Earthquake MC33 cultivator review.

[jkk04]

I purchased this Earthquake MC33 cultivator from Lowes recently for the small space garden.

I didn't expect a lot of performance on this cultivator but not like these disappointments.

My final judgment on this cultivator will go to 3 stars

Hope this video helps people who are considering purchasing.

Jkk

 

[LS Tractor Owner]

I have one of the rototiller attachments that go on my 4stroke string trimmer. It's far, far easier to use than that thing.

My suggestion is to remove those back wheels and brackets. Let the tines be in constant contact with the ground and pull the unit into the dirt. That way you can hold onto both handles and use your body weight to "hold it back".

That is why your BCS REAR tine tiller works well. Have you ever used a front tine tiller? No comparison to a rear tine one.

 

[5030]

As with everything else, you get what you pay for. Not something I'd ever buy.

I do have the Artisam (earthquake) furrower-hiller attachment for my rear tine tiller and I give that 5 stars.

 

[coobie]

As with everything else, you get what you pay for. Not something I'd ever buy.

I do have the Artisam (earthquake) furrower-hiller attachment for my rear tine tiller and I give that 5 stars.

With your VAST experience please tell us which one you would buy OH great one? To the OP thanks for your post/review..I have a small mantis tiller with a Honda 4 stroke that I run between my garden rows that has served me well for 8 plus years.

 

[Doughknob]

My suggestion is to remove those back wheels and brackets. Let the tines be in constant contact with the ground and pull the unit into the dirt. That way you can hold onto both handles and use your body weight to "hold it back".

Yes, exactly. I have used those little tillers just like that, and "without any wheels" is the way to go. You control how deep it digs by holding it back from letting the tines walk it forward.

 

[RandyT]

Didn't appear to be fully primed because you were still getting air into the suction side of the carb when starting attempted. I have found that they work better if pulled backwards, and trying to work in that loose of soil conditions it won't pull it self very well.

I don't own one I am the guy that works on them when things go wrong.

 

[jkk04]

I have one of the rototiller attachments that go on my 4stroke string trimmer. It's far, far easier to use than that thing.

My suggestion is to remove those back wheels and brackets. Let the tines be in constant contact with the ground and pull the unit into the dirt. That way you can hold onto both handles and use your body weight to "hold it back".

That is why your BCS REAR tine tiller works well. Have you ever used a front tine tiller? No comparison to a rear tine one.

That way is 1000% better than what the factory recommended.

They should revise the owner manual instructions.

I will make a video and upload to the YouTube for other people.

Thank you so much.

Jkk

 

[jkk04]

Here is the video I made after removed the wheel.
I am very happy now
Jkk

 

[airbiscuit]

I bought a used Earthquake MC43 2 stroke cultivator. It is much more capable than I expected. I have to really hold it with one hand when I pull the recoil rope because it has wicked strong compression. I am usually tilling unbroken ground with lots of roots.

I don't remove the wheels, I just adjust them upwards. I don't pull it backwards, I just let the drag stake do its job, and slowly till in a forward motion. It has way more power than my (old) 25cc Mantis.