Early 444 Stator

[bellnygreen]

Have a 1969 or 70 444 that needs a new stator #KO 237038. Seems that the part is NLA, at least at the sites I've looked on. Problem seems to be it is smaller in diameter than the stators available. Can the part still be found, or will I have to come up with a NEW Stator and NEW Flywheel? The flywheel # is KOA236720. Thanks for any help.

 

[wolftree]

Look for a shop that rebuilds starters, generators and alternators.

 

[bellnygreen]

Thanks for the reply wolftree. Good idea. Never gave rebuild a thought. Prices I've seen for replacements are scary.

 

[wolftree]

Replacements are indeed scary in price and often are trash. I have had several different starters rebuilt over the years for a cost less than one replaccement that you did not know where it came from or who actually rebuilt it.

 

[hydriv]

Stator failure is not very common on Kohler K engines. So please excuse me for asking how you know to a certainty that your stator is truly non-functional? Does your ohm meter show that the coil is open? Does it show that the coil is shorted to the steel core? Does it show ZERO ohms when you measure across the stator leads? Did you run the engine at half throttle or better while putting your multi-meter's leads across the stator leads with the multi-meter set on AC volts? If so, what was the reading, if any?

 

[bellnygreen]

The Kohler K321 isn't charging. Hasn't since I bought it 5 or 6 years ago. I'm not a small engine tech so the questions you ask I really can't answer. I have, in the past, replaced stator's on different Craftsman tractors that displayed the same charging issues with success. Your points are well taken. The machine is 40 plus years old and although it was taken care of, the motor now needs a good going over. Who know's how many hours it has on it. I know an excellent shop in the area that has rebuilt starters for me in the past, so I'm sure the first thing they will do is test the stator. My mechanical ability is at best "shade tree" and at my age I'm happy just to brag about that. I will take care of the plug and play BS and let the pro's do the rest. After all, they have to make a buck too. Thanks for your reply.

 

[hydriv]

All I can say is that I hope for your sake that the shop is honest. If the stator is still mounted in the engine, then it isn't very difficult for YOU to follow my simple instructions and conduct the tests. The alternative is to remove the stator and take it into that shop. In order to remove the stator, you have to dismantle the PTO clutch on the front and then obtain a flywheel puller to pop the flywheel loose. I have to wonder if your shadetree mechanic abilities extend that far, no insult implied.

More often than not, the true fault is not with the actual stator but with other areas of the electrical system such as the voltage regulator, bad connections, bad grounds, corroded wiring, broken wires or improper wiring. It's your life and your money but no matter how you cut it, you are either going to have to dive into this tractor, find and correct the charging problem or.....haul the tractor to a shop and pay them to find it for you. That could get very expensive to the point of it exceeding the current retail value of your 444. My way is for you to go and purchase a $20.00 multimeter and work with me to get to the real problem. Throwing new parts at a problem is an absurd way to correct it.

As a young man, I worked in a gas station that practiced "parts replacement" as a diagnostic tool. A customer was constantly plagued with a car that would not start due to a dead battery. Over the course of a month, the stupid gas station owner sold and installed a new battery, new starter motor, new alternator, new regulator and new battery cables, all to no avail. When he finally ran out of electrical parts that he could change, one of the better mechanics began to really search for the cause which turned out to be a loose nut on the back of the ammeter. The nut was tightened and the problem went away. In the meantime, the customer's perfectly good parts were no longer available to be re-installed and the money he spent was also gone. I learned a lot from observing that experience as well as a few similar ones at that location.

A multimeter is easy to use. The initial test will take less than 5 minutes of your time. Send me a PM with your phone number and I will guide you through it.

 

[bellnygreen]

 

[hydriv]

I am somewhat confused by the two photos you posted.

The first photo depicts an engine from a 69 or 70 Case 444. Obviously, the flywheel has been removed for some time, judging by the rust on the crankshaft. The 2nd photo shows a Kohler K engine from a much later Case GT, 1978 or beyond.

At this point, you are still in a position to run tests yourself on the stator if you purchase a multimeter.

You came here looking for help and all I can do is offer it. If you wish to employ a shop to solve this problem, then all you have to do is say so and I will shut up.

 

[bellnygreen]

Hydriv - Sorry for the mixup. For some reason the written portion of the message was deleted. 1st photo is the motor on the 444. The second is the engine that is going to replace it. I picked it up early this summer with PTO and hydraulic pump included. The original (1st pic) is going out for a rebuild once the swap is completed. That info should have been included earlier. I was hoping to solve the charging problem before the engine was rebuilt. There are some excellent sites on the internet for elec trouble:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9N9EISHD24w is one of many

The flywheel on the 1st photo was removed earlier this summer. I assume the flywheel should be reattached to run the tests you recommend?