Drying welding rods

[Chilly807]

I've been experimenting with drying out some old 7018 rods. I say old, I really have no idea how long they were exposed to the air.

A $5 toaster oven (well used from the look of it), a little fiddling with the thermostat (might want to keep the missus from using this one), and I can get at least 650 degrees F with thermostatic control. I haven't tried to go any higher, I think you'd have to insulate the case a bit better to go much higher than 700-750 degrees.

I'd recommend using it on a non-flammable surface, and allow a good cool-down period to be sure it's safe to leave when you're done. It's designed for 400 degrees max, God alone knows what kind of safety factor is built in.

Anyway, it seems to work quite well. The manufacturer of the rods calls for 1 hour at 600-700 degrees to remove unwanted moisture.

Uh-oh.. I think I hear the safety police pulling up outside..

Sean

 

[dcyrilc]

Uh-oh.. I think I hear the safety police pulling up outside..

Sean

Nope, just me.

Wouldn't it be easier just to not leave them out in the rain?:laughing:

 

[Window Geek]

Wouldn't 500 degrees be enough compared to 80 degrees in high humidity?
I remember a guy using two cookie sheets faced together on a hot plate to dry out the rods on a humid day. It was like taking old rods and making them new again!

Honey? I told you we shouldn't have thrown out that old toaster oven...:laughing:

 

[DaveOmak]

I am glad you checked before you dried the 7018's.
I have read somewhere that drying rods with a certain type of coating, I can't recall at his time, can explode or start a fire or something dangerous.
Electrodes classified E-XX10, E-XX11, E-XX12 & E-XX13
are not recommended to be stored in a holding oven and reconditioning is not done.
That info is from rodovens.com.
I am sure there is other info that would be helpful to others on the web.
Dave

 

[Chilly807]

The thing with 7018 is that the flux absorbs moisture more so than other rods, which can lead to porosity in the weld. Porosity will fail a weld inspection every time, which may not be a problem for most of us. I like to get the best weld I can, regardless of inspection, so I'll dry mine if I can do it easily.

Sean

 

[AHNC]

I have a Miller Synchrowave 180 for stick and tig. I generally run 6010 and 7018 as that is what I did when welding for a living. AS I don't use the stick rod often and live in a humid environment, I will put a handful into the oven to pre-heat it. I do this more to remove the moisture. I get a bit of benefit by a 250F preheat, but as previously noted by eliminating the moisture I get good welds...If I do my part. I make sure my wife isn't home and put it on tin foil on the oven rack.

 

[638]

When I need a good weld using 7018, I heat each stick with a propane torch. Slow, I know, but I don't use enough 7018 to justify an oven.

 

[gauthier]

Never heard of a rod blowing up in a rod oven,but you don't put anything really but low hi in an oven,,6010 types coating will fall off,they have moisture IN the coating and are supposed to,,,which leads me to say,why are you home type guys even using a 7018 to begin with,use one that don't require an oven,,just a thought [or a propane torch:confused2:]

 

[luscsmith]

I don't know if it is safe or not but I turn my machine down low and short the rod out and warm it up.

Scott

 

[westbrooklawn]

I buy 5 lbs. of 7018 at a time, and when I open a box I immediately put it in a rod holder tube (plastic type... air and water sealed) along with a small dessicant pack similar to this one: MidwayUSA - Advanced Search

I have found this eliminates the moisture problem I used to have with 7018 rods.