Dpf, regen cycles, fuel additives....

[spruce Deere]

Been awhile since I have been on tbn. Since joining tbn, some new "things" have become prevalent on compact tractors...
We recently purchased a brand new LS XR3140H. With a cab, heat, a/c, dpf other bells and whistles its QUITE a jump from the ever dependable JD 790.
Between plowing snow and other chores being done with the LS it has acquired 15 hours already, we got it home early December. I decided to do an early regeneration cycle for the dpf or 'diesel particulate filter' with some idle and none of the work was really done at higher rpm's but at full engine temp. On this LS tractor you can 'force' a Regeneration before it automatically does. It was about twenty minutes.
Researching the dpf regeneration topic, there is fuel additives that supposed to cut down and help with regeneration cycles and keep the dpf cleaner longer.
I have read in the owners manual on dpf cycling but would like some members input on 'diesel particulate filter' equipped tractors

 

[jaydee325]

If the owners manual does not recommend any additives, I don't use them. IMHO, they are just marketing hyperbole.

Use fresh, dry, seasonal fuel for your location and you will be fine. And, get the RPMs up no mater what your are doing to maximize heat in the exhaust. I believe this is recommended in many owners manuals.

 

[RSR]

I have an LS XR4145. I can't speak to the additives, but I can speak to idle speed. You need to make sure it runs hot, continuously. This means no idle, other than for warm up and cool down.

After 1-2 minute warm up for the turbo, I bring mine up to 1500 RPM until the engine comes up to temp. After that, I run it at 2,000 RPM, MINIMUM.

My first 50'ish hours were largely spent snow blowing at PTO RPM under load. My tractor went into its first regen at 50.0 hours. Apparently, this is a backup software setting where if it hasn't sensed the need to regenerate by 50 hours it will force it to. As I entered into Spring, I ran my tractor doing land tasks and loader work keeping it at 1,500 RPM (that is what my dealer recommended). My second regen after running at 1,500 RPM was 30 hours later.

After that, I started running at 2,000+ RPM for everything. It's now been 40 hours since my last regen. I figure my next one will be soon, or forced at 50 hours.

So, anecdotally, there is a noticeable difference in time between regen running at 1,500 vs 2,000 RPM.

Take home message: Don't run at idle. Higher RPMs are better.

 

[JCoastie]

I have a LS MT240, and went through an auto regen 2 days ago. I've read things from additive companies talking about a cleaner burn, but really wonder if there is an actual DPF sensor that monitors things, or if the CPU just tracks hours/RPM,etc and decides to run a regen regardless of actual measured/observed/accumulated particulate matter.
I just purchased some of this additive Amazon.com: Howes 1?3?67 Meaner Power Diesel Kleaner with IDX4 Detergent- 1 Quart: Automotive for my next full ups, I've never used it before, so have no opinion on it. I'm in a warmer climate, so didn't use their lauded winter product. Lots of good reviews all over the web for their winter version, but again, I've never used it. Amazon.com: Howes 1?3?6? 'Diesel Treat' Diesel Conditioner and Anti-Gel - 64 oz.: Automotive
Mine idles probably a lot more than it should. Not idling while IT is working, but idling while it's waiting for me to work before it gets used. I tent to be on/off it a lot, so it idles while I'm off it.

 

[jeff9366]

There are fuel additives that are supposed to help with regeneration cycles and keep the dpf cleaner longer.

I would be hesitant about using any fuel additive not recommended in your Owner's Manual.

The DPF is very hot during regeneration. Hard for me to imagine how any liquid would not be vaporized immediately and pass out with other exhaust.

Regeneration itself is high heat converting oily soot to ash. Not very complicated.

I have an Kubota L3560, put into service in January 2013, with 1,800 engine hours. So far L3560 has never failed to go through a complete regeneration, sometimes automatically, more often parked, without problems. While I do not log regenerations, there have been about thirty +/-. My regenerations last 16 minutes each, with little variation. Regenerations occur once every 60 engine hours with only minor variations between intervals.

Use fresh, dry, seasonal fuel for your location and you will be fine.

YES.

 

[rScotty]

Regeneration itself is high heat converting oily soot to ash. Not very complicated.

YES.

I've been wanting to ask this, and apologize if it sounds simplistic. But if that is all regeneration does, where's the advantage? Is oily soot less of a hazard than ash? I'd have thought the hazard would be greater when putting dry, finely-powdered ash into the air more than just dealing with the oily soot.

rScotty

 

[spruce Deere]

Thanks for the responses fellas! I do think higher rpm's are key to clean exhaust along with an engine at operating temp. kinda why i did an early regen. As far as the automatic regeneration on my LS is triggered it's exhaust pack pressure, I believe, that is monitored till a certain pressure is reached. 50-ish hours seems to be the first auto regeneration in LS tractors.
Right now the only fuel additive in my fuel is power service white bottle. I run it year round as it is suppose to increase the cetane (sp)?, Lubrication qualities of fuel and no jelling. Not to mention the 790 has always starts smoother with ps in the fuel.

 

[i7win7]

If DPF filters and regens are a way to trap air pollution in the big cities and contaminate "fly-over country" then why do tractors that live and work in "fly-over country" need it? :thumbdown:

 

[spruce Deere]

If DPF filters and regens are a way to trap air pollution in the big cities and contaminate "fly-over country" then why do tractors that live and work in "fly-over country" need it?

I feel ya...it just seems pointless for off-road equipment emissions crap.

 

[fried1765]

If DPF filters and regens are a way to trap air pollution in the big cities and contaminate "fly-over country" then why do tractors that live and work in "fly-over country" need it?

I feel ya...it just seems pointless for off-road equipment emissions crap.

And.......that is EXACTLY why I will NEVER own ANY off road equipment with that emissions crap!