DR Field And Brush Walk Behind Mowers

[Cabinholler]

Does anyone know anything about the large DR Field And Brush Walk Behind Mowers? Also, where is the best place to buy one of these mowers?

I would like to know your pros and cons on this brand of brush mower.

Cabinholler

The water will never clear up until you get the hogs out of the pond. (That is you got to find what the problem is, and eliminate it).

 

[slowrev]

Not sure where to get em. My neighbor has one I have used. If you have uneven ground they will work ya pretty hard. but work ok a cutting stuff down.
Ben

 

[JackIL]

I have owned 3 and currently have the 17 hp 30 inch wide cut version that I really like. Sold the previous lower horsepower models which had 26 inch decks because the wheel tread widths were wider than the decks, and I also wanted more power.

I bought the original one from Country Home Products (www.countryhomeproducts.com) and the last from a local DR dealer. There aren't too many local dealers in my part of the country.

I primarily use it on steep slopes and ditch banks. It works great, but as others have commented, the machine will work you too especially on slopes. It does have a hand brake so you can prevent it from rolling back which is a great saftey feature when you are turning around on slopes.

Country Home Products provides great support by phone. I suggest you order the video tape on the mower and look at it several times. It is gives a good overall presentation of the product.

JackIL

 

[Willman]

I too have the 26" model with the 15hp Kawasaki engine.
Its a fine machine and was the largest size & engine wise when I purchased.
I would like to get the 30" model for the extra width plus for the attachments now available.
When I did buy directly from DR they told me about the snowblower that was to come out soon.
When I called later on to see about getting a blower they told me the machine was re-enginered and the blower cannot be used on the older units. (I missed by about a year)

 

[BarryinMN]

I've had the 15 hp version for several years. Use (abuse) it mowing steep banks & swamp bottoms. The blade is belt driven so it slips if a stump or rock gets jammed. It's goona try & cut so rocks do shatter & sparks go flying!! The machine devours anything it can push over and more stuff with 2-3 tries. Motor is smooth & powerful.

Mine is a bear to start probably related to the abuse under 30F.

 

[BrianSouthernMD]

Cabinholler,
I've used my 17hp DR Field & Brush Mower for over two years and several hundred hours and highly recommend it. /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif A key advantage is the 30" cutting width of the brush deck for the 17hp Kawasaki and 18hp Honda models of DR. The competitor brush mowers only come with 24" (Billy Goat Outback) or 25" (Ferris, Snapper and Simplicity) cutting widths. That limits their ability to get through larger saplings and woodsy material that the 17hp & 18hp 30" DRs handle.

I have the 30" brush deck, 42" finish mower deck and just recently received the new DR 6000W generator attachment. I don't have to worry about being sure a separate generator engine is working when needed (I know the DR engine is started and used regularly) and I can easily move the DR to have power at remote, isolated locations.

I have 100+ acres like you do. Even with any larger equipment you might have, you'll find uses for the DR brush mower throughout your property on steep slopes, between close trees in woods, etc.

To see more comments, look at this previous thread: DR Brush Mowers, Finish Mowers and generator. And just order a new or reconditioned model directly from CHP/DR Power, unless DR Power has a sales and service dealer nearby (most likely a small engine repair shop or an equipment rental store).

 

[IslandTractor]

I have the 13hp Briggs and Stratton model. I bought it used and it now has about 50 hours on it. Works as advertised. No complaints except that I cannot get the blade off (bolt is on so tight) so I just sharpen the blade in situ by flipping the deck over and using a grinder.

The thing is a beast. I have used it largely to clear brush including saplings up to 2 inches. The rating DR gives regarding size of saplings you can cut with different engines is only a rough guide. Basically if you can push the sapling over the mower will handle it.

If I was buying new I'd spring for one of the Kawasaki engines but having said that the B&S has been flawless. I just started it two days ago in 25 degree weather after not running it for three months. Started right up.

If you buy new and don't need the mower immediately, keep checking the country home products website as they periodically throw shipping in for free. They never charge retail price for the mowers either so don't be rushed by their marketing gimicks.

 

[Cabinholler]

I am thinking about buying the 17 hp commercial DR brush mower with a 30 inch brush mower, but I have some questions to ask anyone that owns one of these DR brush mowers here on the TBN. (1) I don't think the mower has a alternator on it to charge the battery, and I was wondering if the engine could be cranked by hand using a rope on top of the flywheel? (2) Can the handlebars fold down when hauling the mower? (3) The skids on the mower looks kind of weak to me in the pictures of the mower, and has anyone had problems wearing the skids out on the mower? (4) This brush mower doesn't have a hydrostatic transmission, and I wish it did, but it has 4 speed transmission with a clutch. Has anyone had problems with this manual transmission? (5) Also, I think the axle has pos track for the wheels, and I have been told that the newer models have a differential lock on the axle just like a farm utility tractor, but I am not sure of this. Does anyone know for sure that the new models have a differential lock on them like on a utility farm tractor? (6) Does this brush mower have any grease fittings on it? (7) Also, is the oil filter and oil drain plug easy to get to when changing oil and oil filter? (8) Does all of the levers on the handlebars work ok without any problems? (9) If I have missed anything about asking on this brush mower, please inform me about it.

I know that I have asked a lot of questions about this brush mower, but I hate to buy any piece of equipment without looking at it in person. This is a brush mower that cost more than just a few dollars.

I appreciate any replies from anyone on the TBN that owns one of these DR brush mowers about the questions that I have asked above.

Cabinholler

The water will never clear up until you get the hogs out of the pond. (You got to find what the problem is, and eliminate it).

 

[IslandTractor]

1) My smaller version has either an alternator or some dynamo type device to charge the battery. No worries on that issue.
2) Handlebars do not fold down but you can simply detach the mowing deck. When you detach the mowing deck the mower will "collapse" to two pieces that would fit into the back of an SUV with middle seat folded down.
3) No problem with the skids. They are plenty tough. The only trouble I've had with this skid design is that it is possible to snag a root or limb when reversing and that will trap the mower. Fix is just to advance again and watch to make sure you don't pick up the root on the way back.
4) No problem with the manual transmission. I would not want a hydrostatic because then you'd have to be watching the throttle constantly. With this simple manual tranny you get used to picking your gear for the type of mowing/brush cutting and just walk behind the machine. Really it is no problem.
5) Not sure what the differential is but I've never gotten stuck. First gear will drive through most anything.
6) I cannot recall grease fittings right now. Mower is 80 miles away.
7) Oil change is no problem. On the B&S engine all filters are readily accessible.
8) Handlebar levers are well built and work as advertised. This is not a cheaply built mower. Nor is it overly sophisticated. The systems are well built and sized reasonably for heavy duty brush mowing. Way overkill for regular lawn mowing even though they have a finish mower attachment. The finish mower is just a convenience item, no one in their right mind would buy this beast to simply mow a yard.
9) I don't think there are any serious negatives about the machine. My only issues after owning mine for a year and putting on 30+ hours, has been that it is appropriately sized for between half and acre to two acres of regular mowing. Much more than that and you'd be better off with a small CUT and brush cutter. Much less than that and it would probably make sense to use a heavy duty weed wacker for the brush. The other reason to get it is to handle special situations where a CUT cannot get to (next to a pond, between tightly packed trees etc).

Overall, I'd give the DR mower two thumbs up. Well designed and built for what it is intended to do.

 

[BarryinMN]

1. Kawasaki has an alternator, no provision for a rope pull, don't think I'd want to rope start anyway.
2. Handlebars do not fold, cutter detaches off the front. it takes up most of the bed of a 6 1/2 chevy.
3. Skids don't bend but do snag, push down on bars -swivel sideways & contine on.
4. Manual clutch & gears no issue I rubber band the operator presence lever (ignition) on the other bar allows walking along side already cut area let go of clutch machine drive stops not motor blade.
5. Mine does not have differential locker don't know it needs it the tires are fat wide knobby's & grab at anything & go push down on handlebars to transfer weight from cutter to wheels. I'd forget the locker & bust a gut trying to turn the thing see item #4 turn around with one hand.
6. No grease fittings I recall.
7. Air oil filters drains & plugs all out in open. Wal-Mart stocks oil filters.
8. I rubber band the ign lever
9. The only thing I would modify on the whole machine is raise the handlebars 3-4". Have not done it yet as don't run it enough hours/yr to get motivated.

It's ergonomically proportioned for a runt.