DIY Ripper ideas needed.

[MountainBuck]

Earlier this year I needed to dig a small trench to bury some drain line. It was more than I wanted to shovel so I built this small ripper. I intended it to be a "quick and dirty" job but as it goes so often, I liked the results so well that I want to rebuild the device Steve Austin style (bionic not Stone Cold just to be clear).

Because I don't have any top link attached at all, I actually expected to bottom to bend backwards and it did bend a little after 50' of use but not like I expected. The vertical rectangular tube dented inwards at the contact points. I also expected the pin to break but it really was undamaged because all of the pressure was on the top and bottom contact points where I sleeved the two tubes together.

So onto the rebuild.

First, I've got an identical 1"x2" replacement tube for the vertical part that has much more wall thickness.

Next, I'm replacing the pin that holds the two parts together with a 5/8" grade 8 bolt.

I'm thinking of welding a couple of "ears" (bionic?) to the top of the vertical tube so I can attach the top link to it. This will change the forces so that it will be on the 5/8" pivot bolt and at the top link. The force should be pushing into the top link.

So my question that I'm hanging out here is, this feels like it needs some type of spring involved. I have a couple of really stout compression springs that I could attach to the top link. But maybe not.

I'm entertaining all thoughts and suggestions.

Btw, the reason I don't solidly attach the ripper to the draw bar is because my tractor articulates in the middle which means the back can sway left and right more than typical. The cable allows it to move around a bit.

This will only be used for such things as occasionally burying cable or drainage or breaking up clay and things of that nature.

 

[CalG]

Here is what I built for a Cat 0 DIY for the Bolens tractor.

2 inch receiver hitch. The ripper tooth notches registers on fixing bolts to provide a range of depths.

The ripper is easily purchased, solid stock with the chisel tooth.

 

[dstig1]

Do what Cal did...

 

[nyone]

Earlier this year I needed to dig a small trench to bury some drain line. It was more than I wanted to shovel so I built this small ripper. I intended it to be a "quick and dirty" job but as it goes so often, I liked the results so well that I want to rebuild the device Steve Austin style (bionic not Stone Cold just to be clear).

Because I don't have any top link attached at all, I actually expected to bottom to bend backwards and it did bend a little after 50' of use but not like I expected. The vertical rectangular tube dented inwards at the contact points. I also expected the pin to break but it really was undamaged because all of the pressure was on the top and bottom contact points where I sleeved the two tubes together.

So onto the rebuild.

First, I've got an identical 1"x2" replacement tube for the vertical part that has much more wall thickness.

Next, I'm replacing the pin that holds the two parts together with a 5/8" grade 8 bolt.

I'm thinking of welding a couple of "ears" (bionic?) to the top of the vertical tube so I can attach the top link to it. This will change the forces so that it will be on the 5/8" pivot bolt and at the top link. The force should be pushing into the top link.

So my question that I'm hanging out here is, this feels like it needs some type of spring involved. I have a couple of really stout compression springs that I could attach to the top link. But maybe not.

I'm entertaining all thoughts and suggestions.

Btw, the reason I don't solidly attach the ripper to the draw bar is because my tractor articulates in the middle which means the back can sway left and right more than typical. The cable allows it to move around a bit.

This will only be used for such things as occasionally burying cable or drainage or breaking up clay and things of that nature.

This looks really weak right where your gold pin is. It also alreaty looks bent.

 

[chim]

Pretty unbelievable that the vertical tube hasn't folded. It looks like it should just bounce along on the surface without some sort of chisel end on an angle to pull it into the soil.

 

[WinterDeere]

Too bad it's drain line. For smaller line (e.g. irrigation and wiring), I have a process that direct-buries the line with no digging other than a starting and ending hole for making the connections. Made from a subsoiler and piece of conduit, total investment less than $100 and way less 1 hour.

 

[alinarizwan]

If you're looking to build a DIY ripper, you could repurpose an old jigsaw or angle grinder with a custom blade attachment. Just make sure to add a sturdy base and handle for control. Safety is key, so wear proper gear and test it carefully before full use.