excavating hill side for retention wall - what implment for BX25?

dirtbikejunkie · Oct 5, 2009

Hi all, I am about to work on building a 3-5' retention wall along my yard. currently the area has a 45 degree slope and then level on top. the wall length will be approx 50'.

sorry for the crappy photo... this is the area where the retention wall will go and hopefully give an idea of material I need to dig.

what implement would work best for digging? the ground is glacial till, mostly loamy with 1" to softball size rocks.

I am considering buying a toothbar for the FEL in hopes most of the material can be moved with the it. in your experience will the BX FEL with a toothbar be able to dig into soft dirt like this, or am I dreaming?

I also have a few high areas in the lawn I am hoping the toothbar will be able to dig, any thoughts?

NSBound · Oct 5, 2009

Assuming you do not have a backhoe on your rig, the FEL with toothbar will work OK. Just take small cuts at it though, don't try to fill the bucket all at once. If you do have a backhoe, you have it made - dig it out with that, pick it up and move it with the FEL.

dodge man · Oct 5, 2009

Unless the ground is really hard, the FEL will work, and I don't think you will need a toothbar unless you want one.

CHDinCT · Oct 5, 2009

By definition, your BX25 has a backhoe, so like was already said, use that to dig the wall vertical, then move the excavated soil/till to wherever you want it.

BotaBX24er · Oct 5, 2009

FEL will work fine but it's all about the technique that you will have to figure out as your yard will allow so much. But yes, the easiest way is to break it up with the BH and then scoop it up with the FEL. Enjoy...Just be careful with the BH (the tendency I have is when power behind it gets to me and I keep on digging

) and make sure that you have made the ONE CALL to mark out all your utilities as it looks really close to the house.

LBrown59 · Oct 5, 2009

dodge man said:
Unless the ground is really hard, the FEL will work, and I don't think you will need a toothbar unless you want one.

With a BX25 he has all he needs .
Use the BH and no toothbar is needed.

radioman · Oct 5, 2009

Right, since he has a BH, It is probably all he needs to break up the soil to make it loose enough for FEL. If it doesnt work and it compacted and too large of rocks mixed in, then perhaps a brotek ripper hook would work on the BH instead of bucket then ue FEL to move loose materail.

dirtbikejunkie · Oct 5, 2009

yes, I do have a BH.

I was thinking that by adding a toothbar to the FEL I could dig into the hill side using it and be more efficient. but reading the replies above and thinking about it some more that probably won't work and I'll need to use the BH.

any suggestion in regards to the best method to improve the grade of the yard? at present the grading is causing pooling around the foundation. I want to create a 2% grade all around the house. I was also considering a toothbar for this to get the rough grade in then finish by hand as house is only on a 1/2 acre and the area seems too small for a box grader, etc. any suggestions?

rdsaustintx · Oct 6, 2009

Depends on the type of retention wall and if you need a footing. If so, the BH is the only way to go. My wife does hydrology and erosion control engineering (retaining walls). There is a LOT to the subject.

Her first question in designing one is, "ALL erosion control is temporary, so how long do you want it to last?"

The part about the FEL that scares me is the angle of approach. It looks like limited room to back up. These things can REALLY ding house walls.

(or so I have heard. not like I done it. honest. no kidding. really.)

ChuckinNH · Oct 6, 2009

Remember when thinking about establishing grade with an FEL that the bucket is always level with the back tires. Often, the only way to establish a new grade is to create it by digging at 90 degrees to the planned grade until you establish a place for the tractor to sit. The next problem is maintaining that grade. On the other hand, a box blade can be tilted to an angle that is different than the grade the tractor is on, and the angle of attack can be adjusted to dig more in the high spots than in the low spots by tipping the box ahead until the front of the side edges contat the soil before the blade does. In just playing with a small swale, I found it much easier to establish, and maintian a grade with the BB than with the loader, and I am a newbie with it. The box will pull an even layer along until you get a load, or reach the end of your grade, and then you can easily scoop it up with the bucket. This little swale is only about 50' long, and you can get an idea how much soil you will move. (Actually some of it has already been used in other places on my land)