Different problem

[ERE]

For the past month or so, when I go to start the tractor, I warm the glo plugs then turn the key the rest of the way and nothing happens. turning the key off and immediately back on results in the engine cranking and normal start up. I've never had that kind of symptom. battery leads and ground are all tight. Battery voltage is ok, but that may not mean the battery isn't at it's end of life. It is over 5 years old. Voltage could just be ok until there is a load on it. I imagine that it isn't cranking very vigorously but that may not be true because it starts immediately, and it is hard to remember how it cranked years ago.

Anyhow, if anyone has a suggestion based on their experience, I welcome it.

 

[nvpliers]

I've done that when I had tractor in gear, and the safety overides wouldn't allow cranking, but that doesn't seem what is going on in your case.

One other episode that I experienced similar to what you describe occured on my zero turn....but it may provide a clue....is the wire that completes the circuit from the parking brake was loose, and sometimes made contact and allowed cranking, and other times...silence. Perhaps one of the safety wires from [seat maybe?] to some control item to complete the circuit is loose or frayed.

Just thought I'd throw that out in case it applied.

 

[Coyote machine]

Sounds like you already know what the problem is: nearly dead battery. If you have a volt meter attach it to the battery terminals and do the first crank routine and see what the meter drops to. I suspect that the glow plug use drains the surface charge and when you release the key and try again the battery still has enough juice to turn over the engine without the glow plugs draining the battery down to where it doesn't have enough juice to crank the engine. After all it is 5 years old.
The other thing to do is remove the batt and take it to any place that can do a load test on it. If it is marginal or fails replace it with an Interstate battery of the proper cranking amps and move on.:thumbsup:

 

[unhappykioti]

I would bet it's not your battery at all but rather the ignition switch. I have had some of the same symptoms, turn the key on nothing, turn off and on several times after spraying with electric contact cleaner I have power try to start no crank keep playing with switch finally cranks let go of key shuts off no contact eventually after playing with switch it will work. This seems to be an ongoing iritant I only have 230 hrs on my tractor, on my third switch. This one was replaced this spring. If it's dry outside after my last use it works fine but if it rains which it always does in western Washington The problem will crop up and yes I keep the plastic cap over the switch.

 

[Coyote machine]

It could be your switch which is giving you the symptoms, but as you said your battery is 5 years old and needs to be replaced if it fails a load test regardless of what else is going on electrically. If you replace it now it will save you from replacing it when it strands you in the cold or rain or some other less than ideal situation.

 

[unhappykioti]

My battery is 6 years old again my guess would be the switch.

 

[MotorSeven]

ERE, I ahd the same thing happen on both the CK30 & the DK40. The first time I initially thought the battery was just toast. When I went to pull it out I saw that the terminals had some mean nasty corrosion under the clamps. I cleaned them up and no more issues at all. So, my Dk is around 3 years old now and it happend.....no click no nothing after shutting down and trying to re-start a warm tractor. I cleaned the terminals and have no issues now.
Yes at 5 years your battery could be ready for replacement, but before you do that, really clean both the terminals and the inside of the clamps. Apply some dielectric grease & give that a whirl. My batteries in my D-max made it 7 years, but a trip to Manitoba in Jan did them in. If it had no tbeen for -38 degrees I bet they would still be chugging along.

 

[kco]

Good suggestion regarding corrosion.

You can easily eliminate the key as a problem by jumping it to another battery. If it works as usual the key and circuits are OK. But it still could be a dead battery or corrosion.

 

[DK35vince]

Many auto parts stores will do a cheap or free load test on the battery.
The original battery in my DK 35 is 10 years old and still going.

 

[ERE]

I've been out of town and unable to answer, but I think you guys have covered all of the probable causes. I think I'll start with corrosion and go on to getting the battery tested.

Thanks for all the replies.