DR Field and Brush Mower?

   / DR Field and Brush Mower? #1  

kbarrett

Silver Member
Joined
Mar 14, 2002
Messages
191
Location
Lowell - Just East of Grand Rapids
Tractor
Exmark Turf Ranger - TR22KC604
Anyone have experience with a DR Field and Brush Mower? I've heard positive feedback and some negatives (weak clutch?)

Their new design seems attractive (with the ability to quickly add various attachments etc.)
 
   / DR Field and Brush Mower? #2  
<A target="_blank" HREF=http://www.tractorbynet.com/cgi-bin/compact/showthreaded.pl?Cat=&Board=rural&Number=56662&page=&view=&sb=&o=&vc=1#Post56662>DR Field & Brush Mower...</A>

18-35197-JD5205JFMsignaturelogo.JPG
 
   / DR Field and Brush Mower? #3  
I've had mine for 2 years now, and love it. I went with the 15 HP Kaw, and the 46" lawn deck. We use it mainly for trimming in our commercial mowing business, and some right of way mowing. All I've had to replace is the clutch cable. The machine has about 100 hours on it. I've found it to be just as advertized, what ever it will knock over, it will mow.

Paul
 
   / DR Field and Brush Mower?
  • Thread Starter
#4  
Paul,

Thanks for the vote of confidence on this machine.

Spoke with DR today on the phone. They indicated that the 15HP model in high gear will travel at 5.5mph. (Sounds like a jogging pace :) to me). Good for burning calories.

Anyway, it sounds like a good piece of equipment. They were very friendly on the phone and answered all of my questions concerning pricing, durability etc.

It sounds as though it would be a pretty handy machine on my property. I would probably get the finish mower deck and snow throw attachment if I buy one. Still in the valley of decision.

Paul, do you find the build quality to be pretty good? It appears to be pretty sturdy.
 
   / DR Field and Brush Mower? #5  
I also have the DR Brush mower with the 15 horse Kawasaki. I like it but it has limitations. First you need to realize that it is small. If you lots of brush 26 inches turns into a big work day. Also when the temp drops I have a hard time starting the engine. Runs great after it gets going but it takes starting fluid to light it up. Also since you dont have wheels you are always dragging the guards whenever you're moving. I bent the right guard bar when I backed up and the open guard bar was trapped under a root. Took a couple of hours of pounding to straighten that out. It will definatly go 5.5 miles per hour, you just don't want to start in 4th gear or it will pull your arms off. 4th gear means 5.5 MPH NOW. The machine is going to cost you $2300 or so dollars. If you want to add the other attachments now you have a real investment, up to $5000. There might be a cheaper or more efficient way to get where you're going.
 
   / DR Field and Brush Mower? #6  
I have the 15 hp Model and it has served me very well. This size of machine is well-suited for areas where you can't conveniently use a full-size tractor. I use mine on very steep slopes, on ditch banks, and in wooded areas. No problem starting or operating.
 
   / DR Field and Brush Mower? #7  
I've found the quality to be very high. So far, just the clutch cable has been replaced. I've done some late fall brush mowing, in the snow, with no starting or operating problems. I did buy an extra mower drive belt in town, and it was not the same exact size as needed. I've since bought replacement belts from DR. My machine did not come with an hour meter, nor was it listed as an option. I called DR and talked with teck support, they suggested that I not retrofit the machine. My VOM told me different in the key switch, and now it has an hour meter.

Just make sure this is the way you should go. I paid $1900 for mine, and as suggusted above, there may be different attachments for your tractor. Just make the right decision for you.

Paul
 
   / DR Field and Brush Mower? #8  
I got one last year and have beat the heck out of it. We use it on the steep stuff and for clearing paths through the wild rose and nasty stuff. We can walk through the trails and so do the the deer. If figure the way I have used it, has been a real test to its durability. I changed belts at the the start of the year and do all the oil and lube maintenance. Be sure you clean the air filters since we got a lot of dust and seed in it. Just had to make sure the clutch was tight when I changed the drive belt. I think I'll change the fuel filter later this spring. I have about 80 hours total on it in little over a year. I just keep a log and track it that way. I have the 15HP but it is not the quick attachment change version. This is not a problem, since I got a MF 243 late last year for the big stuff. I got a lot of help from the folks on the this forum while I did my research. Good bunch of folks - who helped me with the process. I also got the DR 18HP Chipper this spring and the quality seems to be the same as the mower. The only problem was a flat. I thought they had the sealer in the tires. Pulled it off and added the "slime" to both tires and things are okay.

For those who helped me with the tractor research, things are going well. The MF243 is the right size for the hilly 100 acres. We've had a ton of rain in OH this spring and I started mowing yesterday. That puppy pulls right through the soft stuff and keeps the Woods Mower going. Your guidance on bigger is better is true.

BigErn
 
   / DR Field and Brush Mower? #9  
One more little thing that I consider a negative. The DR Brush Mower is heavy. Especially the 15 HP version. Since you don't have wheels in the front everytime you need to turn you have to push down on the handles to lift the front off the ground and then you push or pull left or right to turn. After about 10 min of this I'm feeling like Popeye. Needless to say, my wife will never use this machine.
Also the clutch and brake handles are made of light weight metel and bend easily. I'm not selling mine yet as it does cut brush, just don't expect a bed of roses.
 
   / DR Field and Brush Mower? #10  
Kevin--for what it's worth, I'm putting mine back (Kaw 15 HP)on the pallet as soon as I run out the gas (as requested by DR prior to return). At the outset, their money-back guarantee is exactly as advertised--no questions asked. I'd planned to post the following information at some point, but thought it might be helpful now.

I had some early problems with DR; the whees were not shipped for the finish deck, for example, and a couple of wires were misconnected (it would start fine, but would not shut down--had to pull the plug wires)--obviously some QA/QC issues. But I worked it out with DR because the machine seemed like exactly what I needed for mowing steep banks and bushhogging woods trails. They were very helpful (although they sent the wrong wheel parts the first time), and extended the 30-day period to begin when I got everything (an extra two weeks). They shipped by ABF, and the driver unloaded the pallet so I did't have to come home.

I pulled the figurative plug on keeping the DR because I found that it has no ability to traverse even a moderate slope; it wants in the worst way to head off in the downhill direction and, even worse, to lift the high wheel off the ground as it does. While the limited slip is undoubtedly an excellent feature, I still found that with no slip on the grounded wheel, the one in the air would turn by itself--all in all, a precarious operation everytime I tried slopes from side to side.

It can go up and down pretty well. The transmission holds really well, and the brakes do to. But the power unit seems to have a high CG and the mower or cutter deck floats on a pivot point, so that it cannot contribute any stability at all if you get at all sideways--or even diagonal. I also had some trouble backing it up steep slopes, which may have been due in part to tire tread filling up with clay.

That was enough for me--it just doesn't fill the bill for our hills. There are for sure several good things:

Decks really do change in about 5 minutes, once you figure out a routine.

The rotary cutter really will cut anything it can bend down. Also, it is lighter than the bush hog and will go up over some nasty stuff the bush hog insists on trying to eat--usually to the detriment of the shear pin. I was able to clear some scrub which had overgrown 3-5" logs, and the cutter cleared them off with no complaint so I could clear them out.

The finish mower deck does a credible, although not pro-mower, cutting job.

Good headlight.

Hour meter doubles as tach, oil-change timer, and probably some other stuff.

The Kawasaki engine seems great.

Here are the other down sides:

The controls seem to me just a little cheap. The gear selector is a little jerky, wants to skip first, and needs to be ticked into reverse. The dead-man did not work at all until I lubricated it, and then sometimes seemed to stick, shutting the engine down when the blade was disengaged (I know this one sounds like operator error, but I watched it pretty close). Cutting requires squeezing a bottom handle (clutch) up and a top handle (dead-man) down on the same (left) side, which for me made it a trick to stop moving without the mower thinking I wanted to shut it down.

Like JimMO said, turning is an all-manual operation. I was used to this growing up with and owning Gravleys, but the DR is somehow harder to turn--Jim describes it pretty well. Additionally, because of the pivoting decks, the rotary cutter can swing sideways on a turn on rough ground, making a tight turn more challenging. Turning with the finish deck is easier, but still--don't think there's anything ZTR about these. Although my wife is used to Gravelys, she can't wield this around (although, don't tell her I said this, she is getting just a wee bit older /w3tcompact/icons/wink.gif.)

Hour meter came with no instructions, and after 6 hours, started to flash constantly.

Price. $3300 (cutter, mower, chains, light, hour meter).

Good luck.
 

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