Electric Hot Water Heaters

[RichZ]

I need to get a hot water heater for my new milk house, and we're thinking of replacing the one in our home. We're deciding between an A. O. Smiith or a Marathon. We'll get a 30 gallon heater for each. These two brands are supposed to be the most efficient.

Does anyone have any experience with either one?

Thanks!!!

 

[silo36]

I used to work with a master plumber and unless there's a great deal of cost difference, in my experience, either one should give you good service.However, i would reccomend 40 gallon units istead of thirty.I also reccomend that whatever you go with, drain them at least once a year.No matter how good your water, sediment will build up and shorten the life of your water heater.Just don't forget to turn off the breaker to the unit before you get ready to drain it(very competent people have forgotten this) or you will burn up your elements.If your water system is prone to going off(especially municipal systems)install a check valve in the line so the water won't siphon back out.

 

[kenmac]

All the water heaters that I know of come with a cold water side dip tube. There is a small anti sipon hole drilled in the top of the dip tube.I have never heard of marathon brand water heater , I'm sure its made by ao smith, state, rheem or one of the major brands and just has marathon label (private label) such as a store brand. The only difference in 5-10 etc, warranty is the size or number of anode rods in the tank to protect against corrosion.I would get the 40 gal over the 30 gal.depends on the number of people .I have a 50 gal.

 

[johnday]

RichZ; Most of the electric water heaters I see are 50-52 gallon, I "think" it has to do with recovery rate. Gas heaters are usually in the 30-40 gallon range for residential. Don't know anything about milkhouses or milking, so I can't offer anything there.

I do have a question though, why would you want to heat hot water? /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

 

[kenmac]

I think you can get elect. water heaters as small as 10-15 gallons.for small amounts of hot water say, under the sink.
notice I said water heater not hot water heater. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

 

[johnday]

Ken; Yes, I've installed a couple of the little ones for wet bars. But I think for general household use, 50-52 is the standard, at least in my area. I think in mobile homes it may be different. Don't anyone quote me, but I think codes may have something to do with it.

But no ones answered my question, so I'll ask again, " Why would you want to heat hot water"? /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif /forums/images/graemlins/tongue.gif /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

Oh, and GOLD STAR for you!! /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

 

[Sigarms]

You can't really "go wrong" with any of todays manufacturers of hot water heaters (AO Smith, Rudd, State,Bradford White, Lochnivar,Boch...).

The two brands you mentioned are good water heaters, but by no means (depending on the model) are they the most efficient (make sure your comparing apples to apples).

A couple fo things to consider though when looking at water heaters that will effect the price.

Recovery rate-Gallons per hours that the water heater can "put out" (this can have a substantial effect on your intented usage). You'll find the rating as GPH.

Effeciency-the higher the efficiency, the higher the cost, but depending on your useage, you could save more money in the long run.

Venting-natural vent (verticle) or power or direct vent (natural being the less expensive way to go).

Tank wrty-most come with 5-6 year tank wrty, but 10 years models are availabel as well (for more money of course).

And of course, what type of fuel are you using...propane, natural gas or electric.

Honestly, a 30 gallon water heater for a milk house seems to be really on the "low side".

AND... if I read or read you post "right" the first time, I see you mention "electric" /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif

Throw my "list of factors" out the door /forums/images/graemlins/crazy.gif

Wich means in most cases even if you go up to an 80 gallon, you'll be "pushing" about 20 GPH at a 90 degree temperature rise (this is for 240 voltage, water heater will "probably" have 2/4500 watt elements), if your running 115 voltage (usually a "poratable" unit, most run 7 GPH at the same rise, usually 1/1500 watt element, but you can find some that do get up to 20 GPH, and these usually have 1/4500 watt element).

Just to give you an idea, a "regular" 40 gallon gas (propane)water heater "pushes" 41 GPH, a higher efficient "through the wall" unit will do 70 GPH (all at 90 degree's) and some "ultra" high efficiency models will do over 145 GPH (at 100 degrees).

That's why I mention to make sure your comparing apples to apples.

 

[fishman]

I had a bad experience with an A.O. Smith water heater over ten years ago. The top basically caved in and it sprung a leak in the supply line within a year. Thankfully it was in the basement and not to catastrophic. It must have been a freak incident, because the plumber who installed it, and came back out to replace it, said he'd never seen anything like it before. Regardless, I'll never buy one again. Odds are, however, that my experience isn't relevant to the newer A.O. Smith models and the company did replace it, no questions asked.