Do you like Rear Hydraulic Remotes on an L3130?

Theowegian · Apr 12, 2004

Ive ordered a L3130, (w/ a FEL) last week, but now Im wonderin' if maybe I should ask the dealer to install one rear hyd remote. Is the actuating lever in the way most of the time or neatly tucked somewhere that I wouldnt always be bumping into it?

I would love to have a log splitter, too, but dont know if it would be an open or closed center type remote that is needed. I burn wood as my primary heat...3-4 cords per winter.

I was also considering a hyd toplink. I would have to have at least one remote to power it, right? A full Top-N-Tilt was quoted to me as $1700. Ouch, too much $$.

Could the FEL connections be used to power a hyd top link if the FEL was unhooked? (Just make longer hoses back to the Top link?) Im getting a Quick Attach FEL bucket. Could a rear remote, be used for a FEL attachment, like a jackhammer?

Bottom line is Im looking seriously at ordering this tractor with a rear remote, and Im wondering if you TBNers think it is a wise purchase?

thanks, dwight

GV40U · Apr 12, 2004

I purchased an L3430 with two rear remotes and I would highly recommend at least one remote as a minimum. I use a rear remote to operate a hydraulic grapple attached to the front loader (hoses to the front with quick connects at the attachment) and plan on using the second remote for a hydraulic top link (next month's budget, I hope). I plan to get a "tilt" cylinder and add a cylinder to a scraper blade to adjust the blade angle. There are several options for adding and controlling remote hydraulic outlets (joy sticks, diverter valves, etc.) but I think the factory remote installation will serve me well. Remote hydraulics provide for a large number of options to fully utilize the tractor /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif.

_RaT_ · Apr 13, 2004

Dwight, this has been addressed so many times but, I think it is important enough to always repeat. Having a hydraulic setup on the rear end to me (as well as many others) makes a tractor so much more functional. For folks who don't have it, they don't know what their missing until they see a neighbor, etc., with it. Having at least one set of hydraulic couplers tied to a valve to control anything from a top link to a boxscrapper with rippers has numerous advantages. Rather then limit yourself to a single valve, why not spend just a few more dollars on three. You don't need to even add any hoses or quick disconnects. I use all three of mine. Two all the time. If you want the ultimate in functionality, get at least a hydraulic top link. Trust me, it will be indespensible.

Secretec · Apr 13, 2004

Get at least two, Get at least two, Did I mention, get at least two.

texbaylea · Apr 13, 2004

This opens up a line of discussion I was planning a post on. Now that I know how big a bite Uncle Sam is taking I am going ahead with the purchase of an L3130 with FEL + QA. I had already planned to get a rear remote. I plan to add a grapple to the bucket and later get a tree shear to use of the FEL. I do not like the idea of hoses draped over everything to get from the rear to the front. Where can I get hard lines that would tee from the rear connectors to the front of the drivers deck and also to add to the FEL back to front? I would of course use hoses and QDs for interconnects. This would be more expensive but it is something I will be using for the life of the tractor. Is any of this kitted?

tosh · Apr 13, 2004

I ended up ordering a single remote for my 4330. Do you have pictures of your Grapple? I need to haul and stack some logs.

MadReferee · Apr 13, 2004

I doubt that any type of tubing to do what you want could be purchased "pre-kitted". Your best bet is to locate a local hydraulic shop and have then custom fit tubing to the L3130. They would have the benders and fittings necessary to do what you want and to also make sure you plumbed it correctly.

texbaylea · Apr 13, 2004

tosh - I haven't purchased the grapple yet. I am still looking at the offerings on the internet. I don't trust my welding enough to build my own. Planned to get the tractor and start using it awhile before I add such things as a tooth bar, grapple and then the tree shear, also a hydraulic top link. May have to add a second and/or third remote.

uhmgawa · Apr 13, 2004

( Get at least two, Get at least two, Did I mention, get at least two.
)

A more flexible approach would to use a sectional valve and get as
many work sections as you predict you'll need for the short term.
If you want/need additional valves you can add such for the cost of
an additional work section and a longer set of bolts. This same
approach also allows you to change valve options (eg: motor valve,
4th position float, etc..) for only the cost of the section you wish to
add/update. Not to mention greatly simplifying the task of
plumbing.

uhmgawa · Apr 13, 2004

( I do not like the idea of hoses draped over everything to get from the rear to the front. Where can I get hard lines that would tee from the rear connectors to the front of the drivers deck and also to add to the FEL back to front? )

This approach of running hoses (or hard lines) back/front starts to get
less attractive if you decide later you'd like to do so with additional
feeds. I decided to solve this by putting valves both up front and in
back. This both minimizes total plumbing and puts the valves exactly
where they will be used.