Drive shaft won't lock onto tractor's PTO

momcilma · Oct 6, 2015

I just bought a Woods rotary cutter and have a problem with the drive shaft coupling locking to my tractor's PTO output shaft.
The 1-3/8 coupling on the drive shaft slides onto the PTO easily but only half way. The locking ball bearings (there are 3 balls) won't unlock when I rotate the plastic collar on the end of the shaft. I tried pressing it and some light hammering thinking I could force it all the way on. But it wouldn't go past the wear the balls have to compress to go onto the PTO.
On my other 3-point implements I simply slide the shaft onto the PTO and rotate that plastic collar about 30 degrees or so and the locking ball bearings release so the shaft can go on the rest of the way. And, when I let go of the collar it's spring loaded and returns to the starting position and the balls are now locked and the drive shaft won't come off the PTO.

1) Do manufacturers like Weasler make replacement parts for this? The rest of the drive shaft is in good shape; just this locking mechanism won't release.
2) Has anyone ever repaired one of these before? It doesn't feel spring-loaded like the other drive shafts I have.

Thanks,
Mark

MORRISONSTEEL · Oct 6, 2015

Probably just as well off replacing the yoke instead of repairing the lock mechanism. If the repair doesn't work right but allows you to connect but comes off during operation then you are buying the complete d-line. Depending on the cat of your d-line is probably not that expensive even w/ a new cross. Also keep in mind not all collar style coupling are rotated to release, some are pushed, some are pulled. Even though you feel tension when turning does not necc mean it is that style of a collar.

bigdeano · Oct 6, 2015

Have you tried pulling the collar (away from the tractor) instead of turning it? That's how mine works.

Tx Jim · Oct 6, 2015

Lubrication of the 3 balls also helps attaching/detaching.

Gary Fowler · Oct 6, 2015

First time I tried to unhook my Bush Hog brand BH after it was on the tractor for a while, I fought and fought trying to move the collar back and it wouldn't move. Finally I pushed it forward (it slides both directions) and it slid right off. A bit hard to push the collar forward and pull back at the same time but is sure is easy to put it on. I keep saying that I am going to paint some arrows on it showing the correct way to pull the collar. I haven't used my BH in 3 years now since the yearly drought we seem to have allows the cows to keep everything down.

bumperm · Oct 6, 2015

There's only three possibilities, push, pull, or twist. If none of that works, then the judicious application of the proper explosives will solve most any mechanical problem.

bumper

momcilma · Oct 6, 2015

Problem solved. I just got the drive shaft on by pulling back on the collar and pushing in on the shaft. No explosives needed... Many thanks to all who posted.
Now if I can figure out why I cut clean thru the shear bolt on power up I'll be in great shape. I think it was because the cutter was laying on the ground. Maybe I should start the PTO with the cutter elevated. Are there different HP grades of shear pins. The Woods XT160 rotary cutter calls for 1/2 inch grade 2 bolt.
Thanks

bumperm · Oct 7, 2015

Only use the grade of bolt that's called for, unmarked head bolts if grade 1 or 2. For some applications a grade 5 bolt is called for (3 radial lines 120 degrees apart on the head). The advantage of a grade 5 is that it tends to shear more cleanly and doesn't "wipe or smear" as the lower grade bolts sometimes do, making it more difficult to remove from the joint. BUT, the equipment has to be designed for the stronger grade 5. Replacing a grade 2 with grade 5 would likely damage equipment before shearing.

My snowblower uses special shear bolts with a groove in the smooth portion of the bolt shank to line up with shear point - this also prevents wiping. They are really proud of those bolts though, so I make my own on the lathe.

Tx Jim · Oct 7, 2015

momcilma said:
P
Now if I can figure out why I cut clean thru the shear bolt on power up I'll be in great shape. I think it was because the cutter was laying on the ground. Maybe I should start the PTO with the cutter elevated. Are there different HP grades of shear pins. The Woods XT160 rotary cutter calls for 1/2 inch grade 2 bolt.
Thanks

Are you turning on the tractor pto for the Woods XT160 at or near idle speed????

Gary Fowler · Oct 7, 2015

I totally disagree with statement to use only grade 2 bolts if that is what they call for. IF you are shearing the bolts at start up when at idle or just above, then obviously the bolt is either too small or too soft. The shear bolt is to protect your tractor and only incidentally the bush hog. Get some grade 5 bolts and replace the soft grade 2. You will still protect the equipment but not have to change out nearly as many bolts.

My brother in law had to do the same thing with his, it would shear on start up even at near idle. If it didn't shear completely at start up, it damaged the shear to the point that it would soon shear in light grass without hitting any obstacle. Grade 5 bolts reduced the shearing by about 90% although it will still shear when he forgets to idle down to less than 1500 rpm before engaging.

These new tractors without a clutch and with the electric solenoid switch that engages the PTO seem to be really hard on the equipment what with the instant on. I don't like that at all.