Dressing Up A Scratched Cylinder Rod???

Dougster · Oct 20, 2007

Yes folks, MY BAD!!!

I managed to scratch up the bucket cylinder rod on my Bradco 509 backhoe recently while digging under a large rock which I was trying to deep bury. So far, no leaks... and I will replace the rod this winter for sure... but for now, is there any practical way to "dress up" the wound so as to preserve the seals as much and as long as possible?

Or will any sort of sanding/polishing/etc. of the cylinder rod just make matters worse?

And if I can't do anything, can the pros do anything? Or would I just be wasting money.

Dougster

MtnViewRanch · Oct 20, 2007

Doug, you worry to much.

Use it until it becomes a problem, then replace it. It's going to cost more to repair it than to replace it. Check on a ram 1st, but I think that you could get a new cylinder for the same $$$ or less. If the scratch has sharp edges, use some emery cloth to ease them.

Heck your so busy now that you are turning work down and are considering expanding. Must be nice to go from stale bread and old out of date peanut butter to steak and lobster in such a short time.

I know, I know it's sporadic. Well good luck with your problems.

kennyd · Oct 20, 2007

If the is deeply gouged, then it can be filled with brazing material, then sanded/buffed smooth. Some say that JB weld can also be used. This is a permanent repair-replacement should only be necessary if the rod is bent.
If there is a raise burr, you should file that off ASAP so as not to completely wreck the seals.

Dougster · Oct 20, 2007

MtnViewRanch said:
Doug, you worry to much. Use it until it becomes a problem, then replace it. It's going to cost more to repair it than to replace it. Check on a ram 1st, but I think that you could get a new cylinder for the same $$$ or less. If the scratch has sharp edges, use some emery cloth to ease them.

Nothing from Bradco is ever cheap... but I've got to believe that the rod and associated seals, etc. would be cheaper to replace than buying a brand new cylinder. If not, I am in bigger trouble than I thought.

MtnViewRanch said:
Heck your so busy now that you are turning work down and are considering expanding. Must be nice to go from stale bread and old out of date peanut butter to steak and lobster in such a short time. I know, I know it's sporadic. Well good luck with your problems.

Oh Brother!!! Whatever you're drinking... pour me one!!!

Trust me, I am still subsisting on generic peanut butter and stale bread sandwiches. Don't let my questions about adding a possible second machine throw you. That would be a pure survival move... not exactly a celebration of my wild, runaway success!

Dougster

Dougster · Oct 20, 2007

kennyd said:
If the is deeply gouged, then it can be filled with brazing material, then sanded/buffed smooth. Some say that JB weld can also be used. This is a permanent repair-replacement should only be necessary if the rod is bent. If there is a raise burr, you should file that off ASAP so as not to completely wreck the seals.

It is not deeply gouged... more like scratched or lightly gouged... although there is clearly a burr or three.

Assuming that I should remove the burr and try to re-polish the resulting surface... exactly what products would you recommend using.

Dougster

Georgia Boy · Oct 20, 2007

All the rod rubs is the wiper seal so sand it down and it will be OK.

kennyd · Oct 20, 2007

I would knock the raised burrs off carefully with a fine file, then polish with 600 then 1200 grit sandpaper.

Dougster · Oct 20, 2007

Georgia Boy said:
All the rod rubs is the wiper seal so sand it down and it will be OK.

There is also a pressure seal against the rod in the cylinder gland called the "Poly Pak Seal", Bradco part number 45117. This is the one I fear will soon start leaking.

Dougster

Dougster · Oct 20, 2007

kennyd said:
I would knock the raised burrs off carefully with a fine file, then polish with 600 then 1200 grit sandpaper.

Makes sense. I assume we are talking wet sanding/polishing here.

Are these cylinder rods typically made of solid stainless steel? Or are they merely nickel or chrome plated steel? I can't tell.

Dougster

Follow-up: Opps...

Forget the question. It's obviously plated steel 'cause I just took a closer look and I can already see rust forming!

-d

kennyd · Oct 20, 2007

As you found out, it's a very hard steal that chrome plated. The brazing method will eliminate the rust problem also. Do you have a local hydraulic shop in your area? You should get this fixed before the chrome starts coming off. It should not be expensive YET