Is there such a thing as a manual diverter valve? I have 7ft plow for my loader that I run hoses back to my 3rd SCV. I just picked up a 3 pt snowblower with a hydraulic chute I want to be able to use both without switching hoses all the time. So does anyone make one? I've got a 2010, 3320 PRT open station. Thanks in advance
Diverter valve
- Thread starter Brown3320
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kennyd
Advertiser
6sunset6
Veteran Member
- Joined
- May 6, 2007
- Messages
- 1,055
- Location
- SE NY
- Tractor
- NH TC34DA 34HP HST, 2 rear remotes, front diverter, loaded R4's
Absolutely I did exactly that for the same reasons.
The rear disconnects you can see in one picture . Same valve as ref above I think. The front I don't remember what I did . I sold that tractor in 2007.
The rear disconnects you can see in one picture . Same valve as ref above I think. The front I don't remember what I did . I sold that tractor in 2007.
LD1
Epic Contributor
IF you plan on using the blower AND plow at the same time, I think it would get old having to shift a manual valve all the time. The electric diverters arent that expensive and can be wired to a momentary push button attached to the control lever of the remote. Want to angle the plow.....operate the remote. Want to rotate the blower chute.....operate the remote valve while pushing the button attached to said valve.
kennyd
Advertiser
^^^^^
THIS!
I'll add (actually just expand on what LD wrote) that it is far easier to mount the switch for an electric diverter within easy reach than it is a manual diverter valve.
zmansmac
Gold Member
For winter I have a front plow and a back blade. And recently wanted to add power angle to the back blade without adding another dedicated valve. A diverter valve was the answer. I originally thought about this manual one: 3/4" NPT 3 GPM PRINCE DOUBLE SELECTOR VALVE, but did not have a good place to mount it and minimize the hydraulic hose runs. So I went with this electric model (12 VDC 13.2 GPM SAE 8 SOLENOID DOUBLE SELECTOR VALVE) and it worked very well for me. Just mounted a waterproof toggle switch on the side of the dash.
In doing this mod I permanently run 2 hoses to the rear, terminating with a couple of QDs mounted on a bracket. This eliminated hoses that would have blocked right side egress. And I can now easily use those remotes for other things in the rear like a hydraulic top link. You can read more about this mod and see pics here: http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/hydraulics/370443-rear-remotes-budget.html
I agree with the other posters that electric is the way to go; much more versatility in placing the selector valve.
In doing this mod I permanently run 2 hoses to the rear, terminating with a couple of QDs mounted on a bracket. This eliminated hoses that would have blocked right side egress. And I can now easily use those remotes for other things in the rear like a hydraulic top link. You can read more about this mod and see pics here: http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/hydraulics/370443-rear-remotes-budget.html
I agree with the other posters that electric is the way to go; much more versatility in placing the selector valve.
Whatswrong
Gold Member
This thread couldn't have started at a better time my needs are exactly the same ,I probably need 2 .
The biggest question is if the extra $150.00 for solenoid valves and switches can be justified .
I need ports for frontend loader plus my 3pt hitch lift and lower as well as snow plow shoot.
The biggest question is if the extra $150.00 for solenoid valves and switches can be justified .
I need ports for frontend loader plus my 3pt hitch lift and lower as well as snow plow shoot.
Whatswrong
Gold Member
Hoofda ,
8 hoses ,24 fittings minimum ,maybe 4 female q-couplers ,2 diverter valves ; close to $500.00
Will post a couple pictures when it is finished.
8 hoses ,24 fittings minimum ,maybe 4 female q-couplers ,2 diverter valves ; close to $500.00
Will post a couple pictures when it is finished.
