Euro chain question- fitting

[fishhead]

I have had poor results with conventional ladder style chains in the past as far as grip and chain lifespan. Following the advice is some of the chain threads i looked for euro style chains for my JD3720.
Having found some availability issues and pricing circa 1k$ i contacted windy ridge regarding OFA chains and was pleased to find lower pricing than Trygg etc. Too, they had a more met style front chain which i had not seen elsewhere.
I ended up with the easy on chains at their suggestion. The chains came with install instructions but the details on cut and fit are quite brief, does anyone have a link or pdf to a more detailed instruction?

Thanks

 

[Gordon Gould]

I just saw this. It's late and I don't know if you solved your problem yet. I had to cut down the length of my OFA chains for my fronts. I am just getting ready to pull them out of storage and mount them. I could post some pic's of what I did if you still are looking for help. Let me know.

gg

 

[powerscol]

I have had poor results with conventional ladder style chains in the past as far as grip and chain lifespan. Following the advice is some of the chain threads i looked for euro style chains for my JD3720.
Having found some availability issues and pricing circa 1k$ i contacted windy ridge regarding OFA chains and was pleased to find lower pricing than Trygg etc. Too, they had a more met style front chain which i had not seen elsewhere.
I ended up with the easy on chains at their suggestion. The chains came with install instructions but the details on cut and fit are quite brief, does anyone have a link or pdf to a more detailed instruction?

Thanks

You can use the trygg instructions as they are similar. however is it trial and adjust. Set the chains over the tire and set the inside length first, then the outside length. I lay my chains out behind each tire and back over then until about 2 feet show in front of tire, then I tie about 3' of bailing wires on the ends and pull the chains up snu and hoof the wire over a lugg. I then continue backing until the tied end is halfway down the back of the tire. At this point I pull and adjust the chains, Once the slack is out try and hook up the inside. (don't cut yet), then work on snuging up the outside. You want the pattern centered on the tire. Now hook up the outside. Lst is hooking up the center pattern if you have closure chains. Tie up any loose end and drive about 20 feet then back up. Check for slack and make adjustments. At this point mark and cut the side chains, but leave about 3 lengths extra just in case. Be sure you using chain tensioners too.

Hope this helps

 

[Rustyiron]

I've only "adjusted" 1 pair of the euro style ice chains and understand your concern of "messing up" a fairly expensive purchase. I believe the basics are;
Make them as tight as possible (equallyl) at all 4 connecting points.
Keep to center of the chains pattern centered with the tires pattern.
Try to maintain the chains pattern as best as you can at the connection.

Basically what powerscol said above. :thumbsup:
You'll be surprised how much slack you can work out of the chain from the time you first get them initially hung on the tire. Be patient.

 

[fishhead]

Thanks Rusty and Power,
I got a guy on the phone at the distributor and he said to make sure there is some slack and to not use tensioner- basically sun but not too tight. They talk about being able to place a fist under the side chain.
I did originally put tensioners on the front and found that with the chains not really tight they migrated a bit to the outside
I need to do some more fit iterations. Our snow disappeared so i got into other things. Eventually la nina should start doing her magic so i need to get things buttoned up soon.
I found the windy ridge folks to be quite helpful and nice and their price good- would definitely recommend them and use them again.

I've only "adjusted" 1 pair of the euro style ice chains and understand your concern of "messing up" a fairly expensive purchase. I believe the basics are;
Make them as tight as possible (equallyl) at all 4 connecting points.
Keep to center of the chains pattern centered with the tires pattern.
Try to maintain the chains pattern as best as you can at the connection.

Basically what powerscol said above. :thumbsup:
You'll be surprised how much slack you can work out of the chain from the time you first get them initially hung on the tire. Be patient.

 

[Rustyiron]

Windy Ridge is a good place.:thumbsup:
About a 45 minute drive for me.

 

[LouNY]

Here's a link to a thread with the way I mount my chains,
it is the easiest way I have found.
https://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/snow-removal/405039-mounting-tire-chains.html

As far as shortening yours without a picture I won't chance a say,
I fasten my center links as snug as I can pull them without fighting over it,
being sure to keep them an equal length with the excess getting fastened to the outside chains
using clevis's after fastening the outside chains again being sure to keep the same length.

I do not use a tensioning device.

 

[John_Mc]

Thanks Rusty and Power,
I got a guy on the phone at the distributor and he said to make sure there is some slack and to not use tensioner- basically sun but not too tight. They talk about being able to place a fist under the side chain.

Fishhead is correct, unlike Ladder or DuoGrip style chains which call for tight chains and the use of tensioners, most Euro-style chains do call for some slack, and recommend not using tensioners. (Trygg seems to be the exception: their installation instructions are not clear about the amount of slack or whether or not tensioners should be used.) My OFA Echo chains call for a fist worth of slack, and even mention that they are not responsible for damage or wear caused by running the chains tight. I've been running them that way for about 5 years now and they work perfectly.

 

[MAD777]

I run my OFA chains with a fistful of slack. Looks sloppy as all get out, but it works!