Do I really need the tail wheel on my BH?

[Ford960]

Greetings All,
I picked up a used Bush Hog Model 305 cutter the other day and it is missing the tail wheel fork and shaft. I was going to use the wheel off my Squealer but the shaft is about 1/2" smaller diameter than the 305.
I can build a new fork but I would like to get a couple of lots mowed and think that I can do this without the tailwheel since I'm cutting brush and saplings. In fact I'm thinking of taking the whole tailwheel bracket off to give me more clearance working around the trees.

Anyone see any problems with not using the tailwheel?

 

[Farmwithjunk]

I would imagine you COULD use it like it is, but I'd sure rather have that tailwheel in place. One, you'll be supporting all the weight of the mower ALL THE TIME from the three-point hitch. Another issue would be the tail end of the mower wanting to "scalp" if the tractors front wheels go over any sort of raised bump.

I mow several acres of rocky hillside with a mower MUCH heavier than that one. I need to carry the mower off the tailwheel's support while doing such. It requires the front of the tractor to be weighted enough so that I don't get too much "bounce".

 

[normde2001]

Should be ok for brush cutting or mowing on flat ground; however, if terrain has dips and rises you will get a very ragged cut as the mower can't follow the terrain. You might also be doing a lot of "wheelies".

 

[Bird]

I'm inclined to think this is one of those situations in which you can do it, but you ain't gonna like it. I'd get a tail wheel of some kind if it were me.

 

[Soundguy]

The tail wheel is there to take some weight off the tractor.. it will be like you are running around with the mower always lifted. I imagine uneven ground will have an uneven cut.

I think I'd try to sleave the old shaft to make the other tail wheel work.. or otherwise make a new tailwheel out of an appropriate shaft/pipe and then add some flats to make the forks.. etc..

Soundguy

 

[Ford960]

Well that didn't take long for replies, I must not be the only one sitting watching it rain.

Yes this mower is quite a bit heavier than my Squealer and I may load the front tires for more weight. I don't care about scalping as this is a real rough cut just to knock down the brush so people can see the entire lots from the comfort of their vehicle or to be able to walk to the back and see it up close if really interested in buying.

Cutting the lots also makes them look so much bigger and on some the result is that a new owner can bring their camper to place on the lot with very little work. They can then continue to clear the lot while enjoying the great outdoors. It's a big selling point. I've worked out a deal that the lots that I mow are compensated against the money that I owe on my lot. Right now I've paid down a year off my lot. There are 4 to do now and another 4 available coming on Friday. The lots average 60' X 100' with most being smaller and a few with holes and mounds. It takes me about 90 minutes to clear a lot and I will do 3 a day until the heat gets the best of me.

Plus, I pick up a few to do for cash which helps pay for gas and repairs. I also do a little box blading but the owner must have a soil and erosion permit for that work. I'm not responsible for the permit but I warn the owner that they aren't allowed to break more than 100 square feet of dirt without it.

Of course this will slow down somewhat come winter and the brush dies off but for now there are several hundreds of lots available and others that are being resold and never cleared. The real gravy is lots that I've already done and not sold that will need to be mowed again in a few months.

Ya'll stay dry.

 

[Ford960]

The tail wheel is there to take some weight off the tractor.. it will be like you are running around with the mower always lifted. I imagine uneven ground will have an uneven cut.

I think I'd try to sleave the old shaft to make the other tail wheel work.. or otherwise make a new tailwheel out of an appropriate shaft/pipe and then add some flats to make the forks.. etc..

Soundguy

Since I'm getting real bored sitting around I might just go out and rumage around and see what I can come up with. I might have a piece of round stock that I can chuck in the lathe and turn to the correct diameter and some flat stock for the fork. I got 2 wheels and hubs with the mower but the hubs are completely eat out and I may just use the wheel off my squealer. I hate to scrounge too many parts off the squealer in case I need it for a back up in a pinch.

 

[Ford960]

I'm inclined to think this is one of those situations in which you can do it, but you ain't gonna like it. I'd get a tail wheel of some kind if it were me.

Ya, your probably right as I can see that it's going to be more work with the hand on the 3pt lever to keep the mower in position.

Another thing that I'm thinking about is that the top link is rigid on the 305 where the squealer has a chain to allow the mower to lift up in the rear...think that I'll change that too.

 

[Soundguy]

A piece of flat stock bent into a U shape and a few holes will add a felxible link tot he toplink connection point. Check out a KK pdf rotary mower manual for an idea how to build one ( KK PDF is a free download ).

Soundguy

 

[wrenchturner]

I was browsing posts when I noticed the picture of your bushhog. Looks a lot like mine, yours just has more paint. Anyway, I got mine with a tractor I bought several years ago. I probably only used it a total of 10 hours. Last week I decided to patch it up. Turned it over in the shop and low and behold the blades were on backwards. When removing the blades, I was shocked to find one of the blade bolt nut was so loose I removed it with my fingers. It was just a matter of time before the blade would have come off and possibly killing someone. Check your blades and bolts. This is a heavy built bushhog.