Rear Blade Do I need a box blade, rear blade or what?

[LuckyJack]

Had a new barn build last fall. Preconstruction grading by contractor was OK, but this winter's rains indicate I need to do some further work. Basically, I need to increase the slope all around the barn to improve drainage away from the structure. I could also stand to do some grading to channel runoff from where it goes now to where I'd like it to go. I don't need large drainage ditches, just some shallow channels to move water where desired.

I originally thought a rear blade was the tool, as it seems to me that I need to be able to set one side low so that when dragged it will naturally create the slopes I need. I believe some rear blades have this capability.

I didn't think box blades can be set-up this way ie. one side low to dig in while other side pretty much at grade level.

But reading posts here sounds like the box blade can do a lot, so now I'm not so sure which would be best for what I want to do.

I have a Branson 4520 with FEL.

Thanks.

 

[Bird]

The box blade can be set lower on one end simply with the adjustment on the tractor; i.e., adjust one lower link lower than the other. If you have hydraulic top 'n tilt, then it becomes very easy. But of course the box blade does not spill the spoils off one end as a straight blade does.

 

[RalphVa]

You tilt the blades, either rear or box, by adjusting the adjustable side of the 3ph. It's the adjustment you normally screw with to level attachments. You also use it on blades to tilt them.

Ralph

 

[JerryG]

Which one that does best has a lot to do with the type of soil that you have. If it is soil that packs hard and or has a lot of rocks then a box with rippers would be the best pick. If your soil is high in sand or is a rich loam then a regular rear blade would work fine.

 

[3RRL]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( But of course the box blade does not spill the spoils off one end as a straight blade does.)</font>

That's true when grading a fairly level area. The boxblade will tend to move the dirt along and the blade will let the dirt flow to the side.

However, I just recently tilted the heck out of my boxblade to cut some gutters in my dirt road and in doing so found out it acts exactly as a rear blade that's tilted...spilling the dirt to one side instead of filling up the box. This was becasue the one end of the boxblade was so high up. The dirt spilled out faster where the blade was in the air... than it could accumulate into the box.

 

[dsgsr]

If I could only buy one implement to do many jobs for grading and didn't need to tare up the ground, just grade it I would buy what I have, the Landpride Landscape rake with Gage wheels and blade. You can grade with the rake, or the blade and the blade has sides you can put on that act like a box blade holding the material and allowing it to fall in the low spots like a box blade. I have the 35 series that allows you to off set the blade or rake and tilt and angle all at the same time. It's a good all around tool. The only thing you can't do is busting up ground the way scarifies on a box blade can do.

David