DK65 1730 loader not curling

RedDog · Oct 21, 2006

I do not have anything on the loader except for the quick attach plate. Loader will go up and down fine. It will dump fine, but curl kinda slow, plus when it finally curls all the way, it will not hold it. As soon as I take my hand off of the joystick, it will start to lose curl and fall all the way down to the dump position.

Dealers or any owners where would you look first? I'm thinking the problem could be in the (diverter block, or whatever it is called) on top of the fuel tank behind the left rear tire.

Any ideas????

Thanks, RedDog

RedDog · Oct 22, 2006

Ok I think I've eliminated that (valve body block) on top of the fuel tank.

I originally thought the dump was working, but it is not. So it is both the curl/dump. Up and down cylinders are fine.

I believe the problem to be: one of the curl/dump cylinders leaking internally, or the (black box) on the loader frame up front with hydraulic lines running into it.

Now how to decide if it is one of the cylinders or the black box?????

I may have to give my dealer a call.

RedDog

albmn10 · Oct 22, 2006

Hello Reddog, I had a similar problem in the past, id check all your quick couplers for a good connection. They may look together but your curl connect is probably not seated properly.. Worth checking..

RedDog · Oct 22, 2006

albmn10 said:
Hello Reddog, I had a similar problem in the past, id check all your quick couplers for a good connection. They may look together but your curl connect is probably not seated properly.. Worth checking..

Thanks Albmn, but I've already went through that. They are all good to go.

IH3444 · Oct 23, 2006

There were some very active threads on these 1595 loaders a few years back, with complaints about the roll back angle, and roll back lack of power. Kioti came out with the upgrade (engineering fix) kit. I believe it was about $800, plus shipping.

BTI · Oct 23, 2006

His loader is experiencing a complete rollback power loss.
The kit for the 1595 was to give it more.

BTI

rback33 · Oct 23, 2006

It sounds like you may have damaged one or both of your tilt cylinder seals. One thing you might do if you have not already is switch the lift and curl circuits on the loader valve just to make sure the problem isn' the valve. BTW, I don't believe it can be the relief valve on the crosstube.

RedDog · Oct 23, 2006

IH3444,
Thanks, but I do not have a roll back angle problem.

Rback33,
I've already eliminated the tractor valve body, and the loader valve. My problem happened very quick. It worked good and then within about a half hours time, it quit curling and dumping. I would think if it were a cylinder it would happen slowly, not all of the sudden.

I belive it is something to do with the self-leveling feature on my loader.

BTI (who is my dealer) will get me through it!!!

RedDog · Oct 28, 2006

rback33 said:
It sounds like you may have damaged one or both of your tilt cylinder seals. One thing you might do if you have not already is switch the lift and curl circuits on the loader valve just to make sure the problem isn' the valve. BTW, I don't believe it can be the relief valve on the crosstube.

rback33 you may be on to something.

I disconnected the 4 hydraulic hoses going into the (relief valve, I guess that is what it is called. That is what you are calling it). Then I took the two nuts off holding the valve to the loader tube and removed the Cross relief valve.

I took the plug out and looked inside. The seals on the plug looked ok. Still trying to figure out exactly what this does.

I did not mess with the bottom plug. I put it back together and onto the tractor. Same results.

I decided to reverse the hose hookup to the relief valve. Same results.

Next step I disconnected the 2 hoses going to the right cylinder. Started the tractor and it CURLED!! Curled and held it,,,, it did not go down.

I believe I need to rebuild the right cylinder. I don't really want to use a chisel to get at the internals of the cylinder, so I guess I will be buying a new wrench or borrowing one,, (if brother has one).

RedDog

rback33 · Oct 30, 2006

Sounds like you have it nailed down. Have you changed you Hyd fluid lately? You may want to service the Hyd. system to make sure whatever contaminant damaged the seals is removed.

That valve on the crosstube is what relieves the pressure in the self-leveling mechanism allowing it to work with out self-destructing at the ends of the cycles. If you did not have the valve and you tried to raise the bucket while rolled out against the dump stops (No more travel for the bucket while leveling), pressure would build up until part of your loader blew apart. The valve redirects the flow when the pressure reaches a certain point. I've seen what happens when the pressure gets too high and things start to break... it can be kinda cool depending on where u are standing...

RedDog · Oct 30, 2006

No I have not changed the Hydraulic fluid lately. It is due at 600 hours to be changed. I will probably change it now since I have the cylinder off.

Do you work at the place that makes the loaders for Kioti???

Still have to purchase my spanner wrench.

Thanks, RedDog

RedDog · Nov 2, 2006

I'm hoping NAPA will have my spanner wrench here before the weekend. I will then start "digging" into the cylinder.

RedDog

RedDog · Nov 11, 2006

I received my spanner wrench and it turns the inside of the cylinder very well. Now if I can figure out how it comes apart. It seems as if the little metal clip on top of the cylinder has something to do with taking the cylinder apart.

Sooner or later I'll get it figured out.

RedDog

RedDog · Dec 7, 2006

Been busy doing other stuff, but finally got the cylinder apart. As expected one of the seals was bad.

I've purchased some new seals and should have it back together by weeks end!!

I have a picture of the seal.

RedDog

IslandTractor · Dec 8, 2006

Glad to see your detective work paid off. Sounds like you'll be curling and dumping again soon.

RedDog · Dec 10, 2006

IslandTractor said:
Glad to see your detective work paid off. Sounds like you'll be curling and dumping again soon.

Put cylinder together today. They (the hydraulic store) didn't not have an exact size seal, so I bought the one that was slightly larger. I sanded it down slightly (store said that a lot of people do this).

So far so good!! Loader is curling and holding its position.

Total cost of repair was just under $8.00. Not to bad for my first time taking a cylinder apart.

RedDog

VictorW · Dec 10, 2006

An $8.00 repair sounds great and you learned how to repair your own cylinder. Not that I'm wishing any of my cylinders to go bad, but I have never had one apart. I've rebuilt Hydraulic pumps and with your pictures and explanation, I'll tackle mine if the time comes. Thanks

RedDog · Dec 10, 2006

VictorW said:
An $8.00 repair sounds great and you learned how to repair your own cylinder. Not that I'm wishing any of my cylinders to go bad, but I have never had one apart. I've rebuilt Hydraulic pumps and with your pictures and explanation, I'll tackle mine if the time comes. Thanks

It wasn't bad at all once I saw how the metal "ring" comes out. I took it to a friend of mine who does cylinders. He got it out pretty quick while I held the cylinder.

Once the ring was out he shot air through one of the hoses that I still had attached to the cylinder. He said a lot of times this will push the piston out of the cylinder. Unfortunately my one seal was very bad and you could hear the air going past the seal and not forcing the piston out.

We then went with "hammering" it out. It came out pretty easy, and you could immediately see the bad seal.

The spanner wrench helps a great deal with getting the metal ring out, and putting it back in.

RedDog