DK40 SE no start, no display, no lights, etc

[tophawk]

Hello I am new to the forum so excuse me if I missed a previous thread on my issue.

Let me start with saying I love my 2007 Kioti DK40SE. It has until now only had to have a ignition switch and battery change (plus of course regular maintenance of oils, and fluids) since I bought it brand. it has about 400 hr on it now. A few weeks ago I had a starting issue where it would not start. Thinking the battery was dead because I had a display but no start I took it off to charge it and found out it had a full charge. I reinstalled the battery ( cleaning the terminals too) and it ran like a champ being started daily until a few days ago when my wife went to start it and it didn't. So I told her check the battery and all connections. Well she was getting a display and then slowly everything quit... no start, no display, no clicks, no lights -headlights, turn signals, hazards. I ordered a new ignition switch (even though last time I replaced the switch it was just because it was having issues with staying running because switch innards were loose). because it seemed likely candidate for all to fail. Well that was not it. Soooo... I am requesting help and knowledge since I have no service manual or schematics.

Here is what I have done. Replaced the ignition switch; cleaned all electric contacts or disconnected plugs and reinserted them; Swapped the two relays; disconnected/ reconnected display unit in engine compartment; replaced battery; cleaned and checked fuses next to parking brake; realized that if I have the ignition off I get horn to "weakly and momentarily" honk and that I get a buzz when I try turn signals or hazard on but can not seem to figure out where it is buzzing (sounds like behind the display console.

I know this is a big complicated issue so ANY ideas I am up for. I need this running ASAP and the nearest dealer is 200 miles away.
thanks in advance.

B

 

[LS Tractor Owner]

You said you cleaned the contacts, but did you take the grounds off the frame, clean, and reconnect?
Grounds are notorious for becoming corroded. The ground wire itself (under the insulation) could be bad too.
You could try to use a "jumper" for the ground to see if it makes any difference.

Is it a new battery? Sometimes they are 'bad' and not taking a full charge. Might try to load test it and put it on a charger..... might help....

Good luck, keep us posted.

 

[LittleBill21]

take a volt meter and start checking till you don't find voltage

 

[tophawk]

You said you cleaned the contacts, but did you take the grounds off the frame, clean, and reconnect?
Grounds are notorious for becoming corroded. The ground wire itself (under the insulation) could be bad too.
You could try to use a "jumper" for the ground to see if it makes any difference.

Is it a new battery? Sometimes they are 'bad' and not taking a full charge. Might try to load test it and put it on a charger..... might help....

Good luck, keep us posted.

 

[tophawk]

I took the battery from my diesel truck (barely fit in so large) which I tested and charged just incase. load tested and it was good. Didn't do the grounds for corrosion except the battery cabling and the relays under hood mounts (just in case since I dont have schematics to show how they work). I will look for other grounds but it has to be something that connects everything to the battery/ electric system.

 

[tophawk]

take a volt meter and start checking till you don't find voltage

I did it for the start system before but I will check at fuse block and recheck all the way to starter again just incase I missed something.

 

[tophawk]

unbelievably it started raining in the Nevada desert again today so my voltage checks and ground checks will have to wait for now. I will post tomorrow to let you know how that all goes along with putting the new starter I ordered before it went completely dead. Who knows the starter could be the drain when the key is turned on. thank you so much for the help and input.

 

[LittleBill21]

did you check the ground that goes to the frame from the battery?

 

[LittleBill21]

unbelievably it started raining in the Nevada desert again today so my voltage checks and ground checks will have to wait for now. I will post tomorrow to let you know how that all goes along with putting the new starter I ordered before it went completely dead. Who knows the starter could be the drain when the key is turned on. thank you so much for the help and input.

starters don't cause drain, you would hear the solenoid buzzing if it was engaging, I can also guarantee you the starter is not your issue.

 

[tophawk]

okay, I changed starter and of course that was not issue. There is 10v at starter not 12v. I also have no or very little voltage at the fuses. The fusible links are good. All grounds and relays (in engine and under dash) have been disconnected and reconnected. I am now in dire need of a wiring diagram to chase the voltage from battery to fuseblock (there must be something in between) I am wondering what the twin relay actually does because that sounds interesting. so if anyone has a link to the DK40SE wiring diagrams or what the twin relay (actually what all relays) do I would be very grateful.

 

[tophawk]

did you check the ground that goes to the frame from the battery?

yes I did.

 

[tophawk]

BTW... I only found the fusible link (actually a fuse) on the wiring harness near the starter (its yellow). If there are more please let me know with location. Thank you

 

[LittleBill21]

since we are in the dark here, does the main battery wiring, go straight to the starter, then another cable off the starter to the fuse panel, or are there different wires?

you should be able to find this pretty easy, its a major drop in voltage

 

[tophawk]

main wire goes to starter and then there is another positive wire that goes off the starter and I take it goes to the fuse panel.

It looks like that second wire only has only the slow blow 60A fuse in it according to the ex 35-50 manual which is posted in this site on page 483. but the fuse is good so the voltage drop is not making sense to me. I am going to tear the wire bundle apart to see if there is some damage that is inside but it looks perfect.

 

[LittleBill21]

your main wire has a issue, take a jumper cable, and jump from the battery to the starter stud, and see if the voltage goes back up, and you get your lights back.

 

[tophawk]

Well folks my tractor is fixed. Thank you all for your input. It seems that a ground that had a connector to it right by the ground for the battery was barely together so I just removed the connector and spliced it together and shrink wrapped it. Also I did clean the connection to the wire coming off the starter to the fuseblock and replaced the 60a slow blow fuse since I found a new one I had for my truck. One or all of these led to the complete shutdown off the electrical systems. Hopefully this doesn't happen to someone else but if it does at least we have a thread for it.

Maybe I can try to keep updated on the issues others have and be able to help them like I was helped. Thanks again all.

 

[thclimer]

Thanks for letting us know how you fixed it.