3-Point Hitch Ditching and levelling

[mahindraweary]

I bought a grader blade at TSC. It is pretty much useless. The old one that I mistakenly let go with my old Ford 3000, had two adjustments. One for right and left and one for up and down angle. This one just has the right and left. The angle adjustment on my Mahindra 4025 leaves a lot to be desired as it only allows for a very slight angle. Not enough to dig a trench. I ran my middle buster plow first and then the dang blade won't even go deep enough to clean the resulting trench out. Is there something I'm missing here or is that just the way it's going to be?

JC Cooper

 

[bcp]

I see on CL lots of blades with no tilt adjustment for sale for long times. Fully adjustable blades aren't advertised for long, especially if they also have swing.

Bruce

 

[RedNeckRacin]

Those light weight blades are almost useless, however playing with the toplink adjustment might get you some improvement since the ground is already broken up.

 

[mahindraweary]

I've tried the top link and everything except letting the air out of the tires on one side and I ain't going through that again.

JC Cooper

 

[Browneyesvictim]

I've been borrowing my brothers old scraper blade (unknown brand). It's just got angle adjustment (right/left) like you speak of. I drug it around with my little Max for a few jobs here and there. I was just using the adjustable lift link arm (turnbuckle style) that is only on the RH side and is a PITA to adjust. Then when I returned it, I noticed his tractor (old Ford 8N) has a "leveling box" on that same side for lift link arm. This is basically a knuckle with a 90' pinion and a crank arm. By golly The next time I needed to use the blade, I borrowed it also off his tractor to see if it would fit! Sure did!!!

The moral of my story, is maybe you can find a leveling box to replace your lift link to make it a bit easier.

 

[jeff9366]

I ran my middle buster plow first but the blade won't go deep enough to clean the trench out.

Is there something I'm missing here or is that just the way it's going to be?

Adjust the Three Point Hitch: Move the pin on the left side and right side Lifting Rod stirrups from the top/default hole to the lower hole and the Middlebuster will go 4" to 5" deeper. Note how much the right Lower Link has lowered in Photo #2, relative to Photo #1.

Do not pound on the pins. Put in slack with hydraulic control and remove left pin. Adjust Lifting Rod screw on right side and remove right pin. Lightly grease pins before replacing. I use anti-seize compound.

On my Kubota, the left rod has three adjustment holes, so you can position implements with some tilt provided by the pin adjustment, if desired. Photo #3.


How deep, how broad, do you want to trench?


Photos: Kubota L3560

 

[mahindraweary]

That's what my ford 3000 had. I could almost make a blade stand on its head. I'm thinking about getting one for Matilda(that's my mahindra's name).

After I finished 70 feet of 24 inch deep trench I remembered something. Take the blade off a middle buster and you have a wonderful trencher.

 

[Mad Mac]

Cousin Dave mounted the box blade at an angle like that on our 5555 to do some levelling.

This is off topic but related to 3-pt hitch adjustments. I noticed that our brush cutter sags toward the downhill side when traversing a slope which got me to thinking. Can a brush cutter be mounted at an angle to get closer to fences and stuff on one side. (Our brush cutter has one tail wheel on a caster.)

 

[LD1]

You can adjust your 3PH as others mentioned to get some pretty good angle. Use the different holes on the drop links, adjust the one thats adjustable, and play with the toplink with the blade angled. A short toplink will raise the trailing edge of the blade when angled, and make the front cut deeper. Lengthening it will have the opposite result in that the trailing edge will be lower than the front.

But nothing is gonna change the fact that the blade just aint made to do what you want to do. Those lightweight blades are really only made for moving snow, sand, loose gravel, or any other loosened material. They aint made to cut in and do real dirt work. And if they did bite in, you would probably bend the crap out of the blade with your 5000#+ 4wd tractor.

You want a real blade for dirt work, look for one thats at least 90-100# per foot of cutting edge. IE: a 700# 7' blade. Not the 45# per ft stuff you get at TSC.

KK heavy duty blades are a decent all manual adjust blade that has tilt. And a nice cutting edge that digs in. 6' = 675#, 7' = 700#, 8' = 850#

Landpride 35 series blades 7' = 709# 8' = 745#

Either a good choice

 

[Navasot]

You need an algle/tilt.. they sliders will drive you crazy... we carry the MD Angle/Tilt that Mahindra has.. nice Aframe on them for a tractor like the 4025 that's got some weight to her