Did my own 50 hr Service

   / Did my own 50 hr Service #1  

bill6

Silver Member
Joined
Aug 28, 2006
Messages
108
Location
Kennewick, WA
.....I am in the state of WA and have a new 3215 (gear). Some of you have teased me in the past because I enjoy keeping the tractor super clean, and hesitate to even use it, for fear of getting it dirty! I really enjoy doing maintenance! For 2 days, in anxious anticipation of this 50 hr service, the wife noticed I had sweaty palms. She thinks I am totally nuts. She gets really tired of hearing talk of "your stupid tractor". Anyway, on Christmas morning @ 5:15 I started my 50 hr service; it took me 5 hours to complete.

Preparation: I moved 2 cars from the workshop (30 x 40 with concrete floor). The shop was heated to 60 F. I laid down a drop cloth 12' by 12'. I had ready 2 large oil drain pans, 20 qts each; a roll of paper towels, air compressor & blow nozzle, purple shop rags, genuine Mahindra oil filter and hydraulic transm filter, the owner's manual, and various tools & metric wrenches.

Fluids: I spent some extra $ on these; not absolutely necessary, but I plan to keep the machine a long time: 2 (5 gallon) buckets of Chevron Synthetic all-weather THF. ($86.00 per bucket). 5 quarts of Mobil 1 synthetic oil, 5W-30 ($5.50 per quart)

Warm-up: I drove the tractor around (in the dark) at 4:50 am for about 10 minutes, warming the fluids. I lifted the FEL up and down many times to get the pump & cylinders circulating the fluid.

Procedure: First I set front tires to 40 psi and rear tires to 30. There are 2 engine oil pan drain plugs (17mm wrench) I removed them and also the oil filter. While the oil drained, I located and removed the 3 hydraulic oil drain plugs. (19mm wrench) Using the large drain pans, I estimate that about 26 qts of hyd fluid drained out. But the system is suppose to hold 33 qts. Where was the rest hiding? While that was draining (dripping) I serviced the fuel filter and water cup. Next, I removed and replaced the Hydraulic oil filter with a new one. Same with the engine oil filter. I installed them about as tight as I could get them by hand. Then I replaced all drain plugs and tightened to the torque specified in the manual.

Next, I removed the 3 drain plugs for the front axle (24mm wrench for the middle, and 14mm for the sides) After draining, I cleaned and replaced the drain plugs and filled the axle with the Chevron Synthetic THD (tractor hydraulic fluid) until it ran out the fill-level hole. Then I took a wetted purple shop rag and thoroughly wiped down the entire underside of tractor; it looks clean as new. (this way, you can detect any leaks) Then I filled the engine with 4.9 qts of oil, and the hydraulic system with about 26 qts of fluid. For this task, I just inserted a long funnell into the fill hole, stood up on the tractor deck, and poured in the fluid right from the 5-gallon bucket. It worked great! Next, I greased the FEL (12 grease points) and the 4 zerks under the tractor. Then I cleaned the air filter. Then I checked the battery electrolite level. Then I checked the torque of the tractor frame bolts and also the wheel lugs. Then I lubricated the 3-point hitch top & side link threads. Then I checked the engine coolant level. Then I checked the alternator belt free-play.

Next, I re-waxed and buffed the engine hood, fenders, ROPS, and removed the rubber deck mat, to wax the deck. Then I re-traced all my steps and checked off each item I had done, on a check-list. All done! Then I started the tractor and drove it for 5 minutes, then let it sit for 5 minutes. Then I checked all fluid levels to make sure, and looked for leaks.

DISCREPANCIES: I was somewhat displeased with the owner's manual. It appears to be NOT updated for the model 3215. For example, the manual says there are 5 hyd oil drain plugs, but the illustration only shows 3, and I could locate only 3. The manual says there are 2 front axle fill-level plugs, but there is only 1. The manual says to replace the hyd oil drain plugs with a seal washer, but no washers were present when removed. And finally, the manual, in one place, says to use 85w 140 gear oil in the front axle, and later says to use hydraulic oil.

Then, I spent the rest of Christmas day getting seat time. I dragged a 900 lb disc harrow around the 9 acre field; it really breaks up the clods nicely. Around 3:30 pm I took a brief break for Christmas dinner, then right back out to the tractor. The wife and all her relatives thought I was crazy to be out in the cold, sitting on that red machine. Oh well.............
 
   / Did my own 50 hr Service #2  
Great Job, I really dig that... you da man. :) :)
I'll do exactly the same when I get a shiny new beast probably in green flavor.:D :D

My wife also gives me the "Agnes" looks when I talk about my old tractor. LOL:eek:
 
Last edited:
   / Did my own 50 hr Service #3  
I think you wasted your money on replacing the hydro fluid at 50 hrs. My dealership doesn't do it. They say it is necessary to just change the filters. The manual for the 2615 specifies replacement of hydro fluid at 200 hours.

How much dirt, and or metal filings, if any, was in your drain pan? What was the condition of the old oil? If it were really critical to change at 50 hours, why not do it every 50, not every 200 hours?

Just wondering?
 
   / Did my own 50 hr Service
  • Thread Starter
#4  
Hi Aching; The hyd fluid was very clean, no metal shavings. Same with the engine oil. The reason for changing the fluid was to quickly get the really "good stuff" (Chevron Synthetic) into the system. And, I do NOT know what type or brand of hyd fluid was originally in there. Winter is a good time to take advantage of this. Already, I can actually tell the difference: the FEL and implements move up & down a little quicker. And, the hyd cylinders, etc operate a bit quieter.

I probably did waste some $$, but I feel good about it; and on a cold morning (today) things seem to warm up quicker.
 
   / Did my own 50 hr Service #5  
bill6 said:
Hi Aching; The hyd fluid was very clean, no metal shavings. Same with the engine oil. The reason for changing the fluid was to quickly get the really "good stuff" (Chevron Synthetic) into the system. And, I do NOT know what type or brand of hyd fluid was originally in there. Winter is a good time to take advantage of this. Already, I can actually tell the difference: the FEL and implements move up & down a little quicker. And, the hyd cylinders, etc operate a bit quieter.

I probably did waste some $$, but I feel good about it; and on a cold morning (today) things seem to warm up quicker.

Bill,

What was your total cost for materials? Just wondering my dealer said my 50 hour would cost about $300.00 so I am trying to determine how much I will save and is it worth it. I know you probably get better oils doing it yourself.

Don

Don
 
   / Did my own 50 hr Service
  • Thread Starter
#6  
Hi Don; my cost for materials was $238.00 (I subtracted $30.00 from actual cost because I have left over hyd fluid for next time). If using only "standard" or regular (non-synthetic) fluids, I would have only spent half as much.

Your dealer said "about" $300.00. What does that mean? Maybe $340.00 plus tractor transportation? And that likely does not include all the stuff I did. On the 200 hr service, when he changes the hyd fluid, how much will he charge then?

If equipped and inclined, I strongly recommend doing service yourself. It's a great way to KNOW your machine. It really makes ownership more enjoyable. You can take your time and clean things as you go.
 
   / Did my own 50 hr Service #7  
I think you did good changing everything at 50 hrs. My dealer says it is a good idea to get all the break in crud, if there is any, out at 50 hrs. I agree, just my opinion, but I would do it again. The money in new oil and filters is a small price to pay for peace of mind you get knowing there is nothing in there grinding away at those shiney new gears, pumps, bearings and such. My 2015 also got everything done at 50hrs.. John
 
   / Did my own 50 hr Service
  • Thread Starter
#9  
Hi Brad; Yes, but rather than Armorall, I use the product in the green bottle made by Turtle Wax ....... Formula 2001. It is pretty good stuff and I use it on my Honda Insight when displaying at car shows. It makes the tractor mat look beautiful and protects it, keeping it soft and pliable. However, after lots of dirt and dust accumulate, it looks bad; so it takes regular maintenance.
 
   / Did my own 50 hr Service #10  
bill6 said:
Hi Brad; Yes, but rather than Armorall, I use the product in the green bottle made by Turtle Wax ....... Formula 2001. It is pretty good stuff and I use it on my Honda Insight when displaying at car shows. It makes the tractor mat look beautiful and protects it, keeping it soft and pliable. However, after lots of dirt and dust accumulate, it looks bad; so it takes regular maintenance.

I've got to admire you Bill! :) You treat that tractor better than I treat my girlfriend. I thought I was being good to my 4110, but that 3215 is getting the super-deluxe treatment and then some! Not sure I will ever be able to afford going full synthetic, but you have inspired me to work even harder. But do I understand correctly that you do not store the 3215 inside out of the weather? Could I be beating you on that one critical point? :D

I must add, however, that if I did all that tractor work on Christmas Day, I guarantee you that I'd have been shot dead as a doornail. :D

Dougster
 

Tractor & Equipment Auctions

2014 John Deere 700K LGP Dozer (RIDE AND DRIVE) (A50774)
2014 John Deere...
2006 FORD F-150XL TRITON EXT CAB TRUCK (A51243)
2006 FORD F-150XL...
Servis GYRO 84 Rotary Shredder (A50515)
Servis GYRO 84...
2014 International Durastar 4300 Terex BT2047 47FT 10 Ton Crane Truck (A50323)
2014 International...
JOHN DEERE MAX EMERGE 2 (6) ROW PLANTER (A51243)
JOHN DEERE MAX...
JOHN DEERE 6105D TRACTOR (A51243)
JOHN DEERE 6105D...
 
Top