a good idea, and might be handier to have around than a second floor jack if you have an atv!

 

[Ed_B]

Oh, ok I get it. To keep it from going side to side on the front axel pivot. I had the front rotating over the front axles.

Yeah I have an ATV anyhow, and like I said the price is right for the jack. Should I be pulling the back away from the front or vice-versa, or doesn't it make a difference?

It would seem that I would want to pull the back out and roll it to the front because I can turn the tranny shaft to line up with the clutch splines. Accurate assesment?

 

[bluechip]

Its a little tricky to line up the splines, you have 2 sets, one for the trans and one for the PTO. You can add a half a driveshaft on the PTO and put it in gear to get that one (first) then turn the engine and or put the tractor in gear to line up the main splines. The nice thing about blocking the front and pulling off teh back is you have nice big tires and lots of leverage to push against.

 

[Ed_B]

Still waiting on the ATV jack. Does anyone know if the clurch kit comes with a pilot shaft?

Thans for the help so far guys.

Ed

 

[Ranch_Hand_Supp]

If you mean a clutch disc line up shaft ?? .... No


Ronald
Ranch Hand Supply

 

[SPIKER]

Boy this sounds like a problem I've heard about before. I think Chip already posted something to the effect about the clutch disk shearing the rivits off, the disk then simply spins inside the clutch housing, possab;ly as mentioned wedging the PTO but every thing seems to move. what is odd is the LACK of clutch feel you mentioned. maybe I miss read that?

anyhow at 300 hrs, I have to adjust my MAIN clutch soon. biggest reason is I JUST had 80 ton of compactable sand/gravel wash delivered wensday and been moving it into the pole barn yesterday & today, lots of clutching & shifting & unfortuneatly slipping. she is pretty much slipped out I think. The pole barn I have has a row of center divider poles on the 20 foot and 10 feet appart, (barn is 50 by 40) I can turn the 284 with ZL20 fel loaded up and 6 foot box blade on back for ballast through the 10 x 8 roll up door not yet tore up any poles (KNOCK ON WOOD FOR ME SO I DON'T HAVE TOO lol ) I did manage a few bumps here & there and ALMOST crushed the door track rolling backwards too quickly. Just acn't stand to run it in the low high setup too slow going in Revers, would be great if I had shuuttle shift. but I don't. I still have probably 20 ton on the ground 50' outside the roll up. Have to back fill under the 12 x 50 lean too yet. and may have to get a good 20 ton more sand mix.?

I'm here looking for the link to that post I did about adjusting the PTO and MAIN clutch free play to re-read it over to make adjusting the main clutch easier and fresher in my mind. got to get over to JOHN S's site & print that out .

hope it goes well & post back for all us wanna be farmers to read up on LOL

mark M

 

[Ed_B]

Hello all and thanks for the advice so far. Still waiting on the ATV jack.

I did get the FEL off and got it in the garage so, I started taking off the stuff on the back that is connected to the front. Driveshaft to front wheels, hydraulic lines, throttle, etc. I figured as long as I had it in the garage that I would change the fluids. After seeing what came out of the tranny I am going to fluush too. (I know Greg).

After draining the tranny I took off the creeper and tranny covers, everything looks fine nothing broken.

After getting the FEL off I got a good look inside. It's hard to tell, but it looks like the the rivet shearing gremlin got the main clutch disc.

Anyway. Electrical connections. I am not too swift when it comes to wiring. Where's the plug(s)? Help, please?

P.S. I would have taken some shots of the ordeal but my kid has the digital camera.

 

[tommie holt]

ok i have a 2425 farm pro was working at back it has 98 hours on it and i got it stuck and in some mud put it in 4 low and come out but now it has no clutch it stay in gear what do i need to do to get it out of gear

 

[greg_g]

ok i have a 2425 farm pro was working at back it has 98 hours on it and i got it stuck and in some mud put it in 4 low and come out but now it has no clutch it stay in gear what do i need to do to get it out of gear

You just addressed a 6 year old topic. I think you'd get more helpful response if you started a new one - specific to your current issue. Back up one level to the Chinese Tractor section, then click on New Thread.

//greg//