Dual Wheels

[Sysop]

I've been contemplating increasing the width of my tractor to the widest setting, which would correct one of two issues. I've thought also about adding dual wheels to the rear. I understand it is much more expensive than simply swapping the wheels to get a wider stance, but in addition to a wider stance it also draws the center of gravity down on the tractor by putting more weight down low, and it puts more surface area on the ground for improved traction and less sinking going over soft ground.

I've found a couple solutions to add dual wheels to a tractor, but I was wondering what sorts of experiences folk here may have had with such additions and what was used.

 

[farmall 55a case]

What type of tractor is it?

 

[JNYRCNG]

SUBSCRIBED

 

[Sysop]

My Mahindra 4035HST, not one of the big boys that you typically see duals on, but I've seen duals on tractors smaller than the 4035 in the past, and there are several kits available for my rim/tire size, so was wondering what all kits people have used and what experiences were with them.

 

[Renze]

The center of gravity of those duals is at the height of the wheel axle, really not that much lower than the tractors center of gravity...

 

[Redneck in training]

The tractor will roll when CG is outside of the widest point of the wheel contacting the ground. You can calculate the rolling angle:
Rolling angle=DEGREES(ATAN((Width/2)/CG_height))
In example:
CG height=2
Tractor width=5
Rolling angle=51 (100% reference)

Tractor width=5.5 (adding 3" wheel spacers)
Rolling angle=54
Improvement=6%

Tractor width=6.5
Rolling angle=58
Improvement=14.5%

Tractor width=7
Rolling angle=60
Improvement=18%

Tractor width=8
Rolling angle=63
Improvement=24%

 

[oldnslo]

My Mahindra 4035HST, not one of the big boys that you typically see duals on, but I've seen duals on tractors smaller than the 4035 in the past, and there are several kits available for my rim/tire size, so was wondering what all kits people have used and what experiences were with them.

We ran band style duals on our 5000 & 5600 Fords. 5000 was 13.8 x 38's 5600 16.9 x 34 if I remember correctly. We did this for floatation and traction more than stability. A word of caution, run the duals at very low PSI to help prevent breaking the axle.

 

[Sysop]

We ran band style duals on our 5000 & 5600 Fords. 5000 was 13.8 x 38's 5600 16.9 x 34 if I remember correctly. We did this for floatation and traction more than stability. A word of caution, run the duals at very low PSI to help prevent breaking the axle.

Are the band style the ones that use the "T-Bar" type attachment system? Basically a rim with no center and use connectors that connect them to the outer edges of the main center?


I was not only going to run them a little lighter on the pressure, I was also planning on using a set of tires that are worn down a little compared to my main tires so they wouldn't make much contact on hard ground. The only time they'll make good contact is once the original wheel starts biting into the ground.

 

[oldnslo]

Are the band style the ones that use the "T-Bar" type attachment system? Basically a rim with no center and use connectors that connect them to the outer edges of the main center?
View attachment 334538

I was not only going to run them a little lighter on the pressure, I was also planning on using a set of tires that are worn down a little compared to my main tires so they wouldn't make much contact on hard ground. The only time they'll make good contact is once the original wheel starts biting into the ground.

Yes, that is what I call band type. The only problem we ever had was mud packing in between the tires turning them into one long slimy mess.

If you get this style, tighten the clamp bolts, drive around for awhile, retighten bolts. May have to do this two or three times before everything gets seated and the bolts stay tight.

Installing them, we ran the rear tire up on a 4x plank and then just rolled the dual up in position. Hooked one of the bottom bolts, tipped the dual up and hooked one of the top bolts and started tightening them down.

removal, loosen the bolts and drive the dual over the 4x, 99% of the time the dual pops loose and you can roll it to the storage area.

 

[Sysop]

Awesome, and thanks for the tips! Was the issue with the mud packing inside the rim or between the two tires on the spacer?

The other style available is a hub attachment. Anyone used those?

 

[flusher]

I've been contemplating increasing the width of my tractor to the widest setting, which would correct one of two issues. I've thought also about adding dual wheels to the rear. I understand it is much more expensive than simply swapping the wheels to get a wider stance, but in addition to a wider stance it also draws the center of gravity down on the tractor by putting more weight down low, and it puts more surface area on the ground for improved traction and less sinking going over soft ground.

I've found a couple solutions to add dual wheels to a tractor, but I was wondering what sorts of experiences folk here may have had with such additions and what was used.

Duallies are one way to go. Here's another idea



That's my 1964 MF135 diesel -- a field tractor that's been modified for orchard work. The usual 28-32" dia rear wheels have been replaced by 16" dia wheels carrying BF Goodrich 6-ply 18.4-16A rubber (18" wide, 16" dia rim, 40" tall overall). The front axle spindles have been shortened to keep the tractor level. The rears are filled with water (no problem with freezing here in the North Sacramento Valley). Result: low CG and large track width = high flotation, stability on slopes. Those rears are stocked by many tire retailers that supply the agricultural market.

Good luck

 

[Sysop]

Sweet ride, I've seen some of your pics of it in other threads. I bet it's a stump puller and a half. Those are not mods I'm willing to attempt on a brand new machine, and that's even before beginning a discussion about what would be involved in doing such mods to a 4WD. I'd rather the modification be a bolt-on of some sort.

My line of thinking was with a dually setup, especially the T-Bar type discussed on the previous page would be an ideal thing for part time use whereas swapping my tires around would give me width, but not something I'd change as often (sometimes I wouldn't want it really wide, which is why I initially chose the middle width setting for my tires). Another thought I had also was if I went with the dually setup, I could have my tire guy remove a few gallons of rimguard from the main tires and put it in the outers. Taking some of the rimguard weight from the uppermost parts of the inner tires and putting it down low in the outer tires would further draw down the center of gravity for when the hill work occurs, and it would lighten the tractor up when they're not installed for day to day flatland tasks...

 

[milkman]

oldnslo, maybe something like this? Might give you some ideas.

Picasa Web Albums - Hurschel - Project

 

[Sysop]

oldnslo, maybe something like this? Might give you some ideas.

Picasa Web Albums - Hurschel - Project

That appears to be the same way the T-Bar setup works except he's using the lugs and made extensions. Fella does nice work. For the larger tractors I'd think you would need some sort of a spacer at the hub to support those lug extensions depending on how much support goes on the spacer that fits between the rims. I'd still be worried on a machine weighing between 6000 and 8000 pounds depending on the setup.

 

[oldnslo]

Awesome, and thanks for the tips! Was the issue with the mud packing inside the rim or between the two tires on the spacer?

Yes between the tires.

The other style available is a hub attachment. Anyone used those?

I have driven tractors with this style and they require that the axle be long enough to support another hub. These allow for the option of "row crop" duals where you can straddle corn rows with duals on.

 

[sandman2234]

I built a set of adaptors for my Ford 1100 sub compact 4wd tractor. I was in negotiations with a friend that had some bay front property over in the panhandle of Florida and I knew I would need some flotation to keep it from sinking. All I did was take a piece of 3 or 4 inch pipe, weld flanges on each end that had been drilled with the bolt pattern, with one side drilled and tapped. Bolted them on with the inside wheel bolts and then bolted the outside tire on. The outer tires were Ag, the inner ones were turf which were just a little taller than the Ag's. Sold the tractor later without duals, and the first trip around the yard the tractor broke an axle. Don't know if the duals had anything to do with that, but my Ford 7710 also broke not one but two axles and it had duals also.
David from jax