Excessive Engine Blowback...

[Chief9697]

I have a Ford 1310 Diesel and recently the engine started sounding like it has a miss for about 3min during startup. The initial knocking noise seems pretty loud and then it seems to smooth out. An additional item is that I noticed the Engine is starting to indicate an excessive blow back condition... The engine does not seem exhibit any power loss... Looking for some feedback...Chief

 

[TomSeller]

Offhand, it sounds like one or more of your glow plugs (or the circuit) simply failed and the engine runs rough until it warms up on it's own. The blowback Is somewhat concerning.

Hours? Condition? How long have you had it? Typical use? Maintenance practices and history? New to you? We need some additional information.

 

[Dave M7040]

I am with Tom on the cause of the rough running at startup.
Remove the electrical wire from the top of each glow plug and using a multimeter, measure the resistance between the tip where you removed the wire and the engine block. If they dont read all the same you have found your problem.
As for the blow by, consider how you are using your tractor. Lots of light load engine conditions such as idling or driving around using a loader on level ground can result in a condition called diesel slobber.
Google the term to read more. What happens in the absence of high pressures within the engine cylinders, the seal the rings make to the cylinder walls becomes poor and you get more blow by into the crankcase and crankcase oil being sucked into the cylinder and spit out the exhaust.
Sometimes owners will make a comment like: "I loaned my tractor to a neighbor to plow his field and it has never run so well!"
Dave M7040

 

[skyhook]

If this happens in cold weather only, it could be as Dave or Tom indicated. If this happens in warm weather also, could be an air leak in the fuel deliver system, make sure all your connections are tight and no fuel leak is found. If the blow by is only for the 3 minutes or so, sounds like unburned fuel. Changing the engine oil may also help if it hasn't already been done.

 

[Chief9697]

The Ford 1310 three cylinder engine has about 400hrs of run time on the engine. I have done the maintenance on the unit as needed. Since I am not at the location full time, I due an annual Oil and filter change, and try to keep the fuel fresh...
I did not ck each of the glow plugs as you indicated in you feed back, which of course maybe the knock issues since two of the three cylinders may only be working... They are connected ignition switch which must spring loaded and held in that position until the little coil glows on the dash... My next trip to the site, I will bring my test light to see that they are all working... But I am concerned about the Blow Back on an engine with such low hours... Chief

 

[Chief9697]

Dave, so you do not recommend me letting the unit idle for long periods of time??? Here I thought I was doing the right thing... When I am there in the winter, I do keep an heater on the oil pan for a couple of hours prior to starting the unit, just to make sure the oil is warmed up and gets up into the engine quicker in the colder weather... My friend was the original owner of the tractor, but he was not a tractor person and so to keep himself from getting hurt, I operated the unit on each visit... Are there any additives that you guys would recommend adding to the fuel system that would help keep the injectors clean... Thanks Chief

 

[Texasmark]

Agree that all the cylinders are not at the same temp. I would assume as glow plugs age their resistance changes and heat produced changes making some get the cylinder hotter faster than others. What I do is to start at idle after the glow plug light goes off and when I hear any clanking, just move the throttle around (as close to idle as I can stay initially) till I find the smoothest spot till it warms up somewhat. Around 1200 rpm is a good number after initial startup for me for the remainder of the warmup before putting on full load. For what it's worth, I have a brand new tractor with 8 hours on the engine and on these cold mornings I have it too on a 3 cyl. My 4 cyl doesn't do it.

I run Power Services "snake oil" in my fuel to keep fuel from gelling, and another type to keep injectors, piston tops, and rings nice and clean. Just can't tell folks how good it is for me in that I just don't have fuel issues. I have a 1963 Ford 2000 4 cyl diesel with around 3750 original hours, valve cover has not been off, and yes the "proofmeter" (the little hootus that counts running hours) works...a little black and white tell tale that rotates as long as the shaft is turning. When I got it it smoked pretty good but I started it on PS products and it is all but gone now unless you jerk the throttle to wide open from idle and that's unburned fuel, not oil. It leaks more than it burns and that's hardly mentionable.

In the winter I always run my engines till they at least get the temp needle off the peg and that's usually up around 1200-1500 rpm (PTO is 1800). Idling is bad for them in that the books I read say that idling does not warm up the engine adequately to burn off deposits and condensation.

The above works for me. Others have things that work for them......this is my story. HTH, Mark